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1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15


indiana

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Code58,

Thank you for the reply, I appreciate you taking time to offer advice.

I had wondered if my electrical tap location (I tapped down low near the OEM actuator, not near the switches like you did in the photos) was the culprit, but now I agree with what you said. I'll have to make time to pull the door panel again and inspect that grey cable. My problem was that I was not able to see the pictures on Saturday when I was doing the work, so I was piecing it together by reading the posts. Had I seen the pictures I would have realized to drill my hole for the new actuator rod farther from that existing slot where the grey cable rides. I guess some common sense should have kicked in, but too often mine doesn't. I'll have to check it out and then come up with a way to secure the grey cable once it's in the proper place and functioning. Zip ties might be just what the doctor ordered.

Thank you again. I'll post a reply once I get it tore down and inspected, might be a couple weeks since my schedule is pretty full.

Thanks,

PL

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Code58,

Thank you for the reply, I appreciate you taking time to offer advice.

I had wondered if my electrical tap location (I tapped down low near the OEM actuator, not near the switches like you did in the photos) was the culprit, but now I agree with what you said. I'll have to make time to pull the door panel again and inspect that grey cable. My problem was that I was not able to see the pictures on Saturday when I was doing the work, so I was piecing it together by reading the posts. Had I seen the pictures I would have realized to drill my hole for the new actuator rod farther from that existing slot where the grey cable rides. I guess some common sense should have kicked in, but too often mine doesn't. I'll have to check it out and then come up with a way to secure the grey cable once it's in the proper place and functioning. Zip ties might be just what the doctor ordered.

Thank you again. I'll post a reply once I get it tore down and inspected, might be a couple weeks since my schedule is pretty full.

Thanks,

PL

PL- you're right, it would make no difference where you tapped into the wires. I believe I tapped where I did because I had done the twist on the wires that I had extended the actuator wires with and just did the connection there because I had identified the wires there and it took it away from the opening in the door. If you can get the thin, long Zip ties like they use in electronics (I like them and use them a lot because they're strong and very flexible), I think the 1 zip tie in the choke hold manner would be the best. It would put plenty of pressure into the slot on the gray fitting.

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Hello All

It's great to see others expanding on the original adaptation. I originally was going to try the door switch adaptation, but decided not to, I can't remember why, but as long as it works that's all that matters. It looks a little easier than inside the door also. Awesome job to all and "You are welcome" to all the thank you's posted. I am happy to help.... I would like to give my "Thank you!" to all that contributed on this topic.... :) Indy

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Hello All

It's great to see others expanding on the original adaptation. I originally was going to try the door switch adaptation, but decided not to, I can't remember why, but as long as it works that's all that matters. It looks a little easier than inside the door also. Awesome job to all and "You are welcome" to all the thank you's posted. I am happy to help.... I would like to give my "Thank you!" to all that contributed on this topic.... :) Indy

Indy- Aren't you grateful for forums and the community team effort that they entail. When I think of all the help that is available to people who need it that wasn't there even 20 years ago, I want to say God Bless whoever invented the internet (and I'm pretty sure it WASN'T Al Gore) :lol: I found these sites AFTER I figured out how to do it on all 4 of the doors on my DIL's RX, boy do I wish I had found (sites) them BEFORE!

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Hello All

It's great to see others expanding on the original adaptation. I originally was going to try the door switch adaptation, but decided not to, I can't remember why, but as long as it works that's all that matters. It looks a little easier than inside the door also. Awesome job to all and "You are welcome" to all the thank you's posted. I am happy to help.... I would like to give my "Thank you!" to all that contributed on this topic.... :) Indy

Indy- Aren't you grateful for forums and the community team effort that they entail. When I think of all the help that is available to people who need it that wasn't there even 20 years ago, I want to say God Bless whoever invented the internet (and I'm pretty sure it WASN'T Al Gore) :lol: I found these sites AFTER I figured out how to do it on all 4 of the doors on my DIL's RX, boy do I wish I had found (sites) them BEFORE!

