Matej

Same car here, 1995 ES300 This post is 6 years old. Still, how did you filled the differential oil? From under the car or from the top? Does this require to jack the car?

Still somehow it was sticking, well I sprayed carbon cleaner on the throttle valve during movement, until sticking's gone. Yes, George, you were right, now it's not sticking. But as you can see on the photos, it was just a superficial cleaning. The whole intake should be dismounted and cleaned, not just sprayed.

Here is what I did, lunacy... ES300 1995, 142 000 miles Since it was mine, 1st tranny fluid change (drain and refill cca 2.7 litres) was done in March 2009 - tranny filter change included, also with magnetic cleanup 2nd May 2009 3rd December 2009 Changed with Dexron III type - Shell Donax TX (not an advertisment) At 1st I was affraid, then it was and is much smoother, I felt a quicker response. Why 3 changes in one year? I could not figure out last time it was changed. Automatic transmission is a quantum mechanics for me, very difficult thing. I am mostly driving in city, rarely on highways, tranny A540E is called heavy duty, but like any auto tranny can be easily blowed up.

Compression check was done today (yes, Sunday), OK. Spark plugs a little grey, mechanic said they are perfect, don't need replacing. Cap and rotor perfect OK, mechanic said. So I took him for a ride. He felt that shaky idle in neutral, same as in drive. So he measured the resistances of IAC, checked if rotating (plugged 12V on both directions) - OK. He also measured coolant temp sensor resistance - OK Then he went for stopper screw, it was high, yes, the throttle was all the time at idle a little opened - IAC is stepping engine, it has more than 100 openning levels, and ECM could not find the right position for IAC, so it sets the nearest lower. Then the mechanic checked and adjusted the TPS with 0.7mm gauge, set it for infinite resistance and fastened the screws. Problem caused by throttle lever stop screw. Everything smooth now, very good pre-christmas gift :-) (before I did adjustments to screw, it was higher, I just set it a little lower just like the manual stated, I still can't find out who messed with it, there was yellow painted mark which was scrambled before I did adjustment). George, just like you said, he also recommended throttle intake and IACV to soak it up with cleaner for a few hours. IACV - intake ending with lots of hoses in it included IAC motor. But told that this is not necessary now, cause it runs fine. Suggested, that sometimes in March would be OK. He asked for 36€ (3 hours of work) for all this, I gave him 50€.

I see that you have also ES300. Could you plz take a photo of your throttle cable when engine is cold and not started?

Compression check seems easy to do. I'll try to look for the tester, or pay a visit to a dealer. I don't know how much, but I post it here? How much in US? Plugs are dry, a little dark, I should've taken some pics of it. I see that you have an experience. Really, would you say that adjusting spark plug gap is OK? I have a new NGK BKR6EP-11 here, waiting for replace, bought them sooner - was a good price on them. I measured the gaps with a slide calliper (0,02mm tolerance), they are perfectly OK. It has 235000km (around 142000miles). Changed oil, oil filter, ATF (filter last year - wasn't required), coolant, brake fluid, maybe soon I'll drain the powersteering/cooling fan fluid (Dexron II). I'll measure the resistance of spark plug wires, do a compression check. I will change the plugs in march. How to check cap and rotor? Btw, aren't those supposed to be in a carburated engine? Tranny was drained and filled twice this year, it was brown, now its more orange (cca 6 litres in tranny + cca 3 litres in reservoir) Just plz tell me, when adjusting throttle cable (kick-down tranny cable), manual says that there should be a 0-1mm of stopper visible from a rubber boot. But after adjustment, there is still a little slack. And when engine started and fully warmed up, the dashpot moves down resulting in -1mm inside the rubber boot (outside cable) with bigger slack. What about this?

I only pulled out 3 spark plugs, other 3 are underneath the air intake. What color on the sparkplugs should I see, if there is a wrong compression? Also found something about torque converter, if damaged, will result in drivability. But also tranny solenoids. I returned the stop screw to the right position, (applied vacuum to the dashpot and measured 0mm distance between stop lever and stop screw) Then I set the TPS to right position based on resistance specified in manual. Then the "kick-down" or throttle cable was adjusted so there is 0-1mm when throttle valve closed (but there is a little slack) I'll visit the dealer to check the compression, this one I don't see as a DIY.

I must mention again, that this sticking at the beginning is happening only when vacuum to dashpot is applied. When the vacuum is not applied, it is not sticking. Maybe this valve openner sticking is stopping or slowing down the dashpot (in case of overvalued pressure??) I looked at the troubleshooting in manual, it is insane, many things could cause this symptom. On the other hand, many of these electromechanical parts have a certain tolerance, in case that one thing goes wrong, other things will adapt to it. I think, that this could be caused 60% TPS and 40% some tranny solenoid.

146 022 miles, bought in Torronto, Canada. CTS is OK, like new, measured ohms by manual. Oil is OK, coolant is OK, ATF is OK, air filter is OK. O2s don't know if OK, haven'ŧ checked them, but they would show Check Engine? Am I right? I opened the throttle, It looks that this sticking is from manufacture. Can't clean, it just stuck (little but can feel it) at the beginning. What is vane? Second thing is, that my engine is not braking when throttle pedal released with O/D on at highway. RPMs just suddenly fall. When I turn O/D off, they return. Engine braking at L and 2 is working.

