Engine+vsc Light?

[lexusnow]

I got both Engine+VSC light at the same time. I also notice that the temp meter is not stay at the middle, only reaches the 2nd point. I checked with autozone, they said 02 sensor bank 1?

Last week, I changed the air filter, and yet I checked the hose behind the air box, I guess this engine light could be caused by using wrong size or cheap air filter? I bought it at autozone? There is no other possible reason that this light comes one. I sually got it change at the dealer, but not this time. SO I will go to lexus dealer and purchase 1 from them, and wait another week to see if this light will go away???

any advice ??? thanks allll

[pauljcl]

I got both Engine+VSC light at the same time. I also notice that the temp meter is not stay at the middle, only reaches the 2nd point. I checked with autozone, they said 02 sensor bank 1?

Last week, I changed the air filter, and yet I checked the hose behind the air box, I guess this engine light could be caused by using wrong size or cheap air filter? I bought it at autozone? There is no other possible reason that this light comes one. I sually got it change at the dealer, but not this time. SO I will go to lexus dealer and purchase 1 from them, and wait another week to see if this light will go away???

any advice ??? thanks allll

Chances that the air filter caused your engine/VSC lights to come on is between nil and zero. There is another problem. Maybe something got 'knocked off' or 'disconnected' when you changed the air filter?

[code58]

I got both Engine+VSC light at the same time. I also notice that the temp meter is not stay at the middle, only reaches the 2nd point. I checked with autozone, they said 02 sensor bank 1?

Last week, I changed the air filter, and yet I checked the hose behind the air box, I guess this engine light could be caused by using wrong size or cheap air filter? I bought it at autozone? There is no other possible reason that this light comes one. I sually got it change at the dealer, but not this time. SO I will go to lexus dealer and purchase 1 from them, and wait another week to see if this light will go away???

any advice ??? thanks allll

I doubt very seriously that getting an original Lexus filter is going to solve your problem. The codes are a signpost , not an exact diagnosis. The sensor being bad wouldn't cause your light to come on any more than the filter would. (disclaimer for exceptions) Don't start throwing parts at it. If your temp. gauge all of a sudden isn't rising to normal, don't you think it might be related to that? Disconnect your battery to shut the lights off and clear the codes or have them cleared, and see if the same ones come back up when they come back up. Meantime, go to www.obd-codes.com and do some reading and see if you can't find the probable causes and the cure for those particular lights coming on. There is a Lexus specific page there.

[eugene.s]

Check tha

[lexusnow]

Thanks all..

I just came back from Autozone, and this time the code is P1135 "Manufacturing Control Fuel Air Meter". He recommended me to use this $8 MAF cleaner spray to clean the MAF sensor on the top of the air filter box. There is a small box on the top of the air filter box, with 2 screws very easy to open. And drive for 2 days and come back to clear that code and if that code comes back again with the same error, then he told me I need to replace that small box, this will solve that enging light....I hope he is right.

I haven't replaced the original Lexus air filter, just cleaned the MAF sensor, any advice?? thanks

[lenore]

HERE IS THE PROCEDURE FOR CLEANING MAF SENSOR

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-first-g...bout-yours.html

[code58]

Thanks all..

I just came back from Autozone, and this time the code is P1135 "Manufacturing Control Fuel Air Meter". He recommended me to use this $8 MAF cleaner spray to clean the MAF sensor on the top of the air filter box. There is a small box on the top of the air filter box, with 2 screws very easy to open. And drive for 2 days and come back to clear that code and if that code comes back again with the same error, then he told me I need to replace that small box, this will solve that enging light....I hope he is right.

