camlex Posted May 10, 2009 Share Posted May 10, 2009 Hello, I bought gaskets for EGR (Upper and bottom). For the last 12 years I have never touched it. No codes, but I'm thinking about cleaning it. I think I have an idea of how to open the top and bottom. Are there any other connections that I'll have to disconnect? How to clean? And is it a good idea to clean the EGR? Please advice. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted May 11, 2009 Author Share Posted May 11, 2009 Thank you, Since nobody replied, I am assuming leave it alone. I was looking EGR vacuum modulator filter, I can;t find it. May be only in 4 cylinder toyota camry. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 any pictures of EGR cleaning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George_Jetson Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 egr.bmp I don't see any indication of a filter, and my manuals do not give any specifics on cleaning. If you need torque specs or something like that I could look it up if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted May 15, 2009 Author Share Posted May 15, 2009 That's very nice of you. I am thinking either valve open or close. and i don't have any code. Looks to me it's working fine. should i mess with it? other thing i noticed in my car is when i drive 40-45 miles speed it's pulsing, rpm remain same (Not goes up and down) that is reason i wanted to clean. and with 353,300 i nevered clean. please advice. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George_Jetson Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 I am not familiar with the 97, does the egr valve connect directly to the intake plenium. If so, I would look more at the VSV and vac control valve. But I think that cleaning the egr (and verifing that the seat looks ok). I would then re-install the valve, without hooking up the vac lines. Test drive to make sure that the issue is egr related. Then I would change out the vac control valve, vsv valves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 Tomorrow i will be in Austin, may be Sunday, I will work on it. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George_Jetson Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 egramp.bmp Here is something that explains how to check on the egr amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 I don't have modulator as show on picture. It's electronic. I will take picture and post it on sunday. Thanks for your all inputs. Have a good weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 Hello, Back from Austin. Picture of EGR as promissed. Pic 3 shows Temp. switch in EGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George_Jetson Posted May 17, 2009 Share Posted May 17, 2009 How is the idle? If the egr valve seat was leaking by, it should give you a rough idle. Try driving the car for a short distance with the vac line disconnected from the egr valve (but be aware that this will set the check engine light). Does the car still surge? I am not familiar with exactly how the inject the egr into these cars, I know that on some cars, (like the wife 5.0 ford) the egr goes thru individual ports to each cylinder. These ports will clog over time, leaving all the egr to go to the remaining cylinders. As a result some cylinders get way too much, and some get none at all. And the engine surges when egr is applied (part throttle cruise). So if your car is running decent otherwise, the egr is a good thing to check out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted May 27, 2009 Author Share Posted May 27, 2009 Thanks for your input. Since idle is fine, I decided not to mess with it. May be some other time, while cleaning TB. Still i can not understand why my car has pulsation when i drive 40-45 miles, rpm remain same. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George_Jetson Posted May 27, 2009 Share Posted May 27, 2009 Are you sure the pulsating is coming from the engine? What steps have you taken to determine this? May I suggest getting onto a road and bringing the speed up to the point where it is pulsating note speed and RPM. Then downshift out of overdrive and bring it back to the point of pulsating and noting the speed and RPM. If the speed is low enough, you may even to be able to downshift again and then note the speed and RPM. Is there a coralation? What do you see? Driveability issuse are generally the hardest to isolate, the key is to make as many observations as possible. In this instance the most important would be RPM and speed, (or at least that would be the first and most easy to observe). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Last evening i opened Mass Air Flow Meter and cleaned with MAF cleaner. Acceleration is better. should i mess with EGR? will help ? Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zockslexus Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Last evening i opened Mass Air Flow Meter and cleaned with MAF cleaner. Acceleration is better. should i mess with EGR? will help ? Thanks, having the same problem I think. Did you notice that the problem was less "problematic" with premium gas? Try that and tell me what you think. it seems to me that with 90 plus oct. gas, the pulsation (I call it hesitation) is not as bad. However, with 87, completely slow acceleration!! Furthermore, where is the mass air flow meter and how did you clean it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camlex Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 Location of MAF showing by arrow. Bt Pressing tab, disconnect the connector, and use 10MM to open MAF, also open air filter box to raise the MAF (otherwise other connector in the way to take out), use ONLY MAF Cleaner. spay cleaner inside, let it dry off and install back. Hope that helps. I will try 93 octane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zockslexus Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Location of MAF showing by arrow.Bt Pressing tab, disconnect the connector, and use 10MM to open MAF, also open air filter box to raise the MAF (otherwise other connector in the way to take out), use ONLY MAF Cleaner. spay cleaner inside, let it dry off and install back. Hope that helps. I will try 93 octane. thanks for the help camlex! One more thing, throw about 1/3 can of seafoam into your oil, seemed to help a bit for me as well. However, it is still "slightly" there. I hope I can knock it out with the MAF cleaning. Zockslexus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flexer Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Location of MAF showing by arrow.Bt Pressing tab, disconnect the connector, and use 10MM to open MAF, also open air filter box to raise the MAF (otherwise other connector in the way to take out), use ONLY MAF Cleaner. spay cleaner inside, let it dry off and install back. Hope that helps. I will try 93 octane. thanks for the help camlex! One more thing, throw about 1/3 can of seafoam into your oil, seemed to help a bit for me as well. However, it is still "slightly" there. I hope I can knock it out with the MAF cleaning. Zockslexus I am currently having the same problem with my 98 ES300. The car has 67k on it. I noticed that I can only get the car to do the slight surging being in any gear, at any speed, as long as I am just giving the car 10-30% throttle and am between 1500-2500 rpm. I did have a o2 sensor and EGR code but they both went away on there own, yet the car is still doing the surging. Hope you guys can solve the problem because I think we are all in the same boat. I am going to try to clean the maf and the EGR. J. R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zockslexus Posted June 30, 2009 Share Posted June 30, 2009 Location of MAF showing by arrow.Bt Pressing tab, disconnect the connector, and use 10MM to open MAF, also open air filter box to raise the MAF (otherwise other connector in the way to take out), use ONLY MAF Cleaner. spay cleaner inside, let it dry off and install back. Hope that helps. I will try 93 octane. thanks for the help camlex! One more thing, throw about 1/3 can of seafoam into your oil, seemed to help a bit for me as well. However, it is still "slightly" there. I hope I can knock it out with the MAF cleaning. Zockslexus I am currently having the same problem with my 98 ES300. The car has 67k on it. I noticed that I can only get the car to do the slight surging being in any gear, at any speed, as long as I am just giving the car 10-30% throttle and am between 1500-2500 rpm. I did have a o2 sensor and EGR code but they both went away on there own, yet the car is still doing the surging. Hope you guys can solve the problem because I think we are all in the same boat. I am going to try to clean the maf and the EGR. J. R. ok, keep us posted. try higher octane gas as well...see if it goes away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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