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Posted

I knew when I purchased the 400h that the cargo volume was less than I would have liked. The Highlander with its boxier shape has more room but at the cost of leg room for the driver (unacceptable for me @ 6'4")

So I've been looking into those rooftop cargo boxes (big plastic box that mounts to the roof rack).

There are only 2 major brands worth considering: Yakima and Thule

Each have a daunting array of sizes to choose from but I wanted to be able to raise the rear hatch while the box is mounted on the roof. This limits you to basically 3 boxes on the market. One from Thule and two from Yakima.

Comparing features and mounting hardware allowed me to eliminate the Thule because the the attachment hardware is a U-bolt configuration where you need line up holes and such while trying to attach it. Also the bottom of the U was square while the rails on the roof rack are airfoil shaped (like a sqashed diamond shape). It looked like it woud dent the tube when you tightened it down (using a wrench on the inside of the box :wacko: )

The Yakima on the other hand comes completly pre-assembled with these clever little clamps that hang down from the bottom and grap right onto the roof rack cross rails. They adjust forward and aft to accomodate any rack configuraion from 24" on up. The clamps have a contoured shape grip and little pads to contact the rail. On the inside is a cam lever that allows you one hand operation to clamp it down.

Platinum Pro 16s: The first Yakima I tried has a silver top so things don't get as hot and 16 cuft of room. It opens from either side and you don't need a key to open it. It can be locked if you want.

The problem is the adjustable clamps do not slide far enough back on the box to allow it to be mounted in such a way that the liftgate can be opened all the way. Using the full adjustment I could only open it a little over half way. With some modification the box could accomodate an additional few inches of placement, but judging by eye it didn't look like it would be enough to open the hatch all the way... you might get it to 80% which may be enough for some. That is why I included it here.

Also, its a bit heavy at 46# which makes it difficult for one person to maneuver.

SpaceCadet 15s: My final pick is smaller, slightly less aerodyanamic and has a black finish. But the shorter/wider/taller formfactor allows it to sit properly onto my 400h without interfering with the hatch, the antenna, or the sunroof. It only opens on one side and requires the use of the key to turn the latch but it sports the same easy to use clamp system as the other box.

It only weighs in at 36# and I can eaisly manage to get it installed with out any help.

There are a couple of things I will try to improve on. The fore/aft span between the rails on the 400h is not quite 24" so some mods on the box adjustment capabiliy will help make it sit just right. However, I was able to drive home from REI with the box right out of the store (no assembly required :D ).

Another change I hope to make is putting a light spring in the clamp to hold it in the "open" position. This would make it less fumbly when maneuvering it around (if you bump the clamp closed, you then have to start all over by opening the box and positioning the cam levers just so...). It would also make it eaiser to hang on the wall at home when it's not on top the car.

Anyways, thats my saga. Hope anyone thinking of getting one of these boxes finds this info useful to them.

Enjoy.

Posted

Thanks for the excellent review. I will certainly save it for future reference.

:cheers:

Dave

Posted

Wow, yes thanks for the great tips! I never really considered these roof-top boxes because the prospect of it becoming an air-ground missle if improperly mounted scares the crap out of me! The Yakima sounds like it has a pretty sturdy mounting system that won't mar up the roof or the rails. That extra storage ~would~ come in handy sometimes...

Posted

A quick followup to my review...

I made some modifications that help in getting the box properly mounted on the roof rack.

A ) cut away a small lip on the fwd edge of the aft clamp to allow the clamp to slide the full extend of the channel that it rides in (the lip was preventing about .75 of travel). This sets the box another .5 aft on the car which is a good thing.

B ) marked new extent on the bottom of the box using the clamp as a template and drilled hole to mark the new end of the slot (this will take advantage of the extra trave gained in A ). Then connected the hole to the rest of the slot using a dremel tool.

C ) found some springs that wedge themselves nicely in between the ribs of the clamp so that they hold the moving jaw part in the open position with a light force. The springs look like a heavy duty version of the spring in your ball point pen.

These mods allow the box to sit perfectly on the cross bars so that the clamps can close all the way down. The springs help keep the jaws open while you bang it around on top your car to get it situated.

