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95 Es 300 Head Job Troubles


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Hey guys, new lexus owner here.

I picked up a 95 lexuss with a blown head gasket for $1800

replaced a head gasket and the can ran fine, but still burned water.

-had both heads rebuilt on exchange, re-assembled car and now the car runs extremetly rough(but doesn't burn water.)

the car runs so rough, as soon as it is put in drive it dies. My thinking is that the timing is off. No CEL codes. Is there any other way to mess up the timing other than the timing belt?

Is there a LH and RH cam gear? I have the 1997 FSM, and I am an experienced backyard mechanic.

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Cam/Crank timing is off.

Set the bottom end to #1 cylinder, intake stroke, tdc.

Then set the timing. If you have too (Don't trust the cam gears) Take the valve covers off & use the assembly dots.

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The assembly dots that are on the cam gears that are UNDER the valve covers?

Yup make sure they line up...9:15 position with the crank at tdc. You can use the crank pulley notch and 0 timing mark to ensure crank tdc.

Hey Toysrme, if it's still rough can it be that the mechanic mixed up the valves or cam bearing caps?

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Nope. The bearing caps will just re-grind themselves down.

The lifter buckets / shims will just make his engine sound like mine. It'll tick like craaaazy. Either the valves hitting the seat more than they should, or the cam lobes hitting the shims.

(Not really a performance problem, just something quite annoying to hear all day.)

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What do I have to do to disconnect the timing from the computer?

Is that intermittent clanking noise from your engine or someone banging in the background??

Take pictures of the crankshaft pulley showing notch position on timing plate and cam gears and post them that'll help some.

How did you put the the tensioner back on?

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That is a noise coming from the exhaust pipes. It sound like combustion in the tubes.

I'll re-do it tomorrow, and take pictures.

To put the tensioner back on, I just put it on, and tighened the bolts once the belt was on.

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That is a noise coming from the exhaust pipes. It sound like combustion in the tubes.

I'll re-do it tomorrow, and take pictures.

To put the tensioner back on, I just put it on, and tighened the bolts once the belt was on.

The tensioner should be set and keyed before installation. That is using a vice/clamp or vehicle jack and push in the tensioner pin. Using a nail or other hard straight small item push it through the hole in the tensioner dust rubber into the hole in the tensioner pin. Put the tensioner on, tighten bolts and pull out nail.

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I positively figured it out. The entire LH cyinder head has no compression, while the right side has good compression (210). The fuel/air mixtures comes out the intake port, which I know is not right.

The timing is set correctly. See pictures below.

What can the head rebuilder do to mess this up?

http://www.box.net/public/1a7j7qou7u

http://www.box.net/public/lp0tr1nzhj

http://www.box.net/public/eqsret53ez

On a side note, does anybody know of some free FTP space for my pictures and such?

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Man guys, thanks for all your help on the actual problem.

For anybody searching on this thread, there is some info.

The LH and RH cam gears are identical.

The LH intake cam and RH intake cam lobe positions are identical. The difference is how the camgear is pressed on. The keyway for the camgear is different from LH to RH. (My head rebuilder gave me two RH cams.)

The exhaust cams are different. The LH exhaust cam has a metal extension for the cam position sensor.

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Man guys, thanks for all your help on the actual problem.

For anybody searching on this thread, there is some info.

The LH and RH cam gears are identical.

The LH intake cam and RH intake cam lobe positions are identical. The difference is how the camgear is pressed on. The keyway for the camgear is different from LH to RH. (My head rebuilder gave me two RH cams.)

The exhaust cams are different. The LH exhaust cam has a metal extension for the cam position sensor.

I'm glad you got it worked out man!

did you port n' polish while the head was off?

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