Valve Shims, Pain In The Butt To Remove Far End Shim.

[osucool]

Does anyone have any words of wisdom for Valve Clearance Shim removal?

I have one valve that needs a new shim. (An Intake Valve measuring .013 clearance ) Its The one on drivers side nearest the firewall.

I have successfully removed this shim on my spare engine which is on an engine stand but even when it is completely out in the open it is still a pain in the butt to get the spacer tool to rest on the edge of the valve tappet. I know what needs to happen but I can't get lucky with this Toyota-Lexus Shim Removal set.

I created a small fish hook looking piece to grab the hole in the shim to help removal but with the engine in the car this is a rough job to free up the shim.

Is there another easy way (bearing cap removal ....etc) or any other method that may help.

After struggling with the engine in the car I am tempted to seal valve covers back up and live with it before I screw up a cam lobe or something.

Words of advice are welcomed.

Thanks

[grnsc40095]

osucool, The link below might be of assistance?

http://www.lextreme.com/tech_maintenance.html

[osucool]

Thanks for the link, that is what I have. A very good representation of the timing marks as well. They make it look so easy with Special Service Tools SST A & SST B.

I wonder:

Has anyone used these with Success.

Has anyone successfully re-installed a shim after using these. They tend to create a burr which interferes with shim install.

[osucool]

OK, I am answering myself again,

Some words of advice after I have success with the valve shim swap.

1.) The standard issue valve tools are kind of cheap but they do ~ function. I was too harsh on them previously

2.) Find a suitable spot for the cam lobe so it does not interfere with the compressor tool.

3.) Before compressing, Locate the shim hole in a spot where you can get your air nozzle. (see #12)

4.) When you are deciding which end of the spacer tool to use Keep in mind , it is OK to use the smaller end. Really.

5.) When you think your spacer tool is in the right place, it is - when you can move the shim but not the valve. (Try again)

6.) After you remove a shim do not even think about removing the spacer tool unless you have a very easy spot.

7.) If your spacer tool slips out you will spend some hours trying to re-establish a good position on the edge of the valve that will not interfere with the shim-reinstall. (Unless you are on an engine stand with direct sight or you have one of the valves that are more easily accessible)

8.) If you happen to think you can rotate the engine with the shim removed, you can, but you will spend countless hours trying to remove the burr you created as the Cam Lobe moved over the edge of the un compressed valve where the shim is supposed to be. My Ebay spare motor (on the stand I was using as a test subject) may now be questionable with some shavings created.

9.) Stuff some rags in the spots where the shim may fly out and never come back from.

10.) Make sure your magnet is good enough to hold the shim by itself.

11.) Make sure you have a good mirror & lights.

12.) Get an air nozzle set up that will fit down into, yes into, the hole on the shim. I used a standard air gun nozzle connected to a rubber vacuum hose and a vacuum fitting with a very small nozzle that would fit into the shim hole.

13.) I found it very helpful to have a small hook tool that could insert into the hole. (.062 rod - bend the end at 90deg - as short a bend as possible)

Hopefully this long rambling will help some other soul that feels the need to adjust their own valves.

It is a piece of Cake. Not sure what kind though.