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Posted

Hello everyone, I was wondering if you could help me with a problem with my 2000 ES 300 with 135,000 miles on it.

I was driving down the road today, and the instrument panel dimmed and a low hum started, kind of a low key buzz. It was kind of the sound a bee makes when it gets real close to your ear. Then the instrument panel started to conk out and dash lights blinked a time or two then everything went dead.

It didn't take a charge from either a passer-by's jumper cables or the little box that AAA carries around to charge batteries. There was some minor, about half-power lighting up of some lights on the dash and slight turning over of the engine, but nothing beyond that.

The car has always run very well, butter smooth actually, and I have not had this kind of problem. So I was wondering if anyone here could advise on what the problem could be?

Thank you for any input.


Posted

I tried to edit the above, but it wouldn't let me, so let me just add this fact:

for the last few weeks or so, (by the way I live in Maine which has been very cold for the last two months since I have been here, but now now), when I turn the key in ignition, there is initially no response. I turn the key and there is just silence the first few tries, then on the 4th or 5th try the engine turns and on the seventh or eighth try it starts. I chalked it up to the cold weather since warm starts were much easier, usually starting right away. Then I have this problem today so I don't know anymore. Some reading on the internet indicates it could be the timing belt. I am pretty sure that was replaced about thirty thousand miles ago but can't say for sure. I have been getting it serviced at Firestone and lately they don't seem to do much and just hand the car back. The local Lexus dealer here are a bunch of criminals, I took it in a year ago for some warranty work and they didn't address that at all and found some boogeyman issues instead which they charged me several hundred dollars for, so that's why I was taking it to Firestone.

Posted

and once again, since i am unable to edit previous posts, i have to add another post because i forgot to mention another thing.

earlier today, when i parked and took the key out of the ignition, the engine kept running somewhat, although much rougher and making terrible sounds. i put the key back and turned in and the engine resumed fully running with fewer bad sounds and some rattling. took the key out and it continued to run but weaker and with the bad sounds. put the key back in and it resumed running. took the key out a third time and it finally shut down. i forgot to mention this is the beginning, my bad, this is probably the most diagnostic and conclusive thing that happened and hopefully could set off a light bulb in one of ya'lls experienced heads.

Posted
and once again, since i am unable to edit previous posts, i have to add another post because i forgot to mention another thing.

earlier today, when i parked and took the key out of the ignition, the engine kept running somewhat, although much rougher and making terrible sounds. i put the key back and turned in and the engine resumed fully running with fewer bad sounds and some rattling. took the key out and it continued to run but weaker and with the bad sounds. put the key back in and it resumed running. took the key out a third time and it finally shut down. i forgot to mention this is the beginning, my bad, this is probably the most diagnostic and conclusive thing that happened and hopefully could set off a light bulb in one of ya'lls experienced heads.

Plugs, Wires, Battery, Alternator, Clean MAF and throttle body, PCV, Oil, Flush radiator, New thermostat, Drain and fill tranny, Some members use seafoam. Search around the mentioned subjects.

Oh yeah,Vacuum, Clean and condition the leather, Detail the dash and glovebox/center console. Don't forget the trunk, Check all fluid levels and air pressure in the tires. Repeat as needed.:cheers:

Posted

I had some very similar problems about six weeks ago with our 94 ES.

The starter would not respond when I turned the ignition key. There was no clicking as you would normally expect with a weak battery. I would turn the ignition off and on several times, and the car would finally start.

The car also had several instances when it tried to continue running when I turned off the ignition. This felt very similar to a condition I remember from years ago when cars would exhibit a condition commonly referred to as "dieseling." This condition was fairly common when most cars had carburetors, and we were making the switchover to unleaded gas.

I checked the battery with a multimeter, and it showed about 12.5 volts. I thought this was enough voltage to start the car properly.

Well, to make a long story short, I took the car to my service facility and had them check out the starter relay and several other components of the starting system. Their conclusion was that the starter was probably going out. However, they could not get the car to exhibit the same problems that I was having.

I decided to do some further diagnosis on the battery. I got a load tester and again checked the battery. This indicated that the battery was weak. I removed the battery, took it to Sam's Club where I had purchased it, they load tested it and agreed that it was weak.

They gave me a new battery. I took it home and installed it, and the problems have not repeated themselves for more than a month.

One thing I can't understand is how a weak battery would cause the "running on" or "dieseling." This was very strange.

Posted

Yes! What you wrote about carburetors and the switchover to unleaded reminds me of the problems I used to have in the early 90s with my 1981 Oldsmobile Omega, it too would continue to run after the ignition was shut off and key removed. Which was annoying as much of the time it would not start!

I agree with you, why it would happen on a ES 300 which is neither carbureted nor manufactured anywhere near the transition from leaded to unleaded is bizarre.

Anyway, at this point, the car is not able to be jumped off so I am not sure what to do. I have AAA and they have some battery service that I will try first; however today really left me soured on AAA, their main garage for the city was located literally ONE street over from where I was and they still took one hour to get to me! and the driver was shady as all get-out, trying to get me to have the car towed to either the lexus dealer or the lexus specialty shop nearby, and i know the dealer is crooked, and while i don't know too much about the lexus specialty shop, and they are nice enough there, i do know they NEVER have business, maybe because Lexuses are such great cars and nobody needs it.

I hope this problem with my car doesn't cost too much to fix because i am a broke s.o.b. and if my car costs to much to upkeep, at some point i may have to sell it and get a several yr old honda civic or toyo corolla which would break my heart because i think the 97-01 es 300 is all around the best car ever made, the interior is a gem of efficiency and ergonomics, the exterior is clean and uncluttered and simple, the transmission is sweet, performance is good, and i have yet to see a car that is such a paragon of balance and utility. exactly the right size, the right specs....a car for the ages and a true classic in my view. i also like the 02-06 camry as it is the next best thing but it lacks this car's elegance and pizzazz and is also a bit on the large side.

I had some very similar problems about six weeks ago with our 94 ES.

The starter would not respond when I turned the ignition key. There was no clicking as you would normally expect with a weak battery. I would turn the ignition off and on several times, and the car would finally start.

The car also had several instances when it tried to continue running when I turned off the ignition. This felt very similar to a condition I remember from years ago when cars would exhibit a condition commonly referred to as "dieseling." This condition was fairly common when most cars had carburetors, and we were making the switchover to unleaded gas.

I checked the battery with a multimeter, and it showed about 12.5 volts. I thought this was enough voltage to start the car properly.

Well, to make a long story short, I took the car to my service facility and had them check out the starter relay and several other components of the starting system. Their conclusion was that the starter was probably going out. However, they could not get the car to exhibit the same problems that I was having.

I decided to do some further diagnosis on the battery. I got a load tester and again checked the battery. This indicated that the battery was weak. I removed the battery, took it to Sam's Club where I had purchased it, they load tested it and agreed that it was weak.

They gave me a new battery. I took it home and installed it, and the problems have not repeated themselves for more than a month.

One thing I can't understand is how a weak battery would cause the "running on" or "dieseling." This was very strange.

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