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Just wondering if anyone writes (or would be willing to write) a tutorial on replacing the instrument lighting. I have seen it done in photos here and it looks really nice. The white/blue for the speedometer and such is easy on the eyes. I havn't been adventurous enough yet to take it out and look myself. So that would be great if anyone could do somthing. Thanks

BTW: 94' SC300

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Just wondering if anyone writes (or would be willing to write) a tutorial on replacing the instrument lighting. I have seen it done in photos here and it looks really nice. The white/blue for the speedometer and such is easy on the eyes. I havn't been adventurous enough yet to take it out and look myself. So that would be great if anyone could do somthing. Thanks

BTW: 94' SC300

There is a guy that owns a business and he does it. It is a pretty extensive switchout judging by what he says. You send hime your unit and he switches out the lighting and ships it back to you. If I remember correctly it is around $150.00 He also has auctions on Ebay offering the same service. Check out the modifications forum.......hope this helps ya some!

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Yea thanks, if it is to extensive then I don't think I will do it myself. I might look into that. If anyone has any other info that would be great! Thanks again.

I think it's lextech.org.

I sent my cluster to them on July 1 for needles and standard backlighting replacements. The cost is $120 + shipping both ways. I'll post the results of their service when I get it back.

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I think it's lextech.org.

I sent my cluster to them on July 1 for needles and standard backlighting replacements. The cost is $120 + shipping both ways. I'll post the results of their service when I get it back.

Awsome, I would like to see your results when you get it back. The ones I have seen so far have looked very nice, im sure they will look great! Thanks for the info btw.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I think it's lextech.org.

I sent my cluster to them on July 1 for needles and standard backlighting replacements. The cost is $120 + shipping both ways. I'll post the results of their service when I get it back.

Awsome, I would like to see your results when you get it back. The ones I have seen so far have looked very nice, im sure they will look great! Thanks for the info btw.

I got my instrument panel back in 14 days. (Removal and re-installation was easy.) The needles are functional. If you read all the info on the lextech website, they explain a number of things. Red needles are the dimmest but that is all you can use if your original needles are red, as mine were. The brightness of the needle falls off from center to tip thus are called "waterfall type" needles. When I installed mine, they worked OK. I can read where they are indicating. The needles do not look exactly like they are pictured on the website. I am not saying they are deceptive at all; I think it's an effect of the way they are photographed. With the naked eye, you can really see the waterfall effect, because they are pretty dim near the tip. They suggested it might be the instrument light dimmer, but that was already on full bright and didn't improve at other settings. BTW I also had them replace my backlighting as a preventative, and that came out fine.

I would say that for $120 + shipping 2 ways, I'm pretty satisfied. They don't compare to original, but for MUCH LESS $, they give you readable instruments. If you can use some of their brighter colors such as blue or white, they may be perfect. I'm glad there are specialty vendors that choose to provide such products.

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Just wondering if anyone writes (or would be willing to write) a tutorial on replacing the instrument lighting. I have seen it done in photos here and it looks really nice. The white/blue for the speedometer and such is easy on the eyes. I havn't been adventurous enough yet to take it out and look myself. So that would be great if anyone could do somthing. Thanks

BTW: 94' SC300

Nothing against LexTech, but you don't really need to send it to them for just changing out the backlighting. It's TOO easy, as long as you take your time and are careful...the needles maybe, but not the backlighting. It will take about 10 minutes to get the cluster out, 10 minutes to swap out the bulbs and 10 minutes to reinstal the cluster. The large bulbs for the speedo and tach are part no. 83119-24570 (14 volt, 3 watt, blue cap bulbs). If you order the required 8 from Lexus, it'll cost you $74.03. Go to the local Toyota dealership and order the same part number and it'll cost you $46.48. It'll be such a nice change from the burned out or yellowish (burned off the original bue cap) tint.

I'll gladly walk you through it if you like, let me know.

///////////////////

BTW, if you ever need to repair your climate control, send it to Mikado Technology Company in South San Fran...

Mikado Technology Company

1435 Huntington Ave, Suite C

South San Francisco CA 94080-5974

(650) 615-9966

Really nice people (I met them last time I was in Cali and delivered my climate control to their door) and they do a fine job. They can replace burned out bulbs and the blacked out LCD screen on your climate control for $195 (includes shipping back to you). They can replace the needles with LEDs in the backside of the needles it'll look like new for $243. They can also replace the bulbs in back while their at it, but I recommend you going with replacing them yourself. If you need to rpair your needles, just remove your cluster, have it packed and ensured through FedEx or UPS and they can turn it very fast. The $243 includes shipping back to you.