Yes I am grateful. The internet has brought a world closer together that was far apart at one time. We can see things that we would have never dreamed of. I think of a passage in revelations that said we would be able to travel from one place to another in a matter of seconds (I paraphrase) I wonder if this means the internet...?

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Yes I am grateful. The internet has brought a world closer together that was far apart at one time. We can see things that we would have never dreamed of. I think of a passage in revelations that said we would be able to travel from one place to another in a matter of seconds (I paraphrase) I wonder if this means the internet...?

I think it's called the rapture, Indiana. :)

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  • 1 month later...

Code58,

OK, so today i removed the door panel and sure enough the grey-collared cable (top cable in the pic above) had slipped off the black plastic frame. I slid it back in place and used two plastic zip ties to "lock" it back in place and everything works fine now. Just thought I'd update my post in case it should help anyone else.

Thanks again to all of you that contributed on this thread, it helped me a ton.

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Code58,

OK, so today i removed the door panel and sure enough the grey-collared cable (top cable in the pic above) had slipped off the black plastic frame. I slid it back in place and used two plastic zip ties to "lock" it back in place and everything works fine now. Just thought I'd update my post in case it should help anyone else.

Thanks again to all of you that contributed on this thread, it helped me a ton.

PL- Glad it was that simple- we're all here just to help (and learn a little along the way)! :D

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  • 3 weeks later...
What are the colors of the wires on the original lock mechanism, the ones that 2 wires on the piggyback actuator wires need to be T-ed into?

Are the blue and black wires the ones?

Thanks,

Solace

Solace- I'll try and find the 2 colors in the morning and post them. I have them written down in the garage and I've been re-organizing it and it's a mess but i'll find 'em for you.

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  • 4 weeks later...
Does anyone know the color of the wires that the work-around-solinoid for the door actuator needs to be sliced into?

Solace

My sincere apologies Solace- I told you I'd check for those and didn't get to it for a couple of days. When I did come across them recently I figured you had figured it out by then. In the loom that goes across the door back to the lock- the blue/red tracer is the lock wire and the blue/yellow tracer is the unlock wire. If the piggyback lock assy you bought has the green and blue wires, the green is the lock and the blue is the unlock. If it has different colors, it's easy to jump juice to each and then reverse them to determine which way it has to go to lock and unlock. Good Luck!

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  • 2 weeks later...
Thank you Code58. I placed "anyone" in bold letters to emphasize that I would accept help from anyone, kind of like an S-O-S. I hope you weren't offended. :D

Solace

Not in the least. I felt bad when I realized I'd gotten busy and hadn't done what I told you I would. I generally take it pretty seriously when I tell someone I'll do something and have been aware in recent time this is not the 1st time I've done this. Too much on my plate. I hope you got it all hooked up and working. Roger

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  • 1 month later...

Hello everyone,

I just bought a2001 rx 300 for my wife, and we have problem with the power door locks.

The remode never worked, :o and we have to open and lock all the doors manualy. :(

I have been reading the postings in this site, and i have to admit i am getting the pic, but i need to be explained more simpler,

if anyone lives around San Diego, Orane County area please let me know if you can help me. :)

thankyou.

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Hi All -

I have a 2001 RX with 2 door locks that no longer work. After reading this thread, I realize neither my husband nor I are handy enough to attempt this. I also got a quote from the dealer for $500 per door - not what I can afford spend on my car with 102500 miles on it.

So my question is - is there someone in the Dallas area anyone can recommend I take my RX to have this done?

Thanks in advance :)

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Hello everyone,

I just bought a2001 rx 300 for my wife, and we have problem with the power door locks.

The remode never worked, :o and we have to open and lock all the doors manualy. :(

I have been reading the postings in this site, and i have to admit i am getting the pic, but i need to be explained more simpler,

if anyone lives around San Diego, Orane County area please let me know if you can help me. :)

thankyou.

