zockslexus

Hello all!! I have not been here in what feels like a few years. After all, there has been nothing wrong with my ES. I have 276,xxx on her and she finally popped a few codes. PO330 - Knock sensor 2 circuit bank 2 and PO171 - system to lean, bank 1 Can anyone tell me where to start to get this fixed? I would rather not get taken advantage of at a dealer or some shop... Where is the knock sensor? Anyone have experience with these codes? Lately, she hesitates HEAVILY when I accelerate now...would love to get it cleaned up and push her past 300,xxx miles!! Thanks for all that you do.

nice...all I can say

too bad you are going to kill it...it's no clunker to me...

George, I, however, appreciate your input...but quality, not quickness.

hey pete, do it right the first time. it's cheap and lasts forever. get 1500 grit sandpaper get 400 grit sandpaper or similar one can of clear coat (smallest you can find). WET sand the lenses with the 400 grit. It will leave them looking milky and like you really messed up your lenses with the sandpaper...do this a few times. this gets off the yellow oxidation. second, with the 1500 grit WET sand again until you have made it baby butt smooth..or if you are like me (ocd haha) you think you have sanded out every last imperfection. your lenses will still look milky and like you really messed them up. 1500 grit is for mirror finishes...so you know what this is for. lastly, newspaper off around the lenses or take them out before starting this whole process. LIGHTLY dust with clear coat...3 coats will likely do it. LOOKS LIKE NEW!! B) email me if you have questions...trust me, you will love your work and be proud.

put coolant in your radiator WHEN THE CAR IS COMPLETELY COOL!! Never open it when it is remotely warm or hot as the expanding gasses can spray out and burn you making you one ugly MFER...haha. The tank is simply for overflow. well, for your transmission...if its cold, the level should be at...COLD and viseversa.

glad to see that it worked!! sweet!

no responses bother me. if this guy ever checks back here...i would agree with dude above..plus start looking in your owners manual for odd things of this nature.

agreed...fast cars stock...just keep her running clean and with high octane.

not going to be a battery, or alternator. timing belt broken would result in the car not being able to be turned back on...pending your response, we will figure it out. battery...well a dead battery only reveals itself at startup...and alternator..would have an indicator on dash as well as dim lights for a day or so before it died. besides, if it was running and quit...then its not an alternator..those problems occur again when the owner attempts a restart similar to the battery prob. give us more info and you will get a good lead here.

my favorite part is how you would take a few scratches for the primacy tires...and then ask for touch up paint. In aviation, where I work and play, that kind of thinking would get someone killed...

I am not aware of any oil problems...specially lights. check your oil...the light usually means low oil.

MAN, WISH I COULD HAVE READ THIS ONE SOONER...THIS KIND OF ISSUE IS ALWAYS THE RESISTOR...YOU CAN USUALLY FIND IT IN THE DASH...TRY UNDER THE PASSENGER SIDE.

please clarify Can anyone Help me? If you elect to not replace the knock sensor a multitude of interlaced electrical and mechanical problems will result. The most important is the motors ability to advance or !Removed! spark timing as you operate the car. This in very important if you use low octane 87 fuel. The knock sensor retards the electrical advance program inside the ignition timing module when it senses spark knock inside the combustion chambers. Eventually, worst case scenario are burned valves and severe piston and piston ring damage. Without a timing light I couldn't say for sure but you may not have any ignition advance at all without the knock sensor. Fuel economy would drop directly in the toilet if this happens. I'd strongly recommend replacing it for your continued life expectancy of the motor. ok Thanks I will!Does the knock sensor slow your rpm down and make your car run slower? okay i got you and I appreciate your help very much but when my check engine light comes on! I also get a leakage light come on at about the same time! Is this normal!!

thanks for the help camlex! One more thing, throw about 1/3 can of seafoam into your oil, seemed to help a bit for me as well. However, it is still "slightly" there. I hope I can knock it out with the MAF cleaning. Zockslexus I am currently having the same problem with my 98 ES300. The car has 67k on it. I noticed that I can only get the car to do the slight surging being in any gear, at any speed, as long as I am just giving the car 10-30% throttle and am between 1500-2500 rpm. I did have a o2 sensor and EGR code but they both went away on there own, yet the car is still doing the surging. Hope you guys can solve the problem because I think we are all in the same boat. I am going to try to clean the maf and the EGR. J. R. ok, keep us posted. try higher octane gas as well...see if it goes away

hey guys and gals...now I have a problem. Sunroof will not open or close...easily. It sounds like the gears are grinding when I push my button. It will move a bit, then grind. furthermore, the buttons do not always do what they are supposed to do. You know, like back or forward wont work it, but tilt will...visa versa...but only for a sec. because it then grinds. how do these things work, I saw cables in the tracks...possible cable off the track? bad gear box, bad sunroof computer?

Likely. Some symptoms include sluggish engine, bad fuel economy, and poor acceleration. Can anyone Help me? If you elect to not replace the knock sensor a multitude of interlaced electrical and mechanical problems will result. The most important is the motors ability to advance or !Removed! spark timing as you operate the car. This in very important if you use low octane 87 fuel. The knock sensor retards the electrical advance program inside the ignition timing module when it senses spark knock inside the combustion chambers. Eventually, worst case scenario are burned valves and severe piston and piston ring damage. Without a timing light I couldn't say for sure but you may not have any ignition advance at all without the knock sensor. Fuel economy would drop directly in the toilet if this happens. I'd strongly recommend replacing it for your continued life expectancy of the motor. ok Thanks I will!Does the knock sensor slow your rpm down and make your car run slower?

agreed...gonna have to lilve with it if you want to have high mile warrenty tires.

Can anyone Help me? If you elect to not replace the knock sensor a multitude of interlaced electrical and mechanical problems will result. The most important is the motors ability to advance or !Removed! spark timing as you operate the car. This in very important if you use low octane 87 fuel. The knock sensor retards the electrical advance program inside the ignition timing module when it senses spark knock inside the combustion chambers. Eventually, worst case scenario are burned valves and severe piston and piston ring damage. Without a timing light I couldn't say for sure but you may not have any ignition advance at all without the knock sensor. Fuel economy would drop directly in the toilet if this happens. I'd strongly recommend replacing it for your continued life expectancy of the motor.

download the repair manual on the main post page.

should be no problem.

likely a broken door switch. they are usually push type...the door pushes it in when closed. it could be broken off or something. just find out how your car controls this and off you go!! There is no relay.

sounds to me like the repair work you had done when you first got the car is the cause of the problem. sometimes, to figure out what is wrong with your car you need to go back to what was done last...hence (and in my opinion) the reason why you are having the oil leak into the cylinders is because of some crappy work done when you had your gaskets replaced. the fact that your car was smoking on start up and other such things, indicates a crap job done by the mechanic. so, tell me what the mechanics said when you took her in for being sluggish the first time... Perhaps a little look at the gaskets they replaced? Keep in mind, 146 thou. on these cars is WAY to young to die. I have 250 plus on mine, no smoke out of the pipes...etc. There are others with more... don't worry, we will get you to the bottom of this...just need some more info.

thanks for the help camlex! One more thing, throw about 1/3 can of seafoam into your oil, seemed to help a bit for me as well. However, it is still "slightly" there. I hope I can knock it out with the MAF cleaning. Zockslexus