As for the not maring the roof or the rack you just have to accept that if you are placing gear up on the roof of your car that things are going to get marred up. Its unavoidable. The good news is most people are too short to see it. :ph34r:

The next project was finding room somewhere in my 1000sqft condo to store the damn thing!

  • 11 months later...
Posted
I knew when I purchased the 400h that the cargo volume was less than I would have liked. The Highlander with its boxier shape has more room but at the cost of leg room for the driver (unacceptable for me @ 6'4")

So I've been looking into those rooftop cargo boxes (big plastic box that mounts to the roof rack).

There are only 2 major brands worth considering: Yakima and Thule

Each have a daunting array of sizes to choose from but I wanted to be able to raise the rear hatch while the box is mounted on the roof. This limits you to basically 3 boxes on the market. One from Thule and two from Yakima.

Comparing features and mounting hardware allowed me to eliminate the Thule because the the attachment hardware is a U-bolt configuration where you need line up holes and such while trying to attach it. Also the bottom of the U was square while the rails on the roof rack are airfoil shaped (like a sqashed diamond shape). It looked like it woud dent the tube when you tightened it down (using a wrench on the inside of the box :wacko: )

The Yakima on the other hand comes completly pre-assembled with these clever little clamps that hang down from the bottom and grap right onto the roof rack cross rails. They adjust forward and aft to accomodate any rack configuraion from 24" on up. The clamps have a contoured shape grip and little pads to contact the rail. On the inside is a cam lever that allows you one hand operation to clamp it down.

Platinum Pro 16s: The first Yakima I tried has a silver top so things don't get as hot and 16 cuft of room. It opens from either side and you don't need a key to open it. It can be locked if you want.

The problem is the adjustable clamps do not slide far enough back on the box to allow it to be mounted in such a way that the liftgate can be opened all the way. Using the full adjustment I could only open it a little over half way. With some modification the box could accomodate an additional few inches of placement, but judging by eye it didn't look like it would be enough to open the hatch all the way... you might get it to 80% which may be enough for some. That is why I included it here.

Also, its a bit heavy at 46# which makes it difficult for one person to maneuver.

SpaceCadet 15s: My final pick is smaller, slightly less aerodyanamic and has a black finish. But the shorter/wider/taller formfactor allows it to sit properly onto my 400h without interfering with the hatch, the antenna, or the sunroof. It only opens on one side and requires the use of the key to turn the latch but it sports the same easy to use clamp system as the other box.

It only weighs in at 36# and I can eaisly manage to get it installed with out any help.

There are a couple of things I will try to improve on. The fore/aft span between the rails on the 400h is not quite 24" so some mods on the box adjustment capabiliy will help make it sit just right. However, I was able to drive home from REI with the box right out of the store (no assembly required :D ).

Another change I hope to make is putting a light spring in the clamp to hold it in the "open" position. This would make it less fumbly when maneuvering it around (if you bump the clamp closed, you then have to start all over by opening the box and positioning the cam levers just so...). It would also make it eaiser to hang on the wall at home when it's not on top the car.

Anyways, thats my saga. Hope anyone thinking of getting one of these boxes finds this info useful to them.

Enjoy.

Posted

I also found yakima to be the only one. One note you do need to get the yakima cross bars. With any weight at all in the sky box it will ride on the roof itself. Also note that with weight in the box if you turn and hit a bump at the same time there is the potential for the skybox to move to left or right is not fully tightened down - tom

Posted
I also found yakima to be the only one. One note you do need to get the yakima cross bars. With any weight at all in the sky box it will ride on the roof itself. Also note that with weight in the box if you turn and hit a bump at the same time there is the potential for the skybox to move to left or right is not fully tightened down - tom

If you look closely you will see the reason for this is that the spacing between the bars on the lexus and clamps on the box do not quite match up. There needs to be about 1/2" more travel in one or the other to put the centers on center.

While the clamps will engage and hold the box on the rack well enough to drive it home, I felt I needed to make and adjustement so that the clamps could close more fully onto the bars (the shapes match pretty well if centered). I chose to modify the box since that looked easier than changing the cross bars on the roof rack. It was a farely easy mod with a dremel tool. But if replacing the cross bars works too, then great.

