My Car Is Dead? Overheating In 93 Es300

[spirited]

so from what i've read this car has a real bad overheating problem. well here's my case and im going to take it to a shop tomorrow for htem to check it. Anyways about 2 years ago i changed my radiator, then about 4-6 months ago i took my car to a radiator shop becuase coolant was completely gone and my car was overheating bad, so i was told its an engine problem and he would pour some stuff in to seal it and its not a fix but it'll save me from having to get a new engine so i said ok. He said he could change the radiator but it wouldnt help me. He "sealed" it, put in green coolant and i was on my way, no more overheating. then 3 weeks ago i went in for an oil change at a independant lexus toyota honda shop and they changed my oil and put red coolant in, basically mixing the green adn the red together. Well the day after i noticed there was reddish brown sandy grit inside the tank where you poor coolant in so i drove it back adn was told that the antifreeze eats away at the metal adn so you have the sandy stuff and that i need to flush it in the near future. i dont know much so i took his word for it. Today my car suddenly overheated while taking my uncle siteseeing so i drove home becuase i wasnt that far and took the other car out. Then earlier tonite i checked on my engine and poured out the inch of liquid and dark red-brown grit in the tank and opened the radiator cap and poured in 24oz of water becuase it was completely empty and i have no coolant and its late. after i poured in the water i found i could pour another 24oz in and there was a puddle under my car. This makes me wonder is it leaking or did i spill some. Do i need a new engine like the radiator guy said? what should i do.

[SKperformance]

Need to find out where it is leaking .

the stop leak thing is probably what the grit you are finding is.

Every tiem you added new coolant the new stuff cleansed the area which was elakign like a wound and it started to leak again.

[monarch]

I think you should have a compression test done on the engine to see if the engine has low compression on some cylinders. If some cylinders are below 140 PSI then you can figure the engine has some serious wear due to the overheating in which case you might have to decide whether or not to get another car or a new engine. The car would have never had overheating or needed any "sealers" if the various owners(s) had used factory original parts and fluids to maintain the cooling system over the years. Examples: Only used a 50/50 mix of Toyota Long Life Antifreeze and distilled water at replacement time. Only used a genuine Toyota thermostat and thermostat gasket. Only used genuine Toyota radiator caps. Only used a genuine Toyota water pump. Only used genuine Toyota tune up parts and tune up specifications. Independent shops don't use genuine Toyota anything (unless they are Toyota or Lexus specialty shops).

[Toysrme]

Is it billowing white smoke out the exhaust? If it is, it's blown up.

A compression test is a good idea. The specification is 178psi normal / 142psi minimum / no more than 14psi different between any 2 adjacent cylinders. If you're under 155psi compression. It's blown up. ;)

A leak-down test is good too.

Toyota red blew it up. ROTFLMAO! Na. But it shouldn't have been used in the first place. It rusts the block, doesn't last as long & gels with the coolant you had.

Block sealers don't normally work. They just try to patch something like a cracked block (neeeeever gonna happen), or a blown head gasket (which doesn't really work to begin with... 2000*F exhaust @ 150+psi a few thousand times a min is > block sealant)

Block sealants are more like a "I've blown up, but I need to drive home damn it".

Sounds like you've blown it up, but who knows. Flush the coolant out & fill it properly. Then see if it's still overheating.

If it's blown up, you've just roasted a head gasket. If you're mechanically inclined, take the heads off & have them milled flat 'cause they're likely warped. Then put it back together with some custom copper gaskets (Best choice you can ever make), or Victor's Nitroseal's from NAPA/Car Quest.

The Victor gaskets are the strongest gasket u can buy pre-made for that engine. OEM Toyota gasket would come in 3rd & anything else - don't use it. (Unless you can pay for custom multi-layer steel gaskets)

Then just replace stuff on your way back out. Cam, dizzy seals, valve cover gaskets, plugs, check the wires, dizzy rotor & cap. timing belt, drive belts etc.