Can you explain a little more in detail exactly what's going on. When you say the remote never worked, does it also mean that you have NO power locks, that even the power lock button inside doesn't work? I live in Orange County, but that's about 90-100 mi. from San Diego. It is not likely that ALL your locks are bad at the same time. Sounds like it could be the master switch on the LF door. Or it could be the computer that the signal flows through. Have you checked ALL fuses? Under the hood and inside?

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Hi All -

I have a 2001 RX with 2 door locks that no longer work. After reading this thread, I realize neither my husband nor I are handy enough to attempt this. I also got a quote from the dealer for $500 per door - not what I can afford spend on my car with 102500 miles on it.

So my question is - is there someone in the Dallas area anyone can recommend I take my RX to have this done?

Thanks in advance :)

Too bad you're not on the west coast, I'd do it for you. It's not hard to do with all the help on here, but for someone who isn't used to doing things like that or used to working on their own car it's a little tough. Good Luck!

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Hello everyone,

I just bought a2001 rx 300 for my wife, and we have problem with the power door locks.

The remode never worked, :o and we have to open and lock all the doors manualy. :(

I have been reading the postings in this site, and i have to admit i am getting the pic, but i need to be explained more simpler,

if anyone lives around San Diego, Orane County area please let me know if you can help me. :)

thankyou.

Can you explain a little more in detail exactly what's going on. When you say the remote never worked, does it also mean that you have NO power locks, that even the power lock button inside doesn't work? I live in Orange County, but that's about 90-100 mi. from San Diego. It is not likely that ALL your locks are bad at the same time. Sounds like it could be the master switch on the LF door. Or it could be the computer that the signal flows through. Have you checked ALL fuses? Under the hood and inside?

Thanks for responding. What I am trying to say is that my car has power lock, but the power lock button does not work from inside or out, I checked the fuses inside the car and they seemed to be o.k, but I can't tell if the fuses under the hood are good or not. I hope I could have explained my problem better this time and I think you might be right about the master switch, I hope is not the computer because it sounds very expensive. If you have time, I will be very glad to meet you at your convenience. My mom lives in Orang County, so I can drive there any day.

Thanks for your help! :)

Veed

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Veed- I would use a volt meter (DVM) or test light to test the fuses under the hood to make sure that is not the problem. I will be gone for 2 weeks but will see when I get back if you have solved the problem or not.

Thanks code58, I checked all the fueses they seems to be working. I keep reading more about it. Happy holidays talk to you later.

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  • 5 months later...
Hello All

It's great to see others expanding on the original adaptation. I originally was going to try the door switch adaptation, but decided not to, I can't remember why, but as long as it works that's all that matters. It looks a little easier than inside the door also. Awesome job to all and "You are welcome" to all the thank you's posted. I am happy to help.... I would like to give my "Thank you!" to all that contributed on this topic.... :) Indy

Indy- Aren't you grateful for forums and the community team effort that they entail. When I think of all the help that is available to people who need it that wasn't there even 20 years ago, I want to say God Bless whoever invented the internet (and I'm pretty sure it WASN'T Al Gore) :lol: I found these sites AFTER I figured out how to do it on all 4 of the doors on my DIL's RX, boy do I wish I had found (sites) them BEFORE!

Yes I am grateful. The internet has brought a world closer together that was far apart at one time. We can see things that we would have never dreamed of. I think of a passage in revelations that said we would be able to travel from one place to another in a matter of seconds (I paraphrase) I wonder if this means the internet...?

THANK YOU to all who contributed. It took a while but more so because I had to get some parts, etc. I did the piggyback style and it worked out perfectly. The only thing I changed was that I did not flatten and create a hole on the end of the rod. Instead, I just used the other end of the rod and attached that part to the lock mechanism, then threaded the rod back to the actuator. Thanks!

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