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First of all, I'm not at all familiar with the SC300/400 so I do not know if my DIY will work with these cars. You will have to do your own research into whether or not the SC cluster is similar to the ES300 cluster. But I repaired the burnt out needles and replaced the backlighting bulbs with LEDs in my 2nd generation ('92-'96) ES300 and the parts cost me less than $20 and I completed the project in a day.

Unlike the "waterfall" needles that DaveMcKenz described which are brightest at the base of the needles and dimmest at the tips, I opted to install one bright LED at the tip of each needle, which after all, is the part of the needle that should be as visible as possible for accurately reading the gauges.

I replaced the 8 cluster backlighting bulbs with white/blue 12V 5mm wedge-base flat top LEDs, which are the equivalent of the factory #286 incandescent bulbs.

The links to the write-ups (with pics) are in my sig....if anyone is interested.

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I will try to photograph the lextech needles this weekend.

Lexucan: Nice write-up and nice procedure!

I am having no success photographing the cluster. The automatic exposure system keeps over-correcting. I am so far unable to capture a likeness to what my eyes see.

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Just wondering if anyone writes (or would be willing to write) a tutorial on replacing the instrument lighting. I have seen it done in photos here and it looks really nice. The white/blue for the speedometer and such is easy on the eyes. I havn't been adventurous enough yet to take it out and look myself. So that would be great if anyone could do somthing. Thanks

BTW: 94' SC300

Nothing against LexTech, but you don't really need to send it to them for just changing out the backlighting. It's TOO easy, as long as you take your time and are careful...the needles maybe, but not the backlighting. It will take about 10 minutes to get the cluster out, 10 minutes to swap out the bulbs and 10 minutes to reinstal the cluster. The large bulbs for the speedo and tach are part no. 83119-24570 (14 volt, 3 watt, blue cap bulbs). If you order the required 8 from Lexus, it'll cost you $74.03. Go to the local Toyota dealership and order the same part number and it'll cost you $46.48. It'll be such a nice change from the burned out or yellowish (burned off the original bue cap) tint.

I'll gladly walk you through it if you like, let me know.

///////////////////

BTW, if you ever need to repair your climate control, send it to Mikado Technology Company in South San Fran...

Mikado Technology Company

1435 Huntington Ave, Suite C

South San Francisco CA 94080-5974

(650) 615-9966

Really nice people (I met them last time I was in Cali and delivered my climate control to their door) and they do a fine job. They can replace burned out bulbs and the blacked out LCD screen on your climate control for $195 (includes shipping back to you). They can replace the needles with LEDs in the backside of the needles it'll look like new for $243. They can also replace the bulbs in back while their at it, but I recommend you going with replacing them yourself. If you need to rpair your needles, just remove your cluster, have it packed and ensured through FedEx or UPS and they can turn it very fast. The $243 includes shipping back to you.

Lextech only charges $20 to replace the backlighting. It sounds like a bargain compared to $74 or $46 just for parts. It was one of those while you are at it jobs for mine.

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It actually only cost me $20 for 10 bulbs...I accidently misquoted the price.

So, you were able to screw in the LEDs into the OEM set up without any mods? I assume it's brighter than the standard bulb replacement. How does it look?

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Just wondering if anyone writes (or would be willing to write) a tutorial on replacing the instrument lighting. I have seen it done in photos here and it looks really nice. The white/blue for the speedometer and such is easy on the eyes. I havn't been adventurous enough yet to take it out and look myself. So that would be great if anyone could do somthing. Thanks

BTW: 94' SC300

Nothing against LexTech, but you don't really need to send it to them for just changing out the backlighting. It's TOO easy, as long as you take your time and are careful...the needles maybe, but not the backlighting. It will take about 10 minutes to get the cluster out, 10 minutes to swap out the bulbs and 10 minutes to reinstal the cluster. The large bulbs for the speedo and tach are part no. 83119-24570 (14 volt, 3 watt, blue cap bulbs). If you order the required 8 from Lexus, it'll cost you $74.03. Go to the local Toyota dealership and order the same part number and it'll cost you $46.48. It'll be such a nice change from the burned out or yellowish (burned off the original bue cap) tint.

