waf102

This just happened to me... I was able to open it by pulling the release metioned behinf the First Aid Kit...but pull it back and don't let go. Then use your other hand to pull the gas door open manually (or use your key or something softer to flip the door open.) BUT...before doing this, be aware that a spring and a small piece of broken plastic will fall on to the ground. Recover them. The spring is a v shapped item. The broken piece of plastic is what held it in place and allowed the spring to 'pop' the door open when you pull either release. I am planning on figuring out a way to remount that spring on the inside of the door. Perhaps I will drill a hole in it and the inside of the door and use some small fastner. (Bottom line...when you pull and HOLD the emergency fuel door release that is behind the First Aid Kit it is free to open...you just to put something in around the edge to flip it open (there will be no resistance...as long as you keep holding that release - it keeps the 'pin' pulled back, freeing the door.) Let me know if that does it. (And if you have any ideas for remounting or replacing that spring.)

Thanks for the advice... Part from dealer was $67. I checked with these guys, http://www.carpartswarehouse.net/pages/ , and they had a no-name for $7 and WIX for $22. I went with the WIX (Part # 33319). Installed. Good opportunity to clean up a little rust on the fuel line...nothing serious. Didn't need to replace anything else. Hopefully, it willsolve some of the intermittent sputting of the engine (like once every few months). Sometimes ya gotta start with the cheap and easy 'fix'. Fingers crossed. Thanks again!

Not sure that it does...other symptoms I won't get into here.

OR... Does any one have a recommendation for a non-Toyota brand at a better price? Quality matters. (If you suggest FRAM...I won't laugh :- p

Hi folks, I have 1990 LS400. Want to change the original fuel filter. Have part # 23300-50020 from LexLS.com tutorial. (Also, have seen # 23300-50060 listed in other tutorials.) They have it at my local Lexus dealer for $60. Tried the Toyota dealer, but nothing comes up under that number. Spend 30 minutes looking thru fourm and on net for a equivalent 'Toyota' part number...but noy joy. Can I get this part @ a Toyota dealer cheaper? Does anyone know the equivalent part number? Thanks... -Bill

Go to www.lexls.com There are a couple tutorials there that should guide you... Take some pics and share if you can...good luck! -Bill

Searched but couldn't find any reference to this... When I turn off the car and pull out the key I notice that the metal part is quite hot. Been that as long as I can remember. But...listening to a caller on Car Talk (had a Subaru Forrester)...Click and Clack said she had a problem. I always assumed (bad idea) that the key was completing a circuit and this was just resistive heating...part of the theft deterrent system. I hate electrical problems (hard to diagnose, and usually expensive)...but if there's an issue I want to know! Thanks in advance... -Bill

Bearings or drive train??? Could you put a finer point on it?

1990 LS400 214k+ miles I have noticed that during the past few months I have had a hard 'clunk' when putting the car into reverse after starting up (high idle). If the car is warmed up (low idle) and I put it in reverse then it's smooth. I do not have any detectable problems going into any other gears at high or low idle. I drain and fill transmission oil (no flush!), only use T-IV, and have had the issue before and after the latest drain/fill. The level is correct. So...Transmission issue? Worn support? Drive shaft/bearings? (Yes, I looked at other postings, but didn't find same issue with same conditions.) Thanks! -Bill P.S. Also...may not be connected...but...I also notice that occasionally the rear of the car feels like its going over a slightly rough road (best I can describe). It's very slight...and I do need new struts in the rear. Maybe I'm being over sensitive....

Hey... Hope you are still liking your ride. That's great you found a nice 91...how many miles? I have a 90...~210000. She's in better shape than a lot of ones I see out there, but there are a few things the old girl could use. Seats are not too bad. I have a gray interior. They have the best reputation for keeping their looks. (Tan is terrible.) I came across this link. https://www.leatherseats.com/default.asp I looked over the website...looks like they might be worth checking out. Please keep us up to date on what you find out there...its all about sharing info! Cheers! -Bill

No air suspension.

I park the car. Turn off the car. 30-60 seconds later there is a short (like taping on the steering wheel)"toot" of a horn coming from the rear of the car. At least that is what it sounds like this. Actually, it sounds more like a horn on an American car than a Japanese car...but it is very short. I am not crazy. But that may change! Help!

First I lost the screw off my Master key. Now I lost the battery from the key (actually, someone else did...I should have warned them that the rubber band on the key was there for a reason.) So...can anybody help me out and tell me what size battery I need to get? Thanks! -Bill (Yeah...I would love to get another master key...but 250 bucks!?!?!?!)

Don't have any personal experience with them but.... they are giving gifts for referrals. Flat screen TV's, DVD's, MP3's, Father's day BBQ grill. Why would they have to do that if they had a good rep? Red flags are popping up all over. :o Quite an entertaining site otherwise. :whistles: They do, however, have a "recommend" from Click'n'Clack readers..... http://www.cartalk.com/content/mechx/find.html Thanks for the input...hadn't thought about it as "red flags". But now you got my worried! I had my car inspected there (free)...just to get a feel. They took me on a test ride. I was able to watch them do the inspection (seemed pretty thorough) and they were pretty right on with their diagnosis (I know every noise my car makes...). Spent about 1.5 hours. Gave me an estimate for Toyota/Lexus parts and labor(comes with lifetime warranty). The garage was like an operating room (only slight exaggeration...)and I haven't seen a cleaner lobby in a doctors office. (They have two binders with about 500 letters from happy recent customers on the table) I was all excited at first...but it seems to be too good to be true and I am going to be mighty *BLEEP*ed if I go there and realize I was suckered some how. Ugh. P.S. Did I mention the free loaner car? P.P.S They claim that the owner has been a guest on Click and Clack.