I haven't replaced the original Lexus air filter, just cleaned the MAF sensor, any advice?? thanks

Lexusnow- Did that explanation of code P1135 come from AZ? Where in the world did they get that? Go to the online OBD site that I gave you in the last post. Type in "Lexus" in the box on the entry page. It will take you to the Lexus specific page for P codes. P1135 for a Lexus is very specific, it says, "air/fuel ratio sensor heater circuit malfunction, B1S1". That is the rear sensor in the exhaust pipe where it comes off of the exhaust manifold. It is one of the most common sensor problems on Lexus when they get some miles on them. You have to get to it from the bottom. Getting the plug unplugged is the most difficult part, although in Iowa rust may be a real problem for you. I am NOT telling you that is the problem, only telling you that is an ACCURATE interpretation of TC P1135. Good Luck! With AZ giving you interpretations like that, you'll need it! :D

Also, IF IT IS the A/F ratio sensor, I would suggestion you use ONLY DENSO as others have been problematic. A good piece of advice for free, it would be wise to take it.

[lexusnow]

thanks, this link is really hepful...

[lexusnow]

IS anybody here cunrrently using stoprepairsbills rightnow? any con/pro ? thanks all

[lexusnow]

Im thinking to replace that MAF sensor, I just used all the can to clean that thing, and clear ed the code but got the same result..

[code58]

Im thinking to replace that MAF sensor, I just used all the can to clean that thing, and clear ed the code but got the same result..

I am truly curious Lexusnow as to why you cleaned the MAF when the code pointed directly to A/F ratio sensor, bank 1 sensor 1. I have dealt with this problem and that code IS specific to the HEATER in bank 1 sensor 1, which is the one on the firewall side of the engine. That sensor is the hard one to get to, primarily because the plug is difficult to get to, to release, but if you can get it out, it is easy to check with a meter for continuity to tell if it is bad. If the code is still P1135, then it's STILL the A/F ratio sensor heater, not the MAF!

I am not telling you that it is the A/F ratio sensor, I'm only telling you that is the ONLY thing P1135 is referring to. That is the reason I explained there is a way to test it (the heater circuit) before you buy one and can't take it back.

When I was referring to bad advice from AZ it was not your 1st post, in that post you said AZ said 02 sensor, bank 1. In that they were correct, if they were getting a P1135. How it changed to a MAF sensor that needed to be cleaned or replaced, I am still scratching my head over. If you wanted accurate interpretation of p1135, you have it. If you're on a fishing trip with no bait on your hook, fish on!

[artbuc]

Im thinking to replace that MAF sensor, I just used all the can to clean that thing, and clear ed the code but got the same result..

I am truly curious Lexusnow as to why you cleaned the MAF when the code pointed directly to A/F ratio sensor, bank 1 sensor 1. I have dealt with this problem and that code IS specific to the HEATER in bank 1 sensor 1, which is the one on the firewall side of the engine. That sensor is the hard one to get to, primarily because the plug is difficult to get to, to release, but if you can get it out, it is easy to check with a meter for continuity to tell if it is bad. If the code is still P1135, then it's STILL the A/F ratio sensor heater, not the MAF!

I am not telling you that it is the A/F ratio sensor, I'm only telling you that is the ONLY thing P1135 is referring to. That is the reason I explained there is a way to test it (the heater circuit) before you buy one and can't take it back.

When I was referring to bad advice from AZ it was not your 1st post, in that post you said AZ said 02 sensor, bank 1. In that they were correct, if they were getting a P1135. How it changed to a MAF sensor that needed to be cleaned or replaced, I am still scratching my head over. If you wanted accurate interpretation of p1135, you have it. If you're on a fishing trip with no bait on your hook, fish on!

Roger, your advice is usually the best on this forum. BUT, in this case, you are off the mark. Lexusnow should buy a six pack of MAF cleaner and clean MAF for one hour every 7 days. If that doesn't work he should buy a new MAF sensor and install it along with a new muffler bearing. That should solve his problem.

[lenore]

here is the sensor to replace: AS CODE58 said.....

[code58]

Im thinking to replace that MAF sensor, I just used all the can to clean that thing, and clear ed the code but got the same result..

