Quick Brake Flush/bleed Question

[waf102]

I'm going to have my brake fluid flushed this coming weekend by my Dad's mechanic (long relationship...guy won't BS us if he doesn't know what to do).

I'm doing this because it looks like it may have never been done (Stuff is black as coal) and I have been having trouble with my TRAC disabling itself (yes, I have read the other threads on the various reason...great info...thanks all).

I want to make sure the mechanic bleeds the Trac pump accumulator and the abs pumpmotor as mentioned in other posts.

One of the other posts has a picture but I have not found it instructive (sorry!).

1.) Does anyone have any pics or diagrams of where these bleed valves so I can be sure to point them out to the mechanic &...

2.) Does any one have any other advice they think might be usefull in this situation?

Thanks in advance (I'd be lost with out this board)!!!

-Bill

[SKperformance]

You don't need to flush it unless for reason it has air from replacement of the abs modulator.

If it has never been flush it may need to be cleaned again shortly after to remove the old build up inside the lines as the new fluid cleans it.

[wwest]

You don't need to flush it unless for reason it has air from replacement of the abs modulator.

If it has never been flush it may need to be cleaned again shortly after to remove the old build up inside the lines as the new fluid cleans it.

The way the Lexus techician/mechanic told me he did it with my 92 LS400 was up on a lift with the engine running, in gear, and brakes lightly applied. The Trac portion of ABS activates resulting in the old brake fluid otherwise trapped with those parts of the system being "circulated".

[waf102]

You don't need to flush it unless for reason it has air from replacement of the abs modulator.

If it has never been flush it may need to be cleaned again shortly after to remove the old build up inside the lines as the new fluid cleans it.

I fear it may never have been flushed (the whole system). I'm hoping that a flush of the brake lines (and the trac and abs) will stop my TRAC light from coming on and staying that way (until I restart the car...)

This ""fix" has been suggested in many other posts (and it is the cheapest of the fixes!)

I just would like to be able to point out the two bleed valves in the engine compartment so the mechanic doesn't have to fish around for them.

[waf102]

Well...I had the whole brake system flushed. Man...was it dirty. Looked like my oil!

Anyway...drum roll....My trac problem is gone!

Light does not come on any more...trac seems to work fine (found a gravel road). Actually, it may work better...but that might be my imagination...hehe

So, flushing and replacing old fluid seems to be a fix for some cases of the 'trac-light' problem.

I don't the mechanics will believe it. They were pretty sure it was going to be a sensor. (quick question - are the the sensor for the trac the same ones for the abs?)

So thanks to all those who posted elsewhere this quick and CHEAP ($42.50) fix. Beats some of the $800-$1500 estimates I've seen in other posts.

-Bill