I'll gladly walk you through it if you like, let me know.

///////////////////

BTW, if you ever need to repair your climate control, send it to Mikado Technology Company in South San Fran...

Mikado Technology Company

1435 Huntington Ave, Suite C

South San Francisco CA 94080-5974

(650) 615-9966

Really nice people (I met them last time I was in Cali and delivered my climate control to their door) and they do a fine job. They can replace burned out bulbs and the blacked out LCD screen on your climate control for $195 (includes shipping back to you). They can replace the needles with LEDs in the backside of the needles it'll look like new for $243. They can also replace the bulbs in back while their at it, but I recommend you going with replacing them yourself. If you need to rpair your needles, just remove your cluster, have it packed and ensured through FedEx or UPS and they can turn it very fast. The $243 includes shipping back to you.

Just purchased a '92 SC300 as a daily driver for my son. It will need the gauge lighting (including needles) repaired. You mentioned 10 minutes to remove the gauge cluster. Any step by step instructions for a new owner?

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Just purchased a '92 SC300 as a daily driver for my son. It will need the gauge lighting (including needles) repaired. You mentioned 10 minutes to remove the gauge cluster. Any step by step instructions for a new owner?

I was about to walk you through it when I found (again) Luxury Mods' tutorial... http://vipmods.com/tutorial7.htm

I would just add to their tutorial...

1) Set your steering wheel full down and out.

2) Put a terry cloth hand towel on the steering column to protect the plastic screen.

3) Take your time removing screws because if you drop them back there you could add plenty of time to the job.

4) My wires wren't NEAR long enough to come out like the one in the pics, so I had to struggle with reachign back there to

disengage the harness clips.

You may have to actually type the address in your URL to get it to work, I did, but its a detailed (pics included) walkthrough. If you have any problems while going through it, feel free to ask me or one of the "grand elders" around here to help ya out. Its pretty straight forward, but I know it can be a bit nerve racking when dealing with a pricey part.

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Just purchased a '92 SC300 as a daily driver for my son. It will need the gauge lighting (including needles) repaired. You mentioned 10 minutes to remove the gauge cluster. Any step by step instructions for a new owner?

I was about to walk you through it when I found (again) Luxury Mods' tutorial... http://vipmods.com/tutorial7.htm

I would just add to their tutorial...

1) Set your steering wheel full down and out.

2) Put a terry cloth hand towel on the steering column to protect the plastic screen.

3) Take your time removing screws because if you drop them back there you could add plenty of time to the job.

4) My wires wren't NEAR long enough to come out like the one in the pics, so I had to struggle with reachign back there to

disengage the harness clips.

You may have to actually type the address in your URL to get it to work, I did, but its a detailed (pics included) walkthrough. If you have any problems while going through it, feel free to ask me or one of the "grand elders" around here to help ya out. Its pretty straight forward, but I know it can be a bit nerve racking when dealing with a pricey part.

Nice link. I've seen that before but couldn't find it. There are 4 key points and you've covered them well

1. Once you lower the steering wheel as far as possible, turn off the automatic steering wheel position and put the car key in another room. This way you won't have to reset the airbag light which can be frustrating.

2. Pull the dimmer panel firmly toward you. It will take a good grip and some force.

3. Definitely don't drop the 4 screws which hold the instrument panel. A magnetic probe nearby might help.

4. There are 3 electrical connectors to release the panel. You need to press a release tab on each one and wiggle to get them free.

Good luck,

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Just purchased a '92 SC300 as a daily driver for my son. It will need the gauge lighting (including needles) repaired. You mentioned 10 minutes to remove the gauge cluster. Any step by step instructions for a new owner?

I was about to walk you through it when I found (again) Luxury Mods' tutorial... http://vipmods.com/tutorial7.htm

I would just add to their tutorial...

1) Set your steering wheel full down and out.

2) Put a terry cloth hand towel on the steering column to protect the plastic screen.

3) Take your time removing screws because if you drop them back there you could add plenty of time to the job.

4) My wires wren't NEAR long enough to come out like the one in the pics, so I had to struggle with reachign back there to

disengage the harness clips.

