DaveMcKenz

Well, you have many possibilities. All the a/c parts are pretty expensive if you have the dealer put them in. You might take it to either an indie mechanic or a dealer for diagnosis and go from there. As an example on my 92, a new evaporator is $640 from Lexus and $80 from an aftermarket source. Good luck,

Amplifier in trunk probably got wet. Not sure if you have a weatherstrip problem or a leaking sunroof drain. Happened to me. I bought a ised one on ebay and it has worked for 3 or 4 years. It's possible you could try drying it out, and you should definitely find water intrusion site anyway. Good luck.

I have to agree your title seems kind of vague. Like who makes the best fried chicken? It depends on what you are looking for. It doesn't help that much to ask what everyone thinks of KFC. On the other hand, when someone asks for advice, they often don't know enough to phrase their question perfectly. Someone with experience knows this and responds by probing for information that will help the question to be answered. If I don't want to bother then I would beg off. I wouldn't try to make the guy feel bad.

Yep. Thermostats are designed with a safe failure mode, to fail stuck open. That way failure gives you a too cool engine not a too hot engine

I agree, sounds like thermostat. I would double check the coolant level. It can leak from the coolant reservoir, and just a little low on coolant will greatly reduce heater performance. Good luck,

They did an adequate job with fast turnaround. They have info on how to pull cluster and what color needles are available for your year. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you pull cluster or you will be looking at an airbag warning light which is a pita to cancel. (but doable)

No Draino!!! Not sure what causes the heater core to be suspect, but in general the symptoms don't fit. A heater core won't clog instantantly; you should have noticed a gradual and persistent loss of heating ability as the blockage built up if that were the problem. Does the fan still operate and the selected temperature still show up on the LCD display? If not, it may be the HVAC control module, if only the heat has dropped out, it may be the heater (hot water) control valve. Hard to say with certainty, but ditch the heater core idea unless there is some strong reason to think thats where the problem is. If the engine is running its making hot water. The other ingredients necessary to have a working heater are a heater core and hoses that allow the hot water to circulate, a working heater valve to control the temperature level, and a fan to move air across the heater core. No reason to suspect the HVAC if your LCD display is normal and the fan is working....that leaves the heater valve as the prime suspect since you've already flushed the system. Good luck - this isn't the season for heater problems! thank you for the help, the heater was acting up from time to time here recently it would work but when i would stop or put it in park the heat would just stop working and blow cold air then this... but my lcd screen works fine, the fan is working right. so for the heater valve you know where it is so i can try replacing it an possibly good place to buy one thank you once againm, and yeah i know i'm from south texas an stationed in missouri, so it gets pretty freakin cold up here Thermostat? Does your engine temp gauge reflect normal operating temps? Mine stuck in the open position and I got very little heat.

I assume you can't see the leak. You might check the plastic coolant reservoir in the front of engine compartment. There is a level sensor which screws into it and sometimes cases a crack in the reservoir. Put a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. Just an idea. My exact problem! Where does one buy a new plastic coolant reservoir, as I can't seem to find this part online? Is the rip off dealer parts department the only place to get one? :( I got mine from a member. Search "Aliga". He has supplied me with several very nice used parts. Also search "K & J Distributors". No personal experience but have heard they are good.

The way I understand this, your high compression car will protect itself from pinging when run on lower grades by retarding the spark when it detects knocking. If your knock sensors are not working, your car may not have this protection. That could cause damage to rings, pistons, rods, etc. I could be wrong but I don't want to take that chance.

I assume you can't see the leak. You might check the plastic coolant reservoir in the front of engine compartment. There is a level sensor which screws into it and sometimes cases a crack in the reservoir. Put a little soapy water on it and look for bubbles. Just an idea.

Yep. The "stop valve" is a schrader-type valve. It is very close to the a/c compressor and has a black plastic dust cover screwed it place. If is has been converted from r12, the color code may be different, blue, etc. I remember it being a little tight in there and you have to watch out for a wire connection. Good luck.

Well, for me it was lower control arm bushings (front) and thanks to Gordon at Carsons Toyota I got a pair of Supra LCA's delivered for $476. I tried to DIY but I couldn't get the ball joint apart, so I had my local indy mechanic do the job. Huge difference. Feel like a car 10 years younger!

Of course it could be brake pad/rotor noise, but it could also be lower control arm bushings. Have someone apply and release the brakes going o to 1 mph, repeatedly. Watch the front wheel. If it moves front to back, it should be LCA bushings. Good luck

Hello, My 92 sc400 has developed an odd symptom. When I take it out of park and put into reverse, when I release my foot from the brake I hear a squeak. It almost sounds like a rubber sneaker on the rubber brake pedal (I wish). It occurs going int drive or reverse but depends on applying and releasing of the brake pedal. This only happens at roughly zero miles per hour, never at any speed. The brakes are quiet and seem fine in all other ways. The squeak is definitely not pads or rotors, but sounds like something made of rubber is moving against something else. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave McKenzie

There are three threaded connectors to release: loosen the wheelwell liner enough to get to two 10mm nuts connected to studs in the headlight housing. The visible bolt in the engine bay completes the process except for the electrical plugs. Good luck