Jl 10w7 With 500/1 Jl Amp

[razahyde]

hey guys whats up?

so liek the post says i have a 10w7 and 500/1 amp and im going to wire it all myself since i am not willing to dish out $400 for installation but i want to kno how to get the wires from my battery to the trunk anyone kno an easy way to get throug the firewall without drilling and then hiding the wires all the way to the trunk

[SKperformance]

Interesting.

That is the exact same setup i am going to be installing in my car.

I will be runngin the wire tommorow so i have no clue right now.

[LRP_LS400]

for my LS i found a hole that was already threw the firewall but it wasn't large enough for the 0 gauge wire so what i did was run the wires backwards meaning the end that is suppose to go to the amp goes through the firewall and the other end with the fuse goes in the trunk w/ the amp. pop the doorsiles off and unclip the carpet. run the wires along the driver side and when you get to the back it should be easy to run the wires up the side of the back seat and then into the truck behide the seat. all your wires are set. install and have fun.

are you using the factory headunit or an aftermarket?

[razahyde]

where exactly was this hole at and im running 4 guage wire through it i only need the run the 12+ wire to the battery and to the trunk and im keeping my stock head unit for now prolly gonna get the new alpine double din nav unit that just came out

[SKperformance]

It is a major pain in the !Removed! to get the power wire in the car and then in the trunk after.

Pay someone else to do it unless you have lots of time.

I had to jack up the car , fish the wire through the fender and inside the support frame just to get it into the car without drilling. I found one grommet but it is no where near easy to access in the drivers fender.

BTW how much did you spend on the sub and amp?

Are you using the H.O. box for the w7 or the pro wedge?

[LRP_LS400]

its under the master brake cylinder on the driver side i'll try to get pic. tomorrow on my day off and i'll post them.

[razahyde]

It is a major pain in the !Removed! to get the power wire in the car and then in the trunk after.

Pay someone else to do it unless you have lots of time.

I had to jack up the car , fish the wire through the fender and inside the support frame just to get it into the car without drilling. I found one grommet but it is no where near easy to access in the drivers fender.

BTW how much did you spend on the sub and amp?

Are you using the H.O. box for the w7 or the pro wedge?

i bougt the sub for $250 brand new in box and the amp for $300 brand new in box along with an HO box brand new for $200 do u have an aftermarket headunit or are u keeping your stock SK? and do you mind postin pictures of how you did this SK becuase with the amp we have the 500/1 if you keep the stock headunit its simple as taking the wires from our stock sub and plugging them in since the amp accepts lo or high inputs and you dont need a remote wire either just the +12, ground, and wires from the stock sub which u solder RCA"S to the end of.

btw how much did u get your stuff for SK? and do you kno how to take our doarpanels off im prolly gonna switch out speakers too

-LRP- i would appreciate it if you could send me the pictures

-and i would pay a professional but im not going to spend $300-400 thats what al the estimates were around so im going to do it myself even if i have to run it all underneath the car (of course ill insulate it if i take this route)

[LRP_LS400]

hope picture works

another

[razahyde]

hope picture works

another

thanks alot LRP after i get it in do you have any idea how i qould go about getting it to my trunk?

[LRP_LS400]

pop the doorsiles off and unclip the carpet. run the wires along the driver side and when you get to the back it should be easy to run the wires up the side of the back seat and then into the truck behide the seat. all your wires are set. install and have fun.

[SKperformance]

Ok here is the low down on it from my end.

You got a steal and a half for your stuff.

The amp retails for $800-1000 the sub with the H.O. box is another 1200-1400 in Canada . We get raped for everything compared to the US market consumers. I didn't pay that as i am in the business but it still was not cheap paying cost.

I also don;t think the previously mentioned way will work for our cars as it is a UCF-20/21 not a 10/11.

I am also keeping the stock head for a clean look especially from prying eyes. The stock head changes the audio signal all over the frequencies so one day i might get a JL clean sweep with a new amp to balance the sound again.

I had to feed the power wire into the drivers fender .Then go up and around the fender support ,this means removing the fender liner to be able to secure it from damage. Then going down the back of the fender there is a grommet that is empty which leads into the cars frame rails. It took hours to fish this thing through and then drill open a hole to pull the wire into the cabin from under the carpet where it meets the kick plate by the drivers door. From there i ran it along the carpet to the rear seat which had to be removed. While you are at it pop up the rear parcel shelf and connect a pair of speaker wire to the factory sub.

Also remove the factory sub so the new ones can breath.

Just below the upper (drivers side rear seat) seatbelt there is a small hole surrounded with plastic push the wire through and with the rear panel of the trunk removed you can pass it through by the gas tank.

I used a ground by the tank as well.