I am truly curious Lexusnow as to why you cleaned the MAF when the code pointed directly to A/F ratio sensor, bank 1 sensor 1. I have dealt with this problem and that code IS specific to the HEATER in bank 1 sensor 1, which is the one on the firewall side of the engine. That sensor is the hard one to get to, primarily because the plug is difficult to get to, to release, but if you can get it out, it is easy to check with a meter for continuity to tell if it is bad. If the code is still P1135, then it's STILL the A/F ratio sensor heater, not the MAF!

I am not telling you that it is the A/F ratio sensor, I'm only telling you that is the ONLY thing P1135 is referring to. That is the reason I explained there is a way to test it (the heater circuit) before you buy one and can't take it back.

When I was referring to bad advice from AZ it was not your 1st post, in that post you said AZ said 02 sensor, bank 1. In that they were correct, if they were getting a P1135. How it changed to a MAF sensor that needed to be cleaned or replaced, I am still scratching my head over. If you wanted accurate interpretation of p1135, you have it. If you're on a fishing trip with no bait on your hook, fish on!

Roger, your advice is usually the best on this forum. BUT, in this case, you are off the mark. Lexusnow should buy a six pack of MAF cleaner and clean MAF for one hour every 7 days. If that doesn't work he should buy a new MAF sensor and install it along with a new muffler bearing. That should solve his problem.

Artbuc- Why didn't I think of that? Matter of fact, 2 muffler bearings, they're small. Probably can get those at AZ too. :lol:

[Hadyourphil]

And just in time for Memorial Day Weekend... Brake grease!!

Is there a procedure for removing the sensor on the exhaust line or does it just unscrew? And, is that a Lexus-only or aftermarket part??

(Have the same code P1135. AZ said it was the "fuel air sensor"...)

[code58]

And just in time for Memorial Day Weekend... Brake grease!!

Is there a procedure for removing the sensor on the exhaust line or does it just unscrew? And, is that a Lexus-only or aftermarket part??

(Have the same code P1135. AZ said it was the "fuel air sensor"...)

HYP- Can you tell me where to get that brake grease- I know someone who has been looking all over for that and hasn't been able to find it anywhere.

Just unscrews like a spark plug, but there are special sockets for it. Have a slot in the side of them for the wire. You CAN get it out without the sp. soc. You do have to jack it up or use a hoist because you have to get to it from the bottom (on the rear bank, by the firewall). The tough part is getting the plug unplugged because you need 2 hands and unless you're a midget or a contortionist you can't get both hands up there at the same time. I finally got it, but it wasn't easy. I see you're in Florida- has the car always been in Florida? Rust belt people sometimes have a challenge because it's rusted in. My DIL's RX has always been in So. Cal. so it was no problem, we don't have rust here. Some people have gone so far as to cut it out of the pipe with a torch and then weld in a bung to screw the sensor into. In my estimation, that is the rough way to go. I have used a hot wrench (torch) all my life to remove seized (rusted) whatever, and have not to this day ever had one break off. You hold the tip of the torch right on the nut or whatever is seized and when it is heated red hot, it expands and breaks the lock of the rust. I trust you don't have to do that. If you have a Harbour Freight in your area, they sell a nice sensor socket very reasonable. Your money, do what you wish, but I would advise use ONLY DENSO for replacement sensor. They can be purchased online for as cheap as $150. at an online Lexus dealer. Google is your friend!

AZ was correct- it is the "air/fuel ratio sensor" Denso part# is 89467-48011

[lexusnow]

So my dealer replaced this air fuel sensor bank1.......NOTE: my temp thermometer was below the nornal line, and today after they replaced this bad sensor, the temp meter is in normal line ???? i'm so confused. I had noticed this issue since the engine light was on....any ideas....thanks all....

[code58]

So my dealer replaced this air fuel sensor bank1.......NOTE: my temp thermometer was below the nornal line, and today after they replaced this bad sensor, the temp meter is in normal line ???? i'm so confused. I had noticed this issue since the engine light was on....any ideas....thanks all....

