acflye Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 $475...ouch....that's the price for upper control arms and i have sticker shock......does anyone know where to find these cheaper......changed out the lower ball joints, tie rod ends and had a lil play in the Upper arm.......ready to buy a used one but it may have more wear than mines.......but is it alot cheaper.........any advice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bali26 Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Arnott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stroker Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 Arnott has them complete with bushings and ball joints for 200. for the pair... Arnott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acflye Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 is that the name of the company? is there a website.....thanks Arnott has them complete with bushings and ball joints for 200. for the pair...Arnott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Arnott Industries. www.arnottindustries.com http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LEXUS...Parts_yid7.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acflye Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 YOU GUYS ARE COOL....WENT TO THE WEBSITE AND ORDERED THE UPPER CONTROL ARMS FOR $199.......THANKS......... Arnott Industries.www.arnottindustries.com http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_LEXUS...Parts_yid7.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amcdonal86 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Awesome. Glad I could help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pishta Posted April 6, 2009 Share Posted April 6, 2009 Awesome. Glad I could help. Just did mine, it is a pleasure to drive again. No noise from the front suspension going over small bumps and undulations in the road. I was getting a "something is loose up there" noise whenever I went over a n oticeable bump. I took mine off, checked them out and didnt really see anything wrong, but the ball joint was as loose as a joystick on a Pacman game. I couldnt feel any play in it but I couldnt put as much force on it as the car does. about 90 minutes total, the first side being 60 of those. I am very happy the shock didnt need to be compressed to be pulled, that would have been a bummer. I would like to advise that if you are doing one side at a time, you need to unbolt the swaybar link so the lower control arm can be lowered enough to unstress the shock and get the bolt out. Otherwise you are working on a still compressed shock, dangerous. Another hint. REuse the original castle nut as the one supplied is thinner and ends up above the cotter pin hole, rendering the cotter pin useless at retaining the nut torque, Or use a washer as stated before. I am going to try and replace the ball joint with a shelf item just to see if I can as the bushings are still tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsmith20 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Awesome. Glad I could help. Just did mine, it is a pleasure to drive again. No noise from the front suspension going over small bumps and undulations in the road. I was getting a "something is loose up there" noise whenever I went over a n oticeable bump. I took mine off, checked them out and didnt really see anything wrong, but the ball joint was as loose as a joystick on a Pacman game. I couldnt feel any play in it but I couldnt put as much force on it as the car does. about 90 minutes total, the first side being 60 of those. I am very happy the shock didnt need to be compressed to be pulled, that would have been a bummer. I would like to advise that if you are doing one side at a time, you need to unbolt the swaybar link so the lower control arm can be lowered enough to unstress the shock and get the bolt out. Otherwise you are working on a still compressed shock, dangerous. Another hint. REuse the original castle nut as the one supplied is thinner and ends up above the cotter pin hole, rendering the cotter pin useless at retaining the nut torque, Or use a washer as stated before. I am going to try and replace the ball joint with a shelf item just to see if I can as the bushings are still tight. I notice this site is just for cars with air suspension...are the control arms the same with or without air? The pics look the same, just want to be sure. If so, they are able to sell these REALLY inexpensively :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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