Nickhere

I had a problem with my trac light staying on, (92) I could hear the pump cycling on and off for the first 5 minutes after the car was running then the light would come on. I pulled the Tracloc assembly off the wheel well (3 or 4 bolts), then you can ease it up and out a little to gain access. Removed the high pressure air line from the accumulator and the pump and applied some "o-ring" lube to the o-rings on the fittings, put it all back together and no problems since. I thiink I left a post on here about it too. Good Luck

Afraid to answer, don't want to get any of your mojo...

Thats right, sidelight first, found the reciever /dryer under the passenger side.

I had the same problem, and I was sick of looking at that warning light, so I just changed all of the bulbs--problem solved. Lift the third brake light housing up and pull it towards the front of the car, and it will come out. I had the same problem, also the cruise would trip off, I just went ahead and replaced all the bulbs even though they functioned. No problems since.

I noticed a sticker underhood on my '99 saying to use iridium plugs. Is that good, or bad? Or, in other words, not as long-lasting as the platinums? This is the first I've heard of iridium plugs. Gene I believe iridiums are 90k plugs vs platinum which are 60k. The iridiums have even more heat resistence and allow the use of smaller guage electrodes for "crisper" more powerful spark.

www.RockAuto.com, www.trademotion.com

Good Luck,,, best bet is to remove the rear wheels and adjust...

I am curious about this method. At first I thought it would work but didn't have any luck with it. I began to think, the parking brake is a separate system with its own cable and shoes. So my question to the board is: how can driving in reverse and braking hard adjust the parking brake in light of the fact that in this case your using the disc brakes and not the parking brake? Perhaps driving in reverse and setting the parking brake?

92 Ls here, there is an adjustment up under the car above the drive shaft, this adjustment will tighten the cable and give the parking brake pedal less throw. The other is inside the disk brake itself (unbelievable but effective design) and adjust the parking brake shoes (inside the rotor hub) out with the adjuster spin screw. The adjustment is accessed from the outboard side of the rotor hub. A small rubber plug can be popped out and the adjuster is at 6 oclock. The manual says adjust it to full friction lock (clockwise) then back it off 8 clicks. When I did mine I didn't have to adjust the cable as the peddle now goes about 2/3s of the way to the floor and the brakes set well.

I have the HydroEdge on my 92 LS, I had Falkens' prior, they were horrible, the Hydroedge are an big improvement, as others say, a tad noisey, but I wouldn't say really bad. They handle well, though I've only had them on there for about 2k miles, thus far pretty decent. I bought them new on Craigs for about half of a new tire price, so, Im happy about that as well.

Congrats!!! Trac off light still on?

Get a new one.

Check out http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/cat_index.asp This is an awesome source for part numbers and illustrations and they give discounts to members of this site and another.

Maybe pull the head unit out and disassemble a bit to see if you can get the money out of it? I need to pull my rr door panel off as the speaker is blown. I have a pioneer system on the 92 and I had replaced the sub a few months back. I found it was a 2 ohm sub difficult to replace with anything other then stock. I'm wondering, are the door speakers 2 ohm speakers also? Anyone know?

Odd, sounds like a loose or corroded ground wire, the one that comes off the negative post of the battery. Where it connects to the block.

www.rockauto.com

Its the same, did it today, there is an adjustment up under the car above the drive shaft, this adjustment will tighten the cable and give the parking brake pedal less throw. The other is inside the disk brake itself (unbelievable but effective design) and adjust the parking brake shoes out with the adjuster spin screws as nc211 says. Only the adjustment is accessed from the outboard side of the rotor. a small rubber plug pops out and the adjuster is at 6 oclock. As the manual says adjust it to full friction lock (clockwise) then back it off 8 clicks. And now that the thing is at a good starting point I will go fast in reverse and brake hard to self adjust from now on.

Is this procedure the same on a 92Ls?

I replaced the mast on my 92 ls today. I used the lexls tutorial as well. Took the unit out, opened it, removed all the "dead" antenna debris, (there were 3 different pieces) cleaned up some of the old lube. Hooked the unit back onto the car and verified it was in the down position by turning the radio on then off and watching the drive gear move first in one direction then the other. Put the unit back on the bench and fed the nylon feed down into the unit. I reached a stopping point and had to pull the drive gear up and out to feed the nylon all the way in till the mast bottomed. Reinstalled the drive gear then wrapped the nylon feed up and into the plastic drum, applied a bit of lube and closed it up. Installed the unit in the car and it works like a champ. Radio reception has improved as well, especially on AM. Thanks all!!!

You can often accomplish the same thing by COMPLETELY bleeding the brake system, including use of the bleed valves on the ABS pumpmotor (front passenger side of the engine bay) and the TC pumpmotor/accumulator assembly. If you have a dealer do a brake bleed/flush be sure and tell them of the two eaxtra/additional bleed valves. Another procedure some more knowledgeable Lexus dealers might use is to elevate the vehicle and "force" the TC to activate via driving the rrear wheels while elevated. Traction control will immediately activate thereby moving "fresh" brake fluid through the two pumpmotor systems. Now step lightly on the brake and ABS will activate... Thanks for the input WW, I did indeed read quite a few threads on the subject where the bottom line was to bleed the entire system. Although now my trac light is extinguished and the system seems to function normally perhaps there is more to my situation then a leaky O ring on the air line between the pump and the accumulator. I believe and correct me if I'm wrong, the bleed valve on the accumulator is specifically for bleeding only air pressure off the accumulator prior to removing the high pressure air line. I have and do when given the oppurtunity i.e. a slick road, and safe conditions to throttle the car a bit to get the rears to break loose and exercise the system to move fluid through it. When I do this the trac light illuminates briefly as it is supposed to, to let me know its doing its job. And again, appreciating your advice. I can use all I can get.

what is an immobilizer?

Relamped the "Trac" light and unfortunately it would come on after about 5 minutes of driving. I could hear the pump coming on repeatedly on the other side of the firewall prior to the system locking out. To me this meant the system wasn't holding pressure. I pulled the traclock package out of it place by unbolting it from inside the front left wheel well. I placed a towel on top of the wheel well and carefully pulled the package up and out without putting to much pressure on the brake line (I left it connected to the accumulator) and without scratching the paint. This exposed the high pressure line. I bled the accumulator (there is a bleeding port similar to a brake bleeding port where the high pressure hose connects) I pulled the high pressure hose off the pump side and the accumulator side. Cleaned the high pressure bolts and cleaned and treated the "O rings" and reinstalled and retorqued the hose. The trac lock system is functioning normally and no trac light. Problem fixed.

hey check out lexls.com in the tutorial section they schould have the full description on how to remove and relamp the lights Thats a great site, I didn't see an actual tutorial for those specific lights. Please correct me if I missed something. I'm thinking when i take the bezel ring off I'll see the lights at the top and can replace them from there. Not sure how their held in or which lamp to use, but when I take the bezel off I'm sure it will be clear.

My goodness..... That is one HOT looking............... LS.... OH,,, nice pic of IS too,,, what a woman... Major repairs on the car and all that too???

I had the same problem and replaced the switches. They are located in the door jams under a rubber cover. The replacement switch will come with a harness and a plug, (about $15 at Park Place online). Rather then dig into the trim work the plunger part of the switch can be replaced by removing the nylock tiewrap and pulling out the releases on either side of the switch. The contacts will come out with a slight pull. Clean the contact surfaces and install in the new plunger. Add the small nylock and set the rubber and install in the car. Done.