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More Questions About Vsc, Abs Lights


boznian2

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This is an ongoing saga that started out simply enough - just needing new struts. From my previous post at the end of August:

"We had a shop install new rear struts, tops and springs plus new front struts, bearing plates and sway bar links. When they were done the 3 warning lights ("vsc", "vsc off" and "ABS") are on all the time. The traction control switch under the dash has no effect. The shop claims that they tested for codes twice and there are none. What did they do? They are talking about a short or bad cable or bad computer that is going to above and beyond the original estimate for the strut replacement - I don't think so "

...and

"Just got back from another visit to the same shop and they say now that they were able to find some codes in the system: 34, left rear wheel speed sensor, open circuit ..and.. 43, deceleration sensor, out of calibration. They say it needs a new left rear wheel speed sensor and then recalibrate the yaw sensor for $375, and that "there is no way their technician caused this" - "it has probably been going bad for a long time and when they moved it (the cable, or the sensor itself?) to remove the wheel it shorted out". Another $91 to diagnose the issue. "

I didn't believe them and I didn't want them working on the car anymore (especially since they fully intend to charge for everything) so a few weeks ago I took it to the local Toyota dealer. They verified the code for a bad wheel speed sensor and replaced it, which fixed the problem for another $300. They said the same thing that I have heard from this forum and other searches on the subject, that it is very likely the tech screwed up the sensor while changing the struts.

So we drive it for about 2 weeks and then hit an average bump on the highway and all 3 lights come on again, same as before except now you hit a bump and they come on, hit another and they go off. ONLY at highway speeds. Take it back to the Toyota dealer, same code. The said the sensor had debris on it, cleaned it off. On the way home, it does it again. Take it back a 3rd time - now they say we have a bad "ABS tone ring" which can only be purchased as part of the wheel bearing and hub assy. Now they want another $650 :angry: Remember that the lights now only 'cycle' on or off at highway speeds, when hitting a bump. If they are on when you shut off the car, they will be off when you start it again until you reach 65-70 mph and hit a bump.

I feel like I am getting hosed for technician incompetence. Any advice, thoughts?

Original topic: http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...mp;#entry386050

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Well for the initial problem, the mechanic could very easily caused the problem. If he did not disconnect the sensor before removing the struts, the wire to the senor could have been damaged. Now for the second part of the problem it adds a lot of ambiguity to the whole issue. As far as a BAD TONE RING, I would have a big issue with that. Tone rings generally do not go bad, more often they will be damaged, or there could be a issue with the bearing itself. Have they used a dial micrometer to check the freeplay and runout on the bearing? Also the seating surfaces must be checked for rust and other debris. If they had to clean the sensor once already, there is a issue there. Now if the bearing is bad, that would exonerate the original tech from any guilt on damaging the sensor, and point more towards the fact they did not diagnos the problem correctly, but did not cause the problem. Hard to tell exactly without seeing the car. Pardon the spelling, but it's late, and had a rough night at work.

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Well for the initial problem, the mechanic could very easily caused the problem. If he did not disconnect the sensor before removing the struts, the wire to the senor could have been damaged. Now for the second part of the problem it adds a lot of ambiguity to the whole issue. As far as a BAD TONE RING, I would have a big issue with that. Tone rings generally do not go bad, more often they will be damaged, or there could be a issue with the bearing itself. Have they used a dial micrometer to check the freeplay and runout on the bearing? Also the seating surfaces must be checked for rust and other debris. If they had to clean the sensor once already, there is a issue there. Now if the bearing is bad, that would exonerate the original tech from any guilt on damaging the sensor, and point more towards the fact they did not diagnos the problem correctly, but did not cause the problem. Hard to tell exactly without seeing the car. Pardon the spelling, but it's late, and had a rough night at work.

I may have left out an important item, and that is that when they replaced the speed sensor they had to drill it out. They said it was rusted in place. They also said that some of the leftover debris from that action is what was on the sensor and had to be cleaned off the second time I had it back in. After reading your post I can't help but wonder if they damaged the tone ring while replacing the sensor...

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That is a significant event, for a couple reasons. The rust can be preventing the new sensor from seating properly. I believe the sensor is a reluctance sensor (there is a winding, which generates a voltage when the teeth of the tone ring pass the sensor). The gap between the teeth and the sensor is important, it there is rust or other issues with the seating surface, you will see problems. It is also possible that while drilling the old sensor, they might have hit the tone ring. They have already verified that it was not cleaned properly after drilling. Now if you could pull the hub and visually check the tone ring, you might be able to verify this.

Of course on the other hand, bearings do go bad, and this could possibly be a coincidence that it happened at this time.

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