Rafiki Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 I am looking for feedback or comments from anyone who has experience with or used 3M Paint Protection Film on the front of their car. 3M's website states: "Scotchgard Paint Protection Film maintains the beauty and integrity of automotive finishes on vulnerable exterior painted surfaces such as leading hood edges, fender end caps and rocker panels. This rugged urethane film helps protect against stone chips, bug damage, abrasion and weathering. Scotchgard™ Paint Protection Film is transparent and nearly invisible, and it does not alter vehicle appearance." Is this stuff really needed to avoid stone chips, etc on the front bumper, hood, etc, as I have read that some IS250/350 owners are having front chipping problems already? Any recommendations for an experienced installer in the Greenville SC area? 3m Website; http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...r/Product_Info/ Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry chester Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 My only comment is that I am also a member of several Porsche clubs, and they use it extensively. The Lexus dealers in the area use it (or something similar) on the cars that they deliver new. I wish that the PO (prior owner) of my vehicle had used it. My front spoiler is, uhhh, spoiled. I don't know if it is the result of soft paint or not, but it certainly is partly due to the very vertical surface of the spoiler. Adds to the look, but also to the potential paint damage. Buy it. larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 moved to detailing section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terry993 Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 I have it on my Porsche. It works extremely well. You need to put it on when the car is brand new, or after a front end respray. Your body shop should tell you to wait 30 days after respray without driving it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOGWT Posted December 5, 2006 Share Posted December 5, 2006 Clear Automotive Protective Coating (A.K.A. Clear Bra): Developed by the 3M Company, Scotchgard™ Paint Protection Film, (SGPPF6) 99.5% optically clear 8Mil (0.008-inch) film designed to reduce stone chipping and bug damage on painted surfaces. It’s a blend of acycloolefin, copolymer and a thermoplastic urethane, a tough, conformable material that is covered by a clear coat layer. This rugged transparent material will not crack, shrink or peel over time and it resists yellowing, the film and clear coat layers contains a protection to counteract harmful ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation that can cause the surface to occlude (cloud) Testing from 3M reveals that the material will deflect road debris without film damage at up to 60MPH with the standard film. Mid-tone coloured cars, silver, reds, greens or gold’s, the film absolutely disappears into these colour (Product Specs http://www.armourfend.com/images/3M.pdf ) Ensure that there are no surface imperfections before installation. It is important to remember that paint protection film application is not considered to be a do-it-yourself project. For best results, professional application is recommended. Clean and maintain its surface with ( Z-8™ Grand Finale Spray Seal) or a plastic cleaner (Plexus® Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish) start at the centre and work outwards, do not use a foam pad / rotary buffer / abrasive compound on the plastic surface or detailer’s clay as it will cause micro-fine surface scratches. To remove minor scratches in the film (tape the edges of the auto mask when polishing the vehicles paint, use a high speed buffer (white foam pad only) and lightly glaze over the material. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean out the edge (See also 3M website- http://www.mmm.com) Maintenance and Care- 1. To clean stains use a citrus based cleaner (P12S Total Auto Wash) polish the paint and the clear plastics separately, tape the edges with masking tape. It has a clear coat so it can be cared for like a clear coated paint; use Zaino or Klasse as they will dry ‘clear’. Use Z-14 Plastic Magic Cleaner & Polish™ or Plexus® Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish for maintenance and to remove any finger marks / smudges (avoid the use of abrasives) 2. What can be done about wax build up along the seams and how can I avoid it? Wax will leave a white line on the seam, it is recommended not to wax over the seams and wax the film and uncovered portions separately to keep from wax build-up. If you accidentally wax over the seam, just use a wet towel and rub it off. Another caution is to avoid buffing over the seams, which creates a noticeable wax line as well. 3. To remove ‘clouding’ from the paint under the clear bra; the suns heat or a hairdryer will remove it. Note: a) If the film is properly applied to a fully cured painted vehicle, it can be removed, usually in one piece, without damaging the paint surfaces beneath the film, by the application of heat (hair dryer not heat gun) to one corner pulling the film at an angle not straight up. Spray Valugard’s New Car Prep - htpp://www.autoint.com) or Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) onto the paint surface, allowing NCP / IPA to dwell for three or four minutes, and then remove the film by slowly pulling at an angle not straight up (applying heat to the film as it is lifted may help) Remove residue with a dampened 100% cotton towel (DFTowel) and / or detailer’s clay. B) Repainted vehicles, paint must be thoroughly dry and completely cured before any attempt to apply film to the vehicle is made, in order to avoid film bubbling (solvent pop) due to paint out-gassing. Check paint body shop and / or paint manufacturer's