You may have to actually type the address in your URL to get it to work, I did, but its a detailed (pics included) walkthrough. If you have any problems while going through it, feel free to ask me or one of the "grand elders" around here to help ya out. Its pretty straight forward, but I know it can be a bit nerve racking when dealing with a pricey part.

Nice link. I've seen that before but couldn't find it. There are 4 key points and you've covered them well

1. Once you lower the steering wheel as far as possible, turn off the automatic teering wheel position and put the car key in another room. This way you won't have to reset the airbag light which can be frustrating.

2. Pull the dimmer panel firmly toward you. It will take a good grip and some force.

3. Definitely don't drop the 4 screws which hold the instrument panel. A magnetic probe nearby might help.

4. There are 3 electrical connectors to release the panel. You need to press a release tab on each one and wiggle to get them free.

Good luck,

Nice additions. I forgot about the steering button.

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If anyone is interested, we have fully restored the needle LEDs in many ES, SC, GS, LS instrument clusters. I run a small speedometer repair company in Tampa, FL. Please look at our work when you get a chance at http://www.dnaspeedometers.com/pointers.htm or google us. We also include the backlighting bulbs in our repairs. Any questions please email me anytime at dnaspeedometers@hotmail.com. Any non-working or sticking speedometer or tach we can also fix.

Andrew Gavosto

DNA SPEEDOMETERS INC.

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If anyone is interested, we have fully restored the needle LEDs in many ES, SC, GS, LS instrument clusters. I run a small speedometer repair company in Tampa, FL. Please look at our work when you get a chance at http://www.dnaspeedometers.com/pointers.htm or google us. We also include the backlighting bulbs in our repairs. Any questions please email me anytime at dnaspeedometers@hotmail.com. Any non-working or sticking speedometer or tach we can also fix.

Andrew Gavosto

DNA SPEEDOMETERS INC.

So do you merely replace the LEDs in the needles(I don't plan on changing the color, so don't worry I'm not going down that route)? How long for an 94 SC400? They are considered analog, correct? I assume they are "exactly" the same brightness as OEM, correct? What do y'all do compared to what LexTEch's doing (other than the color thing)?

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Just purchased a '92 SC300 as a daily driver for my son. It will need the gauge lighting (including needles) repaired. You mentioned 10 minutes to remove the gauge cluster. Any step by step instructions for a new owner?

I was about to walk you through it when I found (again) Luxury Mods' tutorial... http://vipmods.com/tutorial7.htm

I would just add to their tutorial...

1) Set your steering wheel full down and out.

2) Put a terry cloth hand towel on the steering column to protect the plastic screen.

3) Take your time removing screws because if you drop them back there you could add plenty of time to the job.

4) My wires wren't NEAR long enough to come out like the one in the pics, so I had to struggle with reachign back there to

disengage the harness clips.

You may have to actually type the address in your URL to get it to work, I did, but its a detailed (pics included) walkthrough. If you have any problems while going through it, feel free to ask me or one of the "grand elders" around here to help ya out. Its pretty straight forward, but I know it can be a bit nerve racking when dealing with a pricey part.

Thanks for the great reference. If I have any questions, I'll get back with you.

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If anyone is interested, we have fully restored the needle LEDs in many ES, SC, GS, LS instrument clusters. I run a small speedometer repair company in Tampa, FL. Please look at our work when you get a chance at http://www.dnaspeedometers.com/pointers.htm or google us. We also include the backlighting bulbs in our repairs. Any questions please email me anytime at dnaspeedometers@hotmail.com. Any non-working or sticking speedometer or tach we can also fix.

Andrew Gavosto

DNA SPEEDOMETERS INC.

So do you merely replace the LEDs in the needles(I don't plan on changing the color, so don't worry I'm not going down that route)? How long for an 94 SC400? They are considered analog, correct? I assume they are "exactly" the same brightness as OEM, correct? What do y'all do compared to what LexTEch's doing (other than the color thing)?

Hey GaDawg! This is really all we do to the needles. We replace the LEDs in the needles in red color for all models. All the customers we've had like to stick close to the OEM look. The job takes us about 3 - 4 hours basically putting them together, installing them, bench testing each gauge for accuracy. In my opinion, the brightness is as close to OEM. I like to take digital pictures of all of our work regarding these instruments so that everyone sees beforehand what they are receiving. If you would like to see other pictures feel free to email me.

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