Oil Carbonisation? How Bad?

[Matej]

Hello LexGuys

Do you consider these pictures as bad?

I was just checking fluid levels this evening, and I just opened the oil filler and got shocked. I always let profesionals to deal with car service, every oil change with brakes check and cleaning, rotating wheels, pressure etc. So I did not mess with the engine. But this looks scary and tomorrow I will call to that service. Now I 'd like to know from you guys, if you ever experienced this, what could cause this?

Car is Lexus ES300, 1995 yr with 235 000 km on clock.

Oil and filter change at previous owner was 8000 km, I continued with it.

I can't remember if it was like this when I got this car (I just think it wasn't).

What can I imagine right now is that at last oil change, I used 1 litre of non-API oil (just ACEA A3/B4) to 3.5 litres API SL (One thing is for sure, both oils were not marked as energy conserving, there is no such thing in European oil market??!).

I got the new oil and filter, but right now, I will not do anything, until I got the answer from local service, which I was visiting.

Guys, is it really bad just based on this filler?

[gbhrps]

Matej,

You definitely have some dirty oil in your engine, and have had for some time. Its very hard to tell how the previous owner treated the oil change schedule, but I'd bet it didn't see regular service before you bought the car. That aside, you need to double up on the oil and filter changes for the next several changes in order to get a lot of the gunk out. By that, I mean do your oil change every 3 - 4 thousand kms instead of the stated interval in your owner's manual for the next 4 changes.

You may find some posters here who will suggest putting some engine cleaners in with your oil to loosen up the gunk and flush it out. Check with a mechanic who you trust before you do. You may create a bigger problem than you'll fix.

As well, you really shouldn't be mixing different oils. Buy the best oil that is suggested in your owner's manual that you can afford and stick with it. That will give you the longest engine life. Good Luck!

[Matej]

Matej,

You definitely have some dirty oil in your engine, and have had for some time. Its very hard to tell how the previous owner treated the oil change schedule, but I'd bet it didn't see regular service before you bought the car. That aside, you need to double up on the oil and filter changes for the next several changes in order to get a lot of the gunk out. By that, I mean do your oil change every 3 - 4 thousand kms instead of the stated interval in your owner's manual for the next 4 changes.

You may find some posters here who will suggest putting some engine cleaners in with your oil to loosen up the gunk and flush it out. Check with a mechanic who you trust before you do. You may create a bigger problem than you'll fix.

As well, you really shouldn't be mixing different oils. Buy the best oil that is suggested in your owner's manual that you can afford and stick with it. That will give you the longest engine life. Good Luck!

Hi there,

I called the Toyota authorised servis, showed them those photos, they said that it is ok, since this is only filler, where oil is poured through, and when is not cleaned, it will stick there due to high temperature. They said that if this gunk or carbon is not on the dipstick and oil temperature sensor, than I should not fear.

Ofcourse I want now them to check on it better, they enrolled me on the 8th December. I'll let you know.

[camlex]

He is telling you correct. That is a sign of bad PCV. make sure you replace PCV, clean hoses(PCV)by spaying

TB cleaner.

[Matej]

He is telling you correct. That is a sign of bad PCV. make sure you replace PCV, clean hoses(PCV)by spaying

TB cleaner.

OK, did it, PCV and hose has TB inside, should I spray some to the opening in engine, where PCV is inserted?

[camlex]

not needed, also replace gromat (rubber peice which hold PCV on Valve cover).

Turn engine on, disconnect hose from pcv, you will hear lots of vacuum, spay TB cleaneer in vacuum

that will clean hose all the way to intake.

if nobody replace for longtime chances of Gromat break a part and falls inside, there is grill between valve and valve cover, nothing to worry.

Every 15,000 i do replace gromat and PCV. and my all cars oil caps looks brand new.

[Matej]

not needed, also replace gromat (rubber peice which hold PCV on Valve cover).

Turn engine on, disconnect hose from pcv, you will hear lots of vacuum, spay TB cleaneer in vacuum

that will clean hose all the way to intake.

if nobody replace for longtime chances of Gromat break a part and falls inside, there is grill between valve and valve cover, nothing to worry.

Every 15,000 i do replace gromat and PCV. and my all cars oil caps looks brand new.

Did it, it required a slight throttle pedal pushing during start, lot of smoke, I left it started for a minute, then went on the road, I felt a difference while pressing throttle pedal, it was smoother acceleration, and that buzzing noise in range cca 1800 - 2200 rpms was almost gone (still is there, but much less). Many thanks. Just the detail, I haven't had the hose disconnected during started engine. I just sprayed TB into hose, PCV and engine, connected them all, waited 15 minutes and then started engine. Was it sufficient? Or should I let the hose soak up TB while disconnected?

Many thanks.

That oil is normal, I also checked with another technician.

[homemechanic]

u can also look into shops that do engine flushes. make sure it's a machine flush, not just adding a bottle of solvent into the engine oil.

they have a machine that attaches the hose inplace of the oil filter and pushes HOT solvent thru to dissolve the carbon stuff. the stuff comes out of oil drain will look dirt black initially.