1998 Ls Front Strut Replacement

[Jeffrey Davis]

This weekend I wanted to replace the front struts on my 98 LS 400. It has 127k and it seemed like a good time. I have replaced struts in the past and have good OTC spring compressor. Since the mechanic wanted 3 hrs. labor and marked up the struts by about $100 it seemed like a good way to kill time on Saturday and save about $300.

I looked this up in the service manual and they had a procedure that was different from what I had done in the past (on other cars): Disconnecting the steering knuckle from the upper ball joint using a special service tool SST # 09610-20012.

MY questions are, do I need to disconnect the steering knuckle and if so do I need the special service tool?

Thanks in advance,

Jeff

[bicol-ini]

use a pitman arm puller or a tie rod puller, rent it free from autozone,

[Jeffrey Davis]

use a pitman arm puller or a tie rod puller, rent it free from autozone,

Is this a fixed sized puller or do I need to get one with adjustable jaws?

[alsalih]

I just did this on my 98 last week. First you don’t need to remove the steering outer tie rod, unlike what the manual tells you. Second, only remove the upper control arm ball joint. You use a ball joint remover (I used the small fixed size one) for that just as bicol-ini noted, from Autozone, NAPA, or any other store. If you have done this before then this should be straight forward for you. It took me 3 hours to do both sides using all manual tools and spring compressor. I highly recommend you replace the isolator boot (the one the spring seats against) when doing this job. It will be badly compressed and needs replacement, plus it is known to have caused pop noises when the spring hits the strut mount.

[SKperformance]

Just don"t use a fork style breaker as it will destory the boot.

[Jeffrey Davis]

I just did this on my 98 last week. First you don’t need to remove the steering outer tie rod, unlike what the manual tells you. Second, only remove the upper control arm ball joint. You use a ball joint remover (I used the small fixed size one) for that just as bicol-ini noted, from Autozone, NAPA, or any other store. If you have done this before then this should be straight forward for you. It took me 3 hours to do both sides using all manual tools and spring compressor. I highly recommend you replace the isolator boot (the one the spring seats against) when doing this job. It will be badly compressed and needs replacement, plus it is known to have caused pop noises when the spring hits the strut mount.

Thanks very much. I'll do it next weekend. I can't get the parts yet today.

Do you have any suggestions as to struts? I can get Monroe's locally for $102.00 ea. or KYB's via the internet for $82.00 ea.

Jeff

[alsalih]

OEM from the dealer ONLY, unless you want to change the feel of the ride. The OEM are made by KYB, however you might also find aftermarket KYB, they’re not the same part. The aftermarket ones are stiffer (do a search this is a common surprise for many). Only the ones from the dealer will give you back the original ride. FYI I paid $83 each for the oem from this site http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=213808

[Jeffrey Davis]

OEM from the dealer ONLY, unless you want to change the feel of the ride. The OEM are made by KYB, however you might also find aftermarket KYB, they’re not the same part. The aftermarket ones are stiffer (do a search this is a common surprise for many). Only the ones from the dealer will give you back the original ride. FYI I paid $83 each for the oem from this site http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...m?siteid=213808

Thanks for that information. I checked their website on Monday and got them for $76 and change. I also found an independent shop that will install them both for $100, so I think I'll go that way.

[Threadcutter]

Jeffrey:

I also found an independent shop that will install them both for $100, so I think I'll go that way.

Wow!.....................$100..........No !Removed! knuckles or aching back?

That's a deal, go for it!