Once Wheel Fully Stop,car Body Will Bounce Back A Little ..

[Davidliang]

Here is a great place for a person who want to own and keeping their Lexus in good condition.

I bought a 92 Ls400 (with air shock absorber) few month ago, I use forums information here to maintain it.

I replaced the front upper control arm, and rear axle carrier arm bushing to make it comfortable.

Now when I stop the car,once the wheel fully stop,I can feel the car body bouncing back a little bit,

this make me feel uncomfortable,does this normal? or some parts need to be replaced?

Thanks for all :) !

[djspawn00]

Here is a great place for a person who want to own and keeping their Lexus in good condition.

I bought a 92 Ls400 (with air shock absorber) few month ago, I use forums information here to maintain it.

I replaced the front upper control arm, and rear axle carrier arm bushing to make it comfortable.

Now when I stop the car,once the wheel fully stop,I can feel the car body bouncing back a little bit,

this make me feel uncomfortable,does this normal? or some parts need to be replaced?

Thanks for all :) !

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...c=24885&hl=

[Davidliang]

I visit that topic yesterday,and left a message. Because I can't see if prix fix the problem or not?

Thanks for your info! :)

[blake918]

The car bouncing back a little sounds normal to me. Even a car with standard springs and struts will do that. If it's rocking back and forth a excessively after you've come to a stop, then, the air struts might be on their way out. Otherwise, it seems that everyone rides on their air sturts until they start leaking...

[Davidliang]

Thanks Blake,

I am a new menber in this forum, but before I joint this club, I read a lot of articles from you;

You just like a expert to me.

This is my first car with air strut, so I don't know what it should feel like, just know it feel great when I ride normally,

and want to keep it in good shape, because it is a excellent car.

My mechanic said the air strut is ok, said may be the other parts worn, but it will not rocking back and forth, so maybe its normal as you said;

but I can feel it rock back about like 8 cm even I stop the car softly, this make me feel unconfortable, I thought a good car shoud not act like this.

I don't know if other people have this feeling, and think its normal?

I will keep notice if there have any way to improve it.

THanks again!

[nc211]

David, are you hearing anything when it's rocking backwards, like a clunk or squeek? You're right, Blake is an expert, he's had his car in more pieces over the years than were originally built with!

My car, which is identical to Blakes will rock backwards a little too, like the car is just resetting it's stance after coming to a stop. Not 8 cm, but I have standard struts, not air like you do. If you're not hearing something clunk, and you don't feel a clunking sensation in the seat or steering wheel, then I'd say you're probably fine. Just some of that old age arthritis showing, which happens on these cars, and some of their owners too!

[Davidliang]

NC211, you are an expert too, I read a lot articles from you also, you both great.

I had a clunk noise when cross a small bump, but after replaced both front upper arm, and low ball joint, now its fine.

I don't feel a clunking sensation in the seat or steering wheel, but I can hear a sound like rubber squeek when the car fully stop, I don't know if this relative?

You said, it might just some of that old age arthritis showing, can you give me a suggestion what parts I can check to improve it? I know it is difficult because for an old car their are all connected (not just one place worn).

any suggestions are appriciate! :)

[nc211]

Let's start with the easiest and cheapest little items that make a big difference in your car's rejuvenation.

1) Motor mounts. There are 3 of them, well, really two for the motor and one for the tranny. The two motor mounts "known as the front mounts" will smooth out your engine's presence, especially at idle and under acceleration. They run about $90 each. The third mount "known as the rear motor mount" is actually the tranny mount, and is easy as pie to do yourself. They cost about $40 bucks. You'll need a car jack to lift up the tranny ever-so-slightly while you unhook the old one, and insert the new one. It's easy.

The next on my list of things I would do, and might be your squeek noise, is your stabalizer bushings. You have four of them, two on the front, two on the rear. They wear out pretty quickly "realatively speaking". They're about $15 each, and again, super easy to do yourself. If you look under the front of your car, you'll see the stabalizer bar running from wheel to wheel. Just follow the bar, and you'll see where the two bushings are. I'm about due for my second pair, as I replaced mine when I got the car, and dirve some rough roads to work these days.

Next, the rack gromments. These insulate your steering rack from bangin' around on the frame. If you turn your steering wheel all the way to one side, and look at the rack, you'll see two U shaped clamps over the rack housing, connected by two bolts. Those clamps "just like the stabablizer bar bushings" hold down the bushing, or gromment. I can't find them on the online catelog, but if you call the shop, they'll have them. I think mine were like $20 each. They made a nice difference.

Those are the main areas I would do for the most bang for the buck. As you continue to rack up the miles, you'll hit the need for ball joints, outter tie rod ends, etc.... just par for the course. The motor mounts will probably require a mechanic's touch, as the driver's side is a serious pain in the butt to get to. Expect probably $100 each to install, and WELL WORTH IT. The other stuff, man, with a basic set of sockets and a screw driver, you can do on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

DON'T FORGET to grease the stabalizer bushings though, otherwise you'll be squeekin' & a schrunchin' on down the road.

2 motor mounts

1 tranny mount

4 stabalizer bar bushings

2 steering rack gromments

$300?? at most...

[Davidliang]

Thanks NC211,you gave a good clue for a new owner to improve their car performance.

I will check these items that you mention here.

Actually I replaced two front stabalizer bushings (OEM parts) week ago, but forgot to grease it; I guess the squeek noise(only when you stop the car and the car fully stop) might come from it.

[Davidliang]

Hi nc211

I notice that you are very good at suspension system, expert!

My mechanic said the rocking backward problem might cause by a worn bushing between rear axle carrier and no2. lower arm (he saw it worn and feel soft), do you know what this busing called?

Does this busing available in the market (for replacement)? I didn't see anyone discuss this part before.

Do you think it might cause the problem?

Thanks in advance!

[nc211]

David, you keep calling me and expert, and my big head might get even bigger, and I'll start telling the true experts on here what to do! And, nobody wants that! hahaha...

The rear carrier bushing, very common problem and usually one of the first parts to go in the suspension, especially in the back. Yes, it is very common, and the dealership's have an aftermarket repair kit they use "most dealerhships, not all". It's called the ASUS 530, or 505, or 503 or something like that. Do a search under "carrier bushing, rear carrier bushing, etc.." and you'll find the thread. Where is it? Look under your car, right infront of your rear wheel. See the control arm that runs parallel to the car, connecting right behind the rear door? That is your carrier control arm. It has two connector points, both with rubber bushings. These two bushings take the most abuse, since they receive the most weight in going forward, and coming to a stop. You can replace the control arm if you like, which will replace the bushing that connects to the frame of the car "contact point closest to the rear door". BUT, what he is probably talking about in the hub, is on the other end of that control arm. See where it connects to the wheel's hub assembly, where the other two control arms connect to as well? It's THAT little rubber bushing in there that goes bad first. And is the one the ASUS fixes. That bushing is actually built into the hub itself, not the control arm. Your options are to replace the entire hub "expensive, several hundred dollars", or get the ASUS repair kit and have your mechanic press out the old ones, and press in the new ones. I think the ASUS kits are like $90 bucks for both? I think, I can't remember. This will keep your rear wheels locked in plane, so they don't skoot forwards and backwards under torque.

[Davidliang]

nc211 no matter what, you are doing expert job already :)

yes,my mechanic is talking about busing in the hub, which on the other end of the control arm,

and that bushing is actually built into the hub,but I don't know how to call this busing, and if it avaliable in the ASUS repart kit? what code?

I don't want to replace the hole hub, expensive as you said.

P.S I have replaced the so call "rear axle carrier arm bushing",that I know, already.

Thanks!