Nope. They were measured and checked OK.

I'm playing with it the whole day. Cables off won't help it. PCV is OK, I haven't mentioned that there is no O/D blinking nor Check Engine light. Seems everything is fine, even on Bosch ESI diag, borrowed from one of my neighbours. IAC just sprayed into the hole, not dismounted. Yes, the car is shaking, more than diesel volkswagen. Plugs are OK. Wires - OK Distributor cap - OK Yes, checked the exhaust, seems like too much fuel on same amount of air (no black nor blue or very white) No, between N-D N-R is just a slight kick, but while driving, I put a little pressure on the throttle, 1st-2nd is rough - feel like on manual, when clutch pedal is quickly released. I found the info about TPS, that this mostly affects the sooner/later shifting. This one I adjusted like manual says. Inserted thickness gauge 0.7mm, should be without continuity. 0.35mm should have continuity. I was at our Toyota reseller for changing fluids, they haven't noticed any faulty. What would you do?

I checked it before this operation. It is pretty clean. I also used throttle cleaner on IAC. Yes, I skimmed all of the topics about this car on this and other forums. I got all the information. My head is going to explode. Sometimes its shifting smooth, sometimes hard, depends maybe on my foot. When I drive newer car with auto tranny, it is always shifting smooth, regardless of my foot pressure on throttle. I hope someone solved it.

Maybe you could know, on the Lexus ES300 1995, applied vacuum to dashpot, stop lever screw adjusted to no clearance, should I turn it a little bit more? Throttle valve is stick at the beginning, I must push it a little bit harder. But only at the beginning. Is this OK? Is it for the idle? After adjusting stop screw, I adjusted TPS and corrected throttle cable. All based on the information from service manual for 1993 ES300 I was seeking for the solution, my lex is shaking my hands on the steering wheel, when fully warmed up and idling. Too low RPM? Yes, it is old car, but it is a good one. Is this RPM level ok?

Did it, it required a slight throttle pedal pushing during start, lot of smoke, I left it started for a minute, then went on the road, I felt a difference while pressing throttle pedal, it was smoother acceleration, and that buzzing noise in range cca 1800 - 2200 rpms was almost gone (still is there, but much less). Many thanks. Just the detail, I haven't had the hose disconnected during started engine. I just sprayed TB into hose, PCV and engine, connected them all, waited 15 minutes and then started engine. Was it sufficient? Or should I let the hose soak up TB while disconnected? Many thanks. That oil is normal, I also checked with another technician.

OK, did it, PCV and hose has TB inside, should I spray some to the opening in engine, where PCV is inserted?

Hi there, I called the Toyota authorised servis, showed them those photos, they said that it is ok, since this is only filler, where oil is poured through, and when is not cleaned, it will stick there due to high temperature. They said that if this gunk or carbon is not on the dipstick and oil temperature sensor, than I should not fear. Ofcourse I want now them to check on it better, they enrolled me on the 8th December. I'll let you know.

Hello LexGuys Do you consider these pictures as bad? I was just checking fluid levels this evening, and I just opened the oil filler and got shocked. I always let profesionals to deal with car service, every oil change with brakes check and cleaning, rotating wheels, pressure etc. So I did not mess with the engine. But this looks scary and tomorrow I will call to that service. Now I 'd like to know from you guys, if you ever experienced this, what could cause this? Car is Lexus ES300, 1995 yr with 235 000 km on clock. Oil and filter change at previous owner was 8000 km, I continued with it. I can't remember if it was like this when I got this car (I just think it wasn't). What can I imagine right now is that at last oil change, I used 1 litre of non-API oil (just ACEA A3/B4) to 3.5 litres API SL (One thing is for sure, both oils were not marked as energy conserving, there is no such thing in European oil market??!). I got the new oil and filter, but right now, I will not do anything, until I got the answer from local service, which I was visiting. Guys, is it really bad just based on this filler?

Have you ever had a problem with the torque converter lockup? - during drive over 40mph, left the pedal, and it should stick with a gear, and downshift when rpm's are getting lower. What to do if RPMs make a big jump in decrease, when throttle pedal is fully released? Big THX ;)

Faulty TPS, change it before it goes wrong. It is cheap part. If it's adjustable, don't mess with it, let your car mechanic adjust it.

Photo while engine was fully warmed up and idle. Throttle stop screw and stop lever on TB has no clearance. But throttle opener has. Should I unscrew throttle stop screw until this 5mm opener clearance disappear?

ES300 1995 -- NGK BKR6EP-11 platinum

Got ES300 1995 as a 20yrs old. Now I'm 22, still having it.

Hey there! It is the TPS (throttle possitioning sensor), sometimes adjusting is enough, but I would recommend a new one. Visit your local store, it should be cheap cca 15-30USD. Where it is? Open the hood, look at the "butterfly" - throttle valve, it is behind it, on the other side of intake pipe. Do not remove it on yourself, do not even loose its screws. Ohm meter, socket for that TPS is needed and you need 0.70mm and 0.35mm thin pads to make it right. Best regards.

Sorry for spamming

The worst car = Audi 100 yr 1988. Bought new, driven for 10 years, sold with value of 700USD (15.000.- SKK)