I assume I know that it can't be done...but a few people told me that they though it could be done with the car up on a lift, the right tools, and some patience/experience. Anybody???

Has anyone been to or have heard about the reputation of Automotive Specialty Services in Avon Ohio? http://www.automotivespecialtyservices.com/main.wtk Looking to get the TB/WP work done there, but wanted to ask around here before I made a commitment. Thanks!

My 90 is at 205K...and long over due for a belt and pump job. Not that it is running poorly, just been a long time... It kills me to do something to it when running so well... Question: Anybody experience any surprises when they have this done on cars this old? Problems with putting the radiator back or needing to replace other stuff after dissassembly? I know that there is (bearing) noise from my passenger side timing belt pulley. Anybody replace either one of those pulleys? any idea on extra cost? Wonder how much I should expect to set aside just in case...its a great car, but at 20 years you worry that things won't go back together once they are apart! (Most mechanics scratch their head when they realize it's a 90). -Bill

I was wondering about this site, their ebay store, and it's associated sites. I need a rack for my 90 ls (leaking for 5 years...now staring to get worse...and I just put on a new pump) and their prices are dramatically lower than the prices for other remanf. racks (really lower). Warranties are good...but I'd rather not have to do it twice. Their ebay ratings are excellent...but that just rates the transactions...people rate the ebay vendors long before the part has been on their car for a few months. My question: has anyone had good experiences over the long haul with their parts??? Thanks gang...

Well, I got to my brothers...who picked up the pump for me...and inspected it. As I assumes, it did not come with an ACV. However, it came equipped with a bolt that is a M14X1.5. So for future reference to those wondering...that is the size. Thanks to all who took the time to share there knowledge and advice. -Bill

Howdy, Going thru PS pump hell right now. Hoping it isn't killing my new alternator. Have new pump and reservoir to replace this weekend. Been reading up on all the threads. Old pump has been making terrible noises. Have had a small lead down on the rack. Been driving to work a few miles each day. This morning it sounded worse (slightly quieter when warmed up...but sounds TERRIBLE in a turn) and had the most awful looking brown frothy crap forcing itself out from under the reservoir cap. I see a nice puddle on the engine guard below. Ugh! (guess i have a new lead somewhere on the pump.) ANYWAY..... This idea of replacing the ACV with a bolt and capping the two vacuum lines...I get that. But has anybody remember the specs of the bolt they used??? I have not seen that mentioned here. Just trying to make it easier...as the job will be done at a friends family garage and they are a business and wont have the time for me to run off to the hardware store and locate a candidate bolt. When you find someone with lift willing to give you a "good-buddy discount" you don't waste their time. If anyone knows the specs for the bolt I would greatly appreciate it. And thanks to all of you who have contributed to the many useful threads I have read on this topic! -Bill

Thanks for the replies.... The engine is running well...get good gas milage...good sign. But the mechanic says the thermostat needs replaced and the resevoir has a crack that expands under pressure. Hopefully that is all it is. Thanks again guys! -Bill P.S. ANy one know the part number for the one-wire water temperature sensor near the thermostat?

Hello all... Quick question...any one resuse/salvage one of these sensors? My tank is cracked and leaking bad. But I cant find any one with the sensor...just some lone sesors on ebay...@ $100!!! If I have to reuse mine, does any one know of any instructions and or pictures in a tutorial...anything...that could help??? Thanks in advance!!! -Bill

Yesterday morning I had my ac serviced. They added about a pound of refrigerant to top it off and said it all seems to be working fine. I drove it around for a while afterwards with the ac on...just to test it out...I had it set to the lowest temp. (FYI...before this I haven't run the AC for more than 5 minutes for years.) Then I began to notice that the temp gauge (which I believe doesn't work to spec...or its sensor doesn't - as it never moves above the first line above) starts jumping up and back down as I go up hills and down again. I finally get home and start to see antifreeze leaking from the front drivers side corner of the car. I looked around and it appears that the coolant has come from the over flow hose that is connected at the top to the overflow coolant tank. So...while the temp gauge doesn't give an entirely accurate reading...it is overheating...as coolant is overflowing. Soooo......you think this is a coincidence? Could those guys messing with the ac done something to cause this? What are the candidates for causing overheating out of the blue? There are no noticeable noises or other leaks...so it ain't the water pump. ???

Sounds like my left front wheel bearing is starting to squeal intermittently (when I start it up and start driving, reverse, turn towards the left, etc...). No steering pull yet...and it the car still rolls well. (I was expecting this as I was told during my state inspection, back in March, that I would have to take care of this by the end of summer along with brakes. 1) How dangerous is it right now? Normally, I don't drive every day...I drive a couple of hundred miles once or twice a month...plus a couple of weekend trips to the store. 2) I am moving (twice) and will be starting a new job in a new area...6 hours away. Can I put this off until the end of September? Should be well less than 2000 miles. 3) I am temporarily broke. Can I save money buy buying a used steering knucle assembly with axle, bearing, and sensor? I see some online for 50-100. I figure this may save me a lot on labor... 4) I have found one listed for a 91-92. Will this work for a 90? Is the fact that there was a two piston caliper on the 91-92's make it different from the 90? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=180348410154 5) Does any one have any suggestion for good vendors of used parts? Anyone out there parting-out a 1990 ls 400??? 6) Any other questions/comments/opinions??? Thanks in advance

Howdy folks... I have a question about the wire bundle... I looked at mine and discovered that the yellow wire has been cut...on purpose or accident...??? What is the yellow one for? I do have a "tail light out" indicator always lit on the instrument cluster...but the tail lights works fine. I have also gone through two alternators in the past 6 months...and 2 batteries. Should I splice it? leave it alone? My best guess is that it has been like this for longer than 6 months...the indicator light on the dash has been on for years... THX!