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Just thought I'd toss this tidbit into the fray. I recently drove about 3400 miles from Central Washington State to NE Ohio. Drove through California, AZ, NM, OK, to avoid the severe winter storms at the time. I had a Thule Atlantis 1600 on the roof racks. The Thule clamped directly to the OEM Lexus roof racks. Two cautionary issues worth noting were the clamp jaws touching the roof sheetmetal during mounting, and once mounted, the clearance or non clearance of the cargo box tail end and the plastic visor over the rear window.

The Lexus cross bars have to be spread apart as far as they can go.

I got the box on the roof racks by myself. I put a towel on the rear window plastic visor, leaned the box against the rear bumper and rear visor, lifted the box and shoved it forward. Once on top, open the box, one side at a time, and unscrew the clamping knob to open the jaws. Before its fully open enough to get the jaws around the cross bar, the jaws will contact the roof sheetmetal, you lift the box up while opening the jaws enough to fit over the cross bar, then rotate the knob to close the jaws while holding the box up an inch or so. Same for the other 3 clamps.

See pics at

http://s303.photobucket.com/albums/nn145/g...mview=slideshow

I maintained an apartment at my long term temporary location & moved it all back home. My milage averaged about 22mpg with the Thule rooftop box and a full full load.

  • 4 months later...
Posted
All very useful guidance. Thanks!

Anyone have experience with either Thule or Yakima cargo BAGS that go on the roof? Seem to range from 13 to 17 cubic feet, "weatherproof" features and of course a lot less aerodynamic.

Any comments? Thanks...

http://www.thuleracks.com/product.asp?dept_id=11&sku=867

Bags are not good for the Lexus because there is no protection on the roof sheet metal to have things sitting driectly on it. You will damage the thin sheet metal and scratch the paint.

If you really wanted to put up a bag, I would suggest putting some of those side molding like runners on the roof between the cross bars so the bag has something to sit on.

You can find the side molding anywhere like Pep Boys or Kragen, or online at places like JC Whitney.

Good luck.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Sykfish,

Thanks for all your help. One more question. I'm considering the Skybox Platinum 16s (Yakima says "it's the shortest they make"), but realized it will stop the rear hatch from opening all the way. Could the mod you did to your Space Cadet also be do on the 16s, so it could travel forward about 5 inches? It seems like 5 inches is about the amount it hangs over the rear. Thanks for any input on this..

Posted
Sykfish,

Thanks for all your help. One more question. I'm considering the Skybox Platinum 16s (Yakima says "it's the shortest they make"), but realized it will stop the rear hatch from opening all the way. Could the mod you did to your Space Cadet also be do on the 16s, so it could travel forward about 5 inches? It seems like 5 inches is about the amount it hangs over the rear. Thanks for any input on this..

That would totally depend on the geometry of the clamp and adjustment features built into the current 16s. If they are the same as the one I looked at when I got the Space Cadet, than I would have to say no. At that time it did not look like I could make the needed mods to make it work. I actually had the box on top of my car and looked at that prettly closely... beleive me I wanted to take that box home... but I could not see how to fit it without hatch interference so I refused it and ordered the Space Cadet as my second choice.

The Space Cadet was much easier to fit.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

THULE ATLANTIS 1600 CARGO BOX = PERFECT FIT ON RX400h

I ended up with the Thule Atlantis 1600 box (16 cubic ft.) Mounted it today as far forward as possible on the Lexus factory rack (unlatch and slide front crossbar all the way forward) and it FULLY ALLOWS THE REAR DOOR TO OPEN. I mounted it a bit off center for easier driver-side access, and the gap between the fully open/raised rear window visor and the Thule box is 2mm. No joke, just 2 millimeters! Beautiful.

The Quick Grip clamp system has rubber-coated clamps to minimize scratching the roof when installing. There were some negative reviews in 2008 about the Quick Grips breaking too easily. Thule rep assured me that they upgraded them for 2009 and they have no complaints (but he IS the company rep...).

Bought it through Rackattack.com for $495 delivered (no tax or shipping added)--showed up about 12 days after ordering it. They order it and ship it directly from Thule in Illinois, who charge $550 on their website.

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