Ps Fluid Leaking From Oil Pan

[bwilterink]

I am sure my PS fluid is leaking and my 1994 LS blows some white smoke on startup. The PS fluid is leaking from the oil pan. My question is, how is the fluid dripping off my oil pan? How is it getting there? It seems the leak is coming from above the oil pan but it drips from the pan.

I read some of the other forums on this and right now i will just plan on cleaning the screen at the bottom of the PS pump and the one in the solenoid, also I might replace the pressure valve.

[93ls400walt]

power steering lines run along the oil pan from/to the trans. from the pump

[bwilterink]

It's leaking from the oil filter side of the oil pan which is the drivers side, it's also the side that the solenoid is on. I just need to know if there are any lines running above there. I put a die in the PS fluid that I bought at NAPA and I'm waiting for that to start bleeding through so it will leave a trail

[eatingupblacktop]

I read some of the other forums on this and right now i will just plan on cleaning the screen at the bottom of the PS pump and the one in the solenoid, also I might replace the pressure valve.

You've got the right idea and when you do what you've listed, you'll find where it's leaking from. Make sure all hoses are in good condition (no cracks at the ends) and securely connected when you finish.

[IS400]

It's leaking from the oil filter side of the oil pan which is the drivers side, it's also the side that the solenoid is on. I just need to know if there are any lines running above there. I put a die in the PS fluid that I bought at NAPA and I'm waiting for that to start bleeding through so it will leave a trail

If you look at the oil filter from below, you will see a 'hoop' of rubber power steering line that is right in your face. It looks like you could hang a coat hanger from it. That rubber line has a connection at the end that is toward the bumper that is a metal tubing junction that cracked and failed on mine.

Last week, just before a long trip, I had noticed a drip of ps fluid on my driveway. After putting the car up on stands in the front and wiping everything off, I ran the car for ten seconds while rotating the wheel from lock to lock. After getting underneath I saw that where the rubber 'hoop' section connected to the metal line going up to the engine, it was wet with ps fluid.

I made two end caps from plastic tubing and duct tape so that when I removed the line I would not lose too much fluid. The end closest to the drivers seat was simple, it slid right off after the usual liquid wrench, wait ten minutes routine. The bumper side of the rubber line was TERRIBLE!

I found out why when it released after getting medieval with the vise grips, the metal inside the rubber had actually failed and cracked just above the clamp! Well that left a knarly metal tube to try to get my home made cap onto after pulling it free. Ps fluid everywhere and every tool felt like I was holding onto a slippery eel!

After a quick clean up I took the part to the local store and got a foot of heavy duty tubing that was a little under sized and four high quality hose clamps.

Again the drivers side of the loop was easy to put back on, but the bumper side took ten minutes just to ease the tube on and get the clamp where I wanted it.

I topped off the reservoir, did the usual left and right to clear the air and left it alone over night with the cap off the reservoir.

In the morning I started it up and had no noise or bubbles and took it for a drive and did full power starts and high speed runs on the highway to make sure I would not have a leak in my repair on my trip. No leaks, no nothing and I have a better feel back in the steering.

Another repair that comes from years and years of small body movements that fatigue metal tubing. Like the EGR tube issue I guess, without the severe heat cycling.

BTW I used one of the clamps to keep the tubing from crimping itself off at the bottom of the loop. Buying a longer length of tubing might have made that unnecessary if you try the repair yourself.

Now I have to look up the actual part and see what I saved and if I should swap it out for the real one in the future.

[bwilterink]

It's leaking from the oil filter side of the oil pan which is the drivers side, it's also the side that the solenoid is on. I just need to know if there are any lines running above there. I put a die in the PS fluid that I bought at NAPA and I'm waiting for that to start bleeding through so it will leave a trail

If you look at the oil filter from below, you will see a 'hoop' of rubber power steering line that is right in your face. It looks like you could hang a coat hanger from it. That rubber line has a connection at the end that is toward the bumper that is a metal tubing junction that cracked and failed on mine.

Last week, just before a long trip, I had noticed a drip of ps fluid on my driveway. After putting the car up on stands in the front and wiping everything off, I ran the car for ten seconds while rotating the wheel from lock to lock. After getting underneath I saw that where the rubber 'hoop' section connected to the metal line going up to the engine, it was wet with ps fluid.

