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Posted

I changed the front and rear brake pads on my 91 LS400 today. I could not pull the rotors off to turn them because the very nice mechanic I paid to do the brakes the last time totally striped the heads of the Phillips head screws. I know I can get them out with an EZ out. But were can I get new ones. I would need 8. As there are two per wheel. Yep striped them all!!!!! Anyone know the specs on them???? Thank you in advance for you helps.


Posted
I got the screws at Lowes. In the metric screw drawer. Worked great.

I agree. Nothing special about these screws. Just get ones that match the size, from your favorite hardware store. Metric of course. As I recall, they are countersunk. Their main purpose appears to be alignment (that's what the countersink does). The lug nuts provide all the mechanical force - these screws just hold the rotor in place until the lug nuts are torqued down.

Posted

I thank you all for the info. WOW great link on the parts diagram. I'll save that. I wouls be happy to pick up the scews at the hardware store if anyone knows the specs?????

Posted
I thank you all for the info. WOW great link on the parts diagram. I'll save that. I wouls be happy to pick up the scews at the hardware store if anyone knows the specs?????

Sorry I was not clear on that. The head is torn up so you can not use a screw driver to get them out. That is what I ment by striped.

Posted
I thank you all for the info. WOW great link on the parts diagram. I'll save that. I wouls be happy to pick up the scews at the hardware store if anyone knows the specs?????

Sorry I was not clear on that. The head is torn up so you can not use a screw driver to get them out. That is what I ment by striped.

914;

Next time you go to remove the screws, a number 2 Phillips & a small ball peen hammer to tap the screwdriver head will help break the screws loose. The factory screws are brass and are very soft. I don't know why Lexus wouldn't have just used steel in the first place.

Posted

They did not use steel because of the force and heat which would seize them , This way they can be easily dilled out.

Posted
They did not use steel because of the force and heat which would seize them , This way they can be easily dilled out.

So now I know to make sure I replace them with brass as if "I' go with steel ones I may be setting myself with a real mess next time. Thanks you. Once again the voice of knowladge from SK.

Posted
They did not use steel because of the force and heat which would seize them , This way they can be easily dilled out.

Ah!.......OK, Makes sense. Thank You Sir!

Posted
Next time you go to remove the screws, a number 2 Phillips & a small ball peen hammer to tap the screwdriver head will help break the screws loose. The factory screws are brass and are very soft.

Or you can give the screws a shot of Blaster PB Penetrating Catalyst. It works great. It was recommended when I was doing research before starting my Starter project. I even used it to get a screw loose on my single-handed shower valve when I needed to replace a washer.

Posted

PB Blaster is amazing. I posted how I was having continual problems with my drivers side window controller. I kept taking it apart, cleaning and adjusting the springs, etc., and still had problems. So one day in frustration, I took the controller apart, sprayed it with a light touch of PB-and Voila! 4 years later, all the windows still work great.

Now another use. My bathroom shower has that spout with the pull up doobie when you want a shower, not a bath. My Dad used to call it a diverter valve. Recently, for about six months, the pull up doobie got stiff and I had to pound it to get it to seat, so the water could drain competely. It worked, but the guts were also whining an obnoxious squeal when the water was turned on. So I lubed it with WD-40, greased it in and out, but nothing worked. Driven to distraction, I sprayed the valve with PB. Voila! Problem solved, works like a charm. Must have dissolved soap scum and stuff, I guess. Amazing product....

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