spenav Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 I broke the long bolt that hold the rear brake caliper and half of it is still in the cylinder. the car (RX300) is still driveable but don't know how to get it out. Any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blk_on_blk Posted April 27, 2009 Share Posted April 27, 2009 Start with an Easy-out extractor (like this set): http://www.toolprice.com/product/1219A/Sre...lt_Removal.html ...you drill a pilot hole in the broken remaining bolt piece, then screw in the easy-out... it's a reverse twist, and the harder you crank on it, the more it digs into the broken bolt till it finally causes the threads to let loose. Here's a how-to video of the process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_esPGva76I Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ericok Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 He really didn't give enough description of the broken bolt to provide any extraction advice - like which "half" is left inside. Plus, that bolt is removed from the backside of the caliper making access with an ez out difficult at best. I also question his conclusion that, with a broken caliper bolt, the car is still "driveable". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blk_on_blk Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 I'm presuming it's the long slider pin that the caliper floats on (and you can take off the caliper mount frame to get to the slider pin bolt), but either way, if anyone breaks off a bolt (which is presumed to be a shaft with threads somewhere on it), then it's always the threaded end that is stuck... the other end doesn't even come close to having the tolerances to get truly stuck... and an easy-out is always the first approach. If it's something else, then it's not truly a broken/stuck bolt, and the approach depends on the situation. Plus, there are no 'bolts' in the 'cylinder', so he may be off on his description... but based on a broken bolt, the extractor is the first approach. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spenav Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 Start with an Easy-out extractor (like this set): http://www.toolprice.com/product/1219A/Sre...lt_Removal.html ...you drill a pilot hole in the broken remaining bolt piece, then screw in the easy-out... it's a reverse twist, and the harder you crank on it, the more it digs into the broken bolt till it finally causes the threads to let loose. Here's a how-to video of the process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_esPGva76I Thanks for the reply. I will give that a try. So far it is still driveable and holding pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bend Oregon RX300 Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 I'm presuming it's the long slider pin that the caliper floats on (and you can take off the caliper mount frame to get to the slider pin bolt), but either way, if anyone breaks off a bolt (which is presumed to be a shaft with threads somewhere on it), then it's always the threaded end that is stuck... the other end doesn't even come close to having the tolerances to get truly stuck... and an easy-out is always the first approach. If it's something else, then it's not truly a broken/stuck bolt, and the approach depends on the situation. Plus, there are no 'bolts' in the 'cylinder', so he may be off on his description... but based on a broken bolt, the extractor is the first approach. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post my question, but I cannot get the floating caliper to swing back into position for !Removed! the long slider pin back into place. I pushed the piston back to where it is flush with the caliper face and I get a small dimple in the boot that prevents the swinging caliper to mate with its matching rotor part. How deep can I push the piston into the cylinder and is it better to try and push the boot down the neck of the piston as I move the piston back into the cylinder. When I get the piston flush with the caliper wall, the boot is dimpled and strikes the inner pad face. The other issue is that the old antisqueal shim (slotted shim) does not fit over the new Akebono pad. The outer SS shim snaps into place just fine, so I do not have the slotted antisqueal shim installed. There is already a shim built into the Akebono pad, so I figure two shims came off, one new shim comes with the Akebono pad and I place the outer shim and finish the process. Otherwise, even if the slotted shim did fit, there would be three shims over the pad were I to use the slotted antisqueal shim. Big issue now is the boot and how to get the caliper to close the gap and allow the slider pin to fit back where it belongs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bend Oregon RX300 Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 I'm presuming it's the long slider pin that the caliper floats on (and you can take off the caliper mount frame to get to the slider pin bolt), but either way, if anyone breaks off a bolt (which is presumed to be a shaft with threads somewhere on it), then it's always the threaded end that is stuck... the other end doesn't even come close to having the tolerances to get truly stuck... and an easy-out is always the first approach. If it's something else, then it's not truly a broken/stuck bolt, and the approach depends on the situation. Plus, there are no 'bolts' in the 'cylinder', so he may be off on his description... but based on a broken bolt, the extractor is the first approach. Sorry if this is the wrong place to post my question, but I cannot get the floating caliper to swing back into position for !Removed! the long slider pin back into place. I pushed the piston back to where it is flush with the caliper face and I get a small dimple in the boot that prevents the swinging caliper to mate with its matching rotor part. How deep can I push the piston into the cylinder and is it better to try and push the boot down the neck of the piston as I move the piston back into the cylinder. When I get the piston flush with the caliper wall, the boot is dimpled and strikes the inner pad face. The other issue is that the old antisqueal shim (slotted shim) does not fit over the new Akebono pad. The outer SS shim snaps into place just fine, so I do not have the slotted antisqueal shim installed. There is already a shim built into the Akebono pad, so I figure two shims came off, one new shim comes with the Akebono pad and I place the outer shim and finish the process. Otherwise, even if the slotted shim did fit, there would be three shims over the pad were I to use the slotted antisqueal shim. Big issue now is the boot and how to get the caliper to close the gap and allow the slider pin to fit back where it belongs. Problem solved! Massaged the dust boot with my fingers and then got no wrinkles when pushing in the piston. Pushed inbound on the bottom slider assembly and it cleared the attachment mount quick nicely. Easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blk_on_blk Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 Awesome! Sorry I was a bit slow getting back to your PM. Sounds like you figured it all out nicely... excellent!!! Just as a follow up to your question, I'm posting a few pictures of where I chose to jack up the vehicle with. I've always had nice solid jacking at these points (as opposed to where I saw the guy at Discount Tire trying to jack up my vehicle right on the seam of the pinch on the underside of the rocker panel; I know some people say it's an okay location to jack the vehicle, but I hate to have it jacked up there). Again, kudos to a job well done... a not-too-difficult of an afternoon and you've got all new brakes with extra $$$ in your wallet... can't beat that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deachgo Posted May 8, 2009 Share Posted May 8, 2009 I broke the long bolt that hold the rear brake caliper and half of it is still in the cylinder. the car (RX300) is still driveable but don't know how to get it out. Any advice? I did the samething on a rx330 wd-40 it is a slider pin that only has a few threads near the head of the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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