I made two end caps from plastic tubing and duct tape so that when I removed the line I would not lose too much fluid. The end closest to the drivers seat was simple, it slid right off after the usual liquid wrench, wait ten minutes routine. The bumper side of the rubber line was TERRIBLE!

I found out why when it released after getting medieval with the vise grips, the metal inside the rubber had actually failed and cracked just above the clamp! Well that left a knarly metal tube to try to get my home made cap onto after pulling it free. Ps fluid everywhere and every tool felt like I was holding onto a slippery eel!

After a quick clean up I took the part to the local store and got a foot of heavy duty tubing that was a little under sized and four high quality hose clamps.

Again the drivers side of the loop was easy to put back on, but the bumper side took ten minutes just to ease the tube on and get the clamp where I wanted it.

I topped off the reservoir, did the usual left and right to clear the air and left it alone over night with the cap off the reservoir.

In the morning I started it up and had no noise or bubbles and took it for a drive and did full power starts and high speed runs on the highway to make sure I would not have a leak in my repair on my trip. No leaks, no nothing and I have a better feel back in the steering.

Another repair that comes from years and years of small body movements that fatigue metal tubing. Like the EGR tube issue I guess, without the severe heat cycling.

BTW I used one of the clamps to keep the tubing from crimping itself off at the bottom of the loop. Buying a longer length of tubing might have made that unnecessary if you try the repair yourself.

Now I have to look up the actual part and see what I saved and if I should swap it out for the real one in the future.

Well, thank you for the detailed description. I'll check it out. Today I cleaned the filter(filthy) in the solenoid and the PS resevoir and also I plugged the AC valve, I put everything back together and flushed the lines. This ended up being quite a chore because none of that has been touched in 14 years. Once I got everything back on, I looked and behold there was the drip coming from the same spot. I was going to take it to the Lexus dealer tomorrow but I'll put that on hold. Thank you

[IS400]

I did all those things too. It has been a year or so since and this leak just showed up. Like I mentioned, it did not leak unless the engine was running, so make sure to do that after you wipe things down. Good luck!

[bwilterink]

I did all those things too. It has been a year or so since and this leak just showed up. Like I mentioned, it did not leak unless the engine was running, so make sure to do that after you wipe things down. Good luck!

Well I've looked and I know what PS line you are talking about but I think it's leaking from above there. I took it to the Lexus dealer today and I told the mechanic what was going on and he said it is likely the rack and pinion. They are going to work on it Monday and see what the problem is. Thanks IS400 for your help.

Has anybody had the rack and pinion replaced on their 1ST gen LS400? How much did it cost? or can someone give me an estimate on what this should cost?

[IS400]

Ouch! If you do a search on here I think you will find a lot of discussions about it. They are quite expensive I think. Glad I could help with what had happened to mine, anytime I find an easy or cheap repair I try to let the rest of you know so we can stay out of the dealership as much as possible!

[python]

i had mine done a little over 2 years ago....i replaced everything, rack,pump and hoses....cost me somewhere between 1000-1500 dollars

rack=400

pump=200

pressure hose=150

return hose about 35 but u can use tranny cooler line hose from Napa for a lot less on the return line

then the labor...i think it was 3 hours or more for the rack, 1.9 for the pump, 1 hr. for the hoses, then u have the fluid...i also had mine flushed as soon as it was all together

make sure u use power steering fluid and not dexron3 because of the anti foaming agents

[LS430forme]

i had mine done a little over 2 years ago....i replaced everything, rack,pump and hoses....cost me somewhere between 1000-1500 dollars

rack=400

pump=200

pressure hose=150

return hose about 35 but u can use tranny cooler line hose from Napa for a lot less on the return line

then the labor...i think it was 3 hours or more for the rack, 1.9 for the pump, 1 hr. for the hoses, then u have the fluid...i also had mine flushed as soon as it was all together

make sure u use power steering fluid and not dexron3 because of the anti foaming agents

The cost of the parts you've shown are OEM or aftermarket or rebuilt parts? I have checked Lexus Ultimate OEM Parts website and they quoted PS Pump and Pressure hose for more than $900.

Should I use Toyota PS Fluid or generic fluid? Thanks for your help.