Legend of Josh Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 Hello everyone, I'm new here (in fact this is my first post). I just purchased a 1992 SC 400 (previously had a 1994 GS 300). Just a few details about the vehicle before I ask a couple questions and seek some suggestions. 98,500 miles Beige / champaign color (a few scratches) 1 owner FL Clean title Interior in great shape Paid $6000 for it. It appears to be in great shape mechanically. I'm looking to make this a project car; which entails spending more money obviously. I had a few questions and/or suggestions. What can do I about the yellow-ish headlights (my GS had this issue, but after a fender-bender got new ones)? I'm not looking to buy brand new ones (any aftermarkets worth checking out?). How can I go about cleaning these headlights? I'm looking to put some custom wheels on here. Not 20's. This vehicle is not made for 20's however I see them quite often on these SCs ... I don't get it. I think 18's might even be pushing it, but I'm highly considering 18's. Any suggestions on how safe and comfortable this vehicle will be on 18's? I'm thinking about 18" Verde 5ives (they look sweet, and they're reasonably priced). Now a more important questions / suggestion. I'm looking to do a paint job. I know it's going to be expensive, but just how much you think? I'm not doing no Maaco garbage; I want it done right. How about some price ranges for the following: Repaint - original beige / gold color Black Candy Apple-like Red (glossy) Royal Sapphire Blue (glossy) This vehicle has the gold lettering if that helps your suggestions. Thanks!
JIBBBY Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 I personally would not spend more the $1500 for a factory quality paint job... Ding removal included... Yelowish lights.. You can get the best deal on EBay for like new headlamps... Or you can restore your old ones as follows.. 1) Remove the headlamps from the car 2) Put the two headlamps in you over for 10-15 minutes at 450 degrees...This loosens the glue.. 3) Peal off the yellowish lenses from the headlamp casing.. 4) Remove all the old excess glue and black silicone from the casing 5) Go to a auto parts store and ask for their best plexi glass cleaner and silicone gasket sealant.. 6) Use the plexi glass cleaner on both side of the yellowish lenses to make clear again.. 7) Grab the headlamp casing and put the new silicone sealant wear the old was and reinstall the lenses carefully...Allow to dry.. 8) Reinstall the headlamps on the car and you will have that new car look... Hope that helps...
Legend of Josh Posted October 19, 2007 Author Posted October 19, 2007 JIBBBY - thanks for your suggestions. Is your 92 SC 400 the original factory paint? I was thinking about keeping the original color, but I don't know. ___ Thanks for your step by step instructions on removal and cleaning of the lamps. I'm very new to this... so you'll have to excuse my level of knowledge (or lack thereof!). 1) How do remove the headlamps from the frame of the car? 2) What are the yellowish lenses? Do you mean the lenses that protect the lights (I got confused from yellowish as if they're dirty too). 3) I'm assuming the glue and black silicone will be highly visible once loosened (in case I need to already know where it is before hand) 4) How do you reinstall the headlamps? Wow, I'm such a noob at this stuff. Thanks for being patient with me!
schott1984 Posted October 19, 2007 Posted October 19, 2007 Here ya go, hope this helps! Go to techinfo.toyota.com to get access to the full factory service manual for your car. headligh.pdf
JIBBBY Posted October 20, 2007 Posted October 20, 2007 No my paint is not factory, I had paid $1000 for a very nice same color paint job...It is a good idea to keep the same color, because if you ever get a chip or scratch the under paint will be the same color...Also the trim around the car won't bleed a different color... My paint job came out like new... When you remove the entire headlamp from each side the yellowish lense will be glued on to the casing... The lense is what you see on the outside of the car which you are not happy with... Yes the glue is the black silicone... Which keeps the lenses attached to the casing to prevent moisture from getting inside the headlamps where the bulbs are located...
Legend of Josh Posted October 22, 2007 Author Posted October 22, 2007 Thanks for all the help and suggestions. Thanks for the manual file. This vehicle did not have the manual when I purchased unfortunately. I really had the opportunity to "break it in" this weekend. I'm very pleased with the handling, performance etc. There's no doubt, nothing drives like a Lexus!
schott1984 Posted October 22, 2007 Posted October 22, 2007 They will never come with that manual unless the previous owner purchased it. And I think it's a couple hundred bucks for that couple hundred page manual. It's the manual that a Lexus dealer would use for fixing your car.
Legend of Josh Posted October 22, 2007 Author Posted October 22, 2007 In that case, thanks - I really appreciate the link.
alexus93 Posted October 27, 2007 Posted October 27, 2007 Legend of Josh - I am not sure if this is going to be useful, but I hope you verified if the car had timing belt changed. The SCs need a belt change at the 90K mark. If that hasn't been done, I strongly recommend you do it, cause there is no fail-safe for that. While the belt is not all that expensive, having it done by a professional is advisable - and due to its labor intensity - it is an expensive job.
V8 Cat Posted October 28, 2007 Posted October 28, 2007 Legend of Josh, Have the waterpump and thermostat replaced while they are doing the timing belt. If you do this it will save some problems later and doesn't cost that much while they have things apart.
JIBBBY Posted October 28, 2007 Posted October 28, 2007 If I may I chime in...... Changing the original water pump when doing the timing belt is a very good idea...As the life expectancy of the water pump is proven not to last as long as the actual timing belts themselves... Just so you know, when replacing the timing belts this requires you to remove all the surrounding plastics around the motor which is labor intensive. So in doing so you gain assess to the water pump area...So in a sense you should be charged almost nothing for the labor of the water pump change when the timing belts are being replaced..... A little information to consider for you...
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