It's hard to imagine that it would make that kind of difference but that code was for the heater in the A/F ratio sensor and if the heater wasn't working, it would be putting more fuel into the engine (at least on that bank), and since fuel cools, that would be the end result. It is in open loop until the heater brings it into closed loop or the engine warms up enough on it's own to go into closed loop. If you're going down a hill or it's extra cold, the heater comes back on to keep it in closed loop. Without the heater, it will go into open loop and use more fuel (open loop is like the choke on, though you don't have a choke). Doesn't seem feasible, but maybe that is the answer.

[lenore]

IS anybody here cunrrently using stoprepairsbills rightnow? any con/pro ? thanks all

It is a rip off, widely posted on the news, and Clark Howards show. Beware

[lexusnow]

I was on the phone with the saler for 1 hr....I didn't buy that one......thankss

[Spigz]

Hi, newbie alert.

I have the same problem on a 01 RX300 exported to Cambodia. I'm able to reset the engine/VSC lights by the methods shown, but I find that after one day of driving it all just starts again. Likewise my temperature gauge seems to be very low even when stuck in traffic/40c+ temperatures. Also, my idle speed is very irregular so I'm thinking that this is a MAF problem (had a similar thing on a 928 back in the UK). I'm going to give the sensor cleaning idea a go, but wondered if anyone can recommend what parts would normally be changed if the MAF was faulty?

I'm a bit stuck here as there is no Lexus dealer in Cambodia, and the local knowledge is simply to reset the lights rather than tackling the problem. I'd like to be able to list the parts to change and to be able to point them out to a mechanic here who might not be very good at English! Any help would be much appreciated - particularly if anyone has recommendations on where to service an RX300 properly in Cambodia. There are a heck of a lot of imports of RXs from the US, most of them with a very dodgy history - thankfully I checked about 20 of them via the VIN number and AutoCheck and found only two that were as near to genuine as could be expected; the rest were clocked/write offs, etc. I'm figuring that there must be somebody here that knows how to fix these cars properly rather than the 'quick-fix' mechanics I've found so far.

Suspect you might be hearing more from this side of the planet in the future :)

[lexusnow]

So my dealer replaced this air fuel sensor bank1.......NOTE: my temp thermometer was below the nornal line, and today after they replaced this bad sensor, the temp meter is in normal line ???? i'm so confused. I had noticed this issue since the engine light was on....any ideas....thanks all....

OH MAN, MY ENGINE LIGHT AND VSC JUST CAME BACK ON AGAIN....

[Hadyourphil]

Here's what I did to replace my A/F ratio sensor. I had the 1135 code.

First of all, here it is:

You'll need a 22mm wrench. Here's a tip. If yours is like mine where no matter how you used the open end of the wrench you couldn't turn the sensor, either unplug the connector first or cut the wires so you can slip the box end over the nut. THat's the only way I could remove mine. WD-40 helps.

Now, the connector:

It's a bear to take apart. Using a slender screwdriver to pry off the catch helps. I had cut the wire and removed the sensor first. Finally it came out. Then I learned I had made a mistake. While the sensors were identical, the plug was slightly different. I have no idea how I ended up with the one I have (a Bosch 13540) but I did. It fits a Lexus, just not the RX300 I have. What to do. I cut off the new connector and soldered (and heat shrinked) the old connector on to the new sensor. The wires are color coded, and it makes no difference which black wire goes to which. They connect to a low-resistance coil in the sensor. My old one was open BTW.

Although I had not purchased the exact equivalent, mine works fine. I have a major road trip coming up on July 22 so I'll be able to really test my repair and whether it has affected the gas mileage.

Hope this information helps someone. The repair was quite straightforward and easy, otherwise.

[Hadyourphil]

Well, over 2000 miles since the repair and everything is fine. I didn';t see any improvement in the gas mileage (although I also didn't see any loss while the sensor was broken), but the car seems to run a bit smoother.

[Hadyourphil]

Now it is almost a year and 20,000 miles later and everything is working fine. Obviously, the sensor I used was the corect one, even though I had to modify the plug.