Or buy an imported Jap 3vz-fe. Beware. Most only have a 7-14 day warrantee that they're not blown up. So you gotta get one on a stand & running, or in the car & running.

If you buy a Jap motor & you have emessions, you need to swap the rear manifold, upper intake manifold & EGR controls from your engine, to the new one. If you don't have emessions. You get a free mod 'cause I'd tell u to take it off anyways.

Otherwise, same difference.

Also beware... Some random douche (not one of the common sellers) on eBay just sold someone I know a 2.5L 4vz-fe from Japan & tried to pass it off as a 3.0L 3vz-fe.

[akkuma2k]

good luck

[monarch]

155 psi compression does not mean a Toyota engine has "blown up". These engines can still run good at 130-140 psi, they just lose some idle smoothness and power. The Toyota Red coolant does a fantastic job at preventing rust even in a 100% cast iron block and head engine like my 1974 Toyota 18RC engine. I put Toyota Red in this engine back in 1998 when I bought the vehile and I'm going to drain it out n a few days and will post pictures of what the 8 year old Toyota Red coolant and it's radiator looks like after 8 years in a 100% cast iron block and head engine.

[Toysrme]

155 psi compression does not mean a Toyota engine has "blown up". These engines can still run good at 130-140 psi

Yes it does.............. These are not 7.0:1 compression engines from 1970...

[monarch]

Yes it does.............. These are not 7.0:1 compression engines from 1970...

Toyota didn't build any 7.0:1 compression car engines in the 70's. They were around 8.5:1. In any case, numerous owners of the similar 3VZ-E engine know it can run pretty smoothly with 130 PSI compression on some cylinders. Witness how many of these 3VZ-E owners - including even one auto shop mechanic I am acquainted with - never noticed any engine roughness until compression had fallen below 100 psi on some cylinders due to burned exhaust valves.

[Toysrme]

Toyota didn't build any 7.0:1 compression car engines in the 70's.

The average 7.0:1 compression engine makes 130-140psi compression. You're saying the engines are just fine at 130psi... That means you're low-balling a BRAND NEW 7.0:1 compression engine...

1vz-fe 9.6:1

2vz-fe 9.0:1

3vz-e 9.0:1

3vz-fe 9.6:1

4vz-fe 9.6:1

5vz-fe 9.6:1

1mz-fe 10.5:1

2mz-fe 10.8:1

3mz-fe 10.5:1

1gr-fe 10.0:1

2gr-fe 10.8:1

2gr-fse 11.8:1

3gr-fe 10.5:1

3gr-fse 10.5:1

4gr-fse 12.0:1

Last time I checked... No Toyota v6 on that list seems to have a maximum of 7.0:1 compression ratio.

Gee, I wonder if 140psi is blown up??? Ya... Something like that.

In any case, numerous owners of the similar 3VZ-E engine know it can run pretty smoothly with 130 PSI compression on some cylinders. Witness how many of these 3VZ-E owners - including even one auto shop mechanic I am acquainted with - never noticed any engine roughness until compression had fallen below 100 psi on some cylinders due to burned exhaust valves.

Oh shove the 3vz-e. That is the biggest POS half hacked engineered engine Toyota designed in the last 30 years. It has problems out the wahoo & you act like it's god's gift to every aspect of engine design. What side of the Earth did you fall on to be such a 3vz-e fanboy? Makes since that you are.

130psi is a warped head, or blown head gasket with good rings. Never notice any engine roughness? 130psi on every cylinder ensures nothing more than the fact that it runs equally as crappy on every cylinder.

Crap * 6 = a smoothe application of crap.

NOTICE: This measurement must be done in as short a

time as possible.

Compression pressure:

1,177 kPa (12.0 kg f/cm2, 171 psi) .

Minimum pressure:

981 kPa (10.0 kg f/cm2, 142 psi)

Difference between each cylinder:

98 kPa (1.0 kg f/cm2, 14 psi) or less