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Cluster Warning Lights


Nickhere
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Hello all, great forum and happy to be here. I searched through all the threads relating to warning lights. I found no info. I think the "TRAC" light needs relamped. It doesn't come on when starting. This is one of the lights that shines down onto the cluster. I'm thinking a good place to start is the 3 screws holding the strip up there? Anyone have any good tips?

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Hello all, great forum and happy to be here. I searched through all the threads relating to warning lights. I found no info. I think the "TRAC" light needs relamped. It doesn't come on when starting. This is one of the lights that shines down onto the cluster. I'm thinking a good place to start is the 3 screws holding the strip up there? Anyone have any good tips?

hey check out lexls.com in the tutorial section they schould have the full description on how to remove and relamp the lights

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Hello all, great forum and happy to be here. I searched through all the threads relating to warning lights. I found no info. I think the "TRAC" light needs relamped. It doesn't come on when starting. This is one of the lights that shines down onto the cluster. I'm thinking a good place to start is the 3 screws holding the strip up there? Anyone have any good tips?

hey check out lexls.com in the tutorial section they schould have the full description on how to remove and relamp the lights

Thats a great site, I didn't see an actual tutorial for those specific lights. Please correct me if I missed something. I'm thinking when i take the bezel ring off I'll see the lights at the top and can replace them from there. Not sure how their held in or which lamp to use, but when I take the bezel off I'm sure it will be clear.

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Relamped the "Trac" light and unfortunately it would come on after about 5 minutes of driving. I could hear the pump coming on repeatedly on the other side of the firewall prior to the system locking out. To me this meant the system wasn't holding pressure. I pulled the traclock package out of it place by unbolting it from inside the front left wheel well. I placed a towel on top of the wheel well and carefully pulled the package up and out without putting to much pressure on the brake line (I left it connected to the accumulator) and without scratching the paint. This exposed the high pressure line. I bled the accumulator (there is a bleeding port similar to a brake bleeding port where the high pressure hose connects) I pulled the high pressure hose off the pump side and the accumulator side. Cleaned the high pressure bolts and cleaned and treated the "O rings" and reinstalled and retorqued the hose. The trac lock system is functioning normally and no trac light. Problem fixed.

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Relamped the "Trac" light and unfortunately it would come on after about 5 minutes of driving. I could hear the pump coming on repeatedly on the other side of the firewall prior to the system locking out. To me this meant the system wasn't holding pressure. I pulled the traclock package out of it place by unbolting it from inside the front left wheel well. I placed a towel on top of the wheel well and carefully pulled the package up and out without putting to much pressure on the brake line (I left it connected to the accumulator) and without scratching the paint. This exposed the high pressure line. I bled the accumulator (there is a bleeding port similar to a brake bleeding port where the high pressure hose connects) I pulled the high pressure hose off the pump side and the accumulator side. Cleaned the high pressure bolts and cleaned and treated the "O rings" and reinstalled and retorqued the hose. The trac lock system is functioning normally and no trac light. Problem fixed.

You can often accomplish the same thing by COMPLETELY bleeding the brake system, including use of the bleed valves on the ABS pumpmotor (front passenger side of the engine bay) and the TC pumpmotor/accumulator assembly. If you have a dealer do a brake bleed/flush be sure and tell them of the two eaxtra/additional bleed valves. Another procedure some more knowledgeable Lexus dealers might use is to elevate the vehicle and "force" the TC to activate via driving the rrear wheels while elevated. Traction control will immediately activate thereby moving "fresh" brake fluid through the two pumpmotor systems. Now step lightly on the brake and ABS will activate...

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Relamped the "Trac" light and unfortunately it would come on after about 5 minutes of driving. I could hear the pump coming on repeatedly on the other side of the firewall prior to the system locking out. To me this meant the system wasn't holding pressure. I pulled the traclock package out of it place by unbolting it from inside the front left wheel well. I placed a towel on top of the wheel well and carefully pulled the package up and out without putting to much pressure on the brake line (I left it connected to the accumulator) and without scratching the paint. This exposed the high pressure line. I bled the accumulator (there is a bleeding port similar to a brake bleeding port where the high pressure hose connects) I pulled the high pressure hose off the pump side and the accumulator side. Cleaned the high pressure bolts and cleaned and treated the "O rings" and reinstalled and retorqued the hose. The trac lock system is functioning normally and no trac light. Problem fixed.

You can often accomplish the same thing by COMPLETELY bleeding the brake system, including use of the bleed valves on the ABS pumpmotor (front passenger side of the engine bay) and the TC pumpmotor/accumulator assembly. If you have a dealer do a brake bleed/flush be sure and tell them of the two eaxtra/additional bleed valves. Another procedure some more knowledgeable Lexus dealers might use is to elevate the vehicle and "force" the TC to activate via driving the rrear wheels while elevated. Traction control will immediately activate thereby moving "fresh" brake fluid through the two pumpmotor systems. Now step lightly on the brake and ABS will activate...

Thanks for the input WW, I did indeed read quite a few threads on the subject where the bottom line was to bleed the entire system. Although now my trac light is extinguished and the system seems to function normally perhaps there is more to my situation then a leaky O ring on the air line between the pump and the accumulator. I believe and correct me if I'm wrong, the bleed valve on the accumulator is specifically for bleeding only air pressure off the accumulator prior to removing the high pressure air line.

I have and do when given the oppurtunity i.e. a slick road, and safe conditions to throttle the car a bit to get the rears to break loose and exercise the system to move fluid through it. When I do this the trac light illuminates briefly as it is supposed to, to let me know its doing its job.

And again, appreciating your advice. I can use all I can get.

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