instructions for recommended cure time and method. Information resource: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml 3M FAQ- http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U.../Consumer/FAQs/ X-Pel UK Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/products/dealersearch-world.asp X-Pel US by State Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/and use the Zip code locater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafiki Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 Thanks for the info.... Do you recommend placing the film on the front bumper? The dealer I spoke with quoted only the Hood, Front fenders, & back of Sideview Mirrors. He said they can do the front bumper, yet do not usually cover it because it is plastic and provides a softer substrate than metal for the paint and thus does not chip as much when hit by stones, etc. I would think the bumper would be the most vunerable location..?? Thanks again for your experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOGWT Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 Thanks for the info.... Do you recommend placing the film on the front bumper? The dealer I spoke with quoted only the Hood, Front fenders, & back of Sideview Mirrors. He said they can do the front bumper, yet do not usually cover it because it is plastic and provides a softer substrate than metal for the paint and thus does not chip as much when hit by stones, etc. I would think the bumper would be the most vunerable location..?? Thanks again for your experience. I would advise it. The dealer may be reluctant to do it as it one of the hardest parts to cover due to its shape / curves Flex Agent: Aerodynamic spoilers, air dams and valences are manufactured from Flexathene® Thermoplastic Polyolefin's, the painting process for these parts requires a paint that has a very porous vinyl base with an elasticity additive to provide flexibility (this provides a limited protection against wheel thrown road stones) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafiki Posted December 6, 2006 Author Share Posted December 6, 2006 Many thanks for the advise. I have located a certified installer from XPEL in my area. The Hood, Fenders, & Mirrors will cost $230. Adding the Front Bumper, which is very complex, will add another $330. All warranted for 5 years (Material & Labor) :D . So I think I will do the whole front for $560. Seems like a lot of $$, yet I will probably be glad I did it after a few years and 100K miles. Thanks again for your comments and advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 $560 is nothing for Xpel...thats a good deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOGWT Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 Many thanks for the advise. I have located a certified installer from XPEL in my area. The Hood, Fenders, & Mirrors will cost $230. Adding the Front Bumper, which is very complex, will add another $330. All warranted for 5 years (Material & Labor) :D . So I think I will do the whole front for $560. Seems like a lot of $$, yet I will probably be glad I did it after a few years and 100K miles. Thanks again for your comments and advise. For any other enthusiast considering a 'clear bra' - Information resource: http://www.automotivearticles.com/Clear_Bra_3M.shtml 3M FAQ- http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U.../Consumer/FAQs/ X-Pel UK Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/products/dealersearch-world.asp X-Pel US by State Area Dealers- http://www.xpel.com/and use the Zip code locater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam c Posted December 8, 2006 Share Posted December 8, 2006 Good Info. I wish I knew about this when I had my front end painted .......... before the current stone chips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chughtaijr Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 What is the difference between this and what lexus puts on? My dealer wants something like $699 for the clear bra. I would rather pay $560 if they are basically the same. Many thanks for the advise. I have located a certified installer from XPEL in my area. The Hood, Fenders, & Mirrors will cost $230. Adding the Front Bumper, which is very complex, will add another $330. All warranted for 5 years (Material & Labor) :D . So I think I will do the whole front for $560. Seems like a lot of $$, yet I will probably be glad I did it after a few years and 100K miles. Thanks again for your comments and advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW03ES Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 Check and see what product they're using. A lot of it just varies based on labor, and that varies based on location. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKperformance Posted December 9, 2006 Share Posted December 9, 2006 I got my first rock chip on my front bumper , it was quite a hard impact and actually made a slight gouge in the bumper. I'll use touch up paint later to fill it up. Otherwise the front bumper looks great after 20 000km from Orlando-Atlanta-Toronto roads. I definitely love this stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rafiki Posted December 17, 2006 Author Share Posted December 17, 2006 Here it is with the 3M Clear Paint Protection Film. I went with the Extended Kit for the Hood, Fenders & Mirrors and the Bumper Kit. Total installed cost was $599. From a few feet away you can not see the film, yet it is visable if you get right up on it. In this picture you can barely see the line where the film ends on the Fender. I am generally pleased with the results. Now lets see how it lasts over the next five years. Thanks for everyone's help & input!! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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