AnLex01 Posted May 4, 2008 Posted May 4, 2008 Hi My lexus has a starting problem. Sometimes it starts right away, but other times it might take up to 5 starts. When turning the key, it runs 1-5 seconds and stall. I have read the engine codes and there are no error codes found. "check engine" is also ok. I have wondered, if the trouble would be -fuel pump -fuel pump relay -fuel pump resistor? If any of you have suggestions, I would appreciate if you could share them with me. Sincerely yours, Antero
cardona6569 Posted May 5, 2008 Posted May 5, 2008 Change the fuel filter and see what happens, the fuel pump may be a good candidate, try to see if it is working. To see if it the fuel pump, spray some Throtlle body cleaner in the Throtlle body, if it starts very fast and then it stalls it is a the pump. That a mech taught me and my car had a bad pump. CPR
SKperformance Posted May 5, 2008 Posted May 5, 2008 Great topic title , it gets right to the point with all details. The first thing to check is the little red alarm light on the dash flashing after you insert the key. If it is still flashing ,the key is not recognized and is shutting the car down.
AnLex01 Posted May 14, 2008 Author Posted May 14, 2008 Great topic title , it gets right to the point with all details.The first thing to check is the little red alarm light on the dash flashing after you insert the key. If it is still flashing ,the key is not recognized and is shutting the car down. Yes, it could be an immobilezer symptom. The red alarm light is not flashing when engine stall. But where the symptom is and how to find out? The ECU does not report any error codes, and i'm not able to identify any factors which may be affecting the car (ie, weather, hot vs cold engine, etc). Sometimes the engine will start at the first attempt for several days, before it begins stalling immediately after it starts. The engine will remain running after 2-5 attempts to start, during last two weeks will take so many that battery had died two times! Note that after the engine has stalled, attempting to immediately restart will just cause the engine to crank, but not fire. The ignition needs to be turned fully off before attempting to restart it. -How to check the wires of GR-R IMO 23e and GR-G 24e IMI of EDU. How many wolts? Thanks, AnLex
SKperformance Posted May 15, 2008 Posted May 15, 2008 take off the key the chain and only insert it by itself and not with a bunch of other keys.
AnLex01 Posted June 15, 2008 Author Posted June 15, 2008 The malfunction of starting is real now: Engine stall briefly after starting. Immobilizer stops the engine in 1- 3 seconds and after many cranking it only gives some promises. After many door shut/open by key outside it starts nicely... Toyota code reader says: DTC B2775. “Interior Verification Abnormal to Theft Deterrent ECU”. The code is inspected with inspection procedure: Smar Key works, all keys OK. Result: No problem at this time! ??? The problem is between the RFID of the Key and the Steering Lock ECU of the Transponder Key Ampli-fier & the Theft Deterrent ECU ( = Immobilizer of Toyota) . The lawfulness information is carried to Main ECU by Body Electrician Are Net via Gate Way ECU. Conclusion of a work shop: It is supposed to take from 8 hours to one week to fix malfunction of B2775 (which says “No problem at this time”)? Do you know this system to define where to start inspection? Thanks, Antero PS How to remove the garnish and the finish panel assembly of the instrument panel to find out the Theft Deterrent ECU for checking ? The woody carnish is too pretty to damage.
Mr SC 430 Posted May 6, 2015 Posted May 6, 2015 Try checking your evp lines see if they are cracked then change the vacuum switch valve that will solve your problem.
sha4000 Posted May 7, 2015 Posted May 7, 2015 This thread is 7 years old so I think they got it figures out long ago.
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