From there i connected a JL audio high pass wire connector which adds RCA plugs to the ends. I made them reversed so i could check for polarity/phase which can be switched easily by switching the 1 RCA lead.

I use the input signal to trigger the amp and will keep it that way.

The only thing i have to get is the sub bass control as this thing is a monster and is giving me a headache. If i keep the sound quiet it will not trigger the amp once i keep it low but i would not mind something to smooth out the low end but not jar my fillings.

I used about

1 jl fuse holder

16 feet of 4 gauge

3 feet of 4 gauge ground

to a 1 farad cap

2 feet more of each to the amp

then 8 gauge power wire to run as the speaker wires.

If you can get the sub control cheap like the rest of the system let me know as it is $50 here and $25 on eBay.

Never took off my door panels so i am not sure but it should not be hard.

Hope this answers you questions and good luck

[razahyde]

Ok here is the low down on it from my end.

You got a steal and a half for your stuff.

The amp retails for $800-1000 the sub with the H.O. box is another 1200-1400 in Canada . We get raped for everything compared to the US market consumers. I didn't pay that as i am in the business but it still was not cheap paying cost.

I also don;t think the previously mentioned way will work for our cars as it is a UCF-20/21 not a 10/11.

I am also keeping the stock head for a clean look especially from prying eyes. The stock head changes the audio signal all over the frequencies so one day i might get a JL clean sweep with a new amp to balance the sound again.

I had to feed the power wire into the drivers fender .Then go up and around the fender support ,this means removing the fender liner to be able to secure it from damage. Then going down the back of the fender there is a grommet that is empty which leads into the cars frame rails. It took hours to fish this thing through and then drill open a hole to pull the wire into the cabin from under the carpet where it meets the kick plate by the drivers door. From there i ran it along the carpet to the rear seat which had to be removed. While you are at it pop up the rear parcel shelf and connect a pair of speaker wire to the factory sub.

Also remove the factory sub so the new ones can breath.

Just below the upper (drivers side rear seat) seatbelt there is a small hole surrounded with plastic push the wire through and with the rear panel of the trunk removed you can pass it through by the gas tank.

I used a ground by the tank as well.

From there i connected a JL audio high pass wire connector which adds RCA plugs to the ends. I made them reversed so i could check for polarity/phase which can be switched easily by switching the 1 RCA lead.

I use the input signal to trigger the amp and will keep it that way.

The only thing i have to get is the sub bass control as this thing is a monster and is giving me a headache. If i keep the sound quiet it will not trigger the amp once i keep it low but i would not mind something to smooth out the low end but not jar my fillings.

I used about

1 jl fuse holder

16 feet of 4 gauge

3 feet of 4 gauge ground

to a 1 farad cap

2 feet more of each to the amp

then 8 gauge power wire to run as the speaker wires.

If you can get the sub control cheap like the rest of the system let me know as it is $50 here and $25 on eBay.

Never took off my door panels so i am not sure but it should not be hard.

Hope this answers you questions and good luck

wow you spent that much i could have got a JL 1000/1 along with a 13w7 with the kind of money you spent but how did you get RCA connections for your amp because the amp takes low or high inputs so hooking up RCA's to the wires from our stock sub should work too dont you think? havnt tried it yet since im still waiting on my friend to get me my wires which are JL also 4 gauge but if you dont mind can you take pics of your set up and how you wired everything because im more of a visual person and it would be alot easier to understand how you did all of it if i were to look at a few pictures if that isnt a problem with you of course and i will see what i can do about the bass control knob im sure i can get it for liek $20, 30 at most

[SKperformance]

Unless i pull the car apart again you can't see anything.

The wires hide from the battery right until they come out to the cap then are hidden back again until they get to the amp.

I am going to be making a mount but not for a few days atleast so i could take a pic but it would still not show anything other than the wires as they have to do a good bit of snaking around the trunk.

JL sells a RCA connection which you can attach to bare speaker wires.

I only used one side but wanted a clean look.

[razahyde]

i kno ur talking about the XA-BLUAIC2-SW but i cant seem to find them online when i do a search for them where did you get yours because i have a SNI-35 but thats just like getting the JL wires which id rather do since it is a direct connection and the less the connections the cleaner the signal and i dont want to lost any more quality since the head unit ruins alot of it

-if you can send me the link to some u may find id appreciate it because im having no luck finding them and u hooked ur wires up to the rear speakers and got a signal from there correct?

[SKperformance]

No web link for the adapter as i got it from the same store.

JL is not supposed to be sold on the web which is probably why you are having a hard time finding the stuff.

Did you check ebay?

The sub wires are connected to some speaker wire, which is then connected to the adapter which has one side plugged into the amp.

Do you have a premium or nakamichi system?

[razahyde]

No web link for the adapter as i got it from the same store.

JL is not supposed to be sold on the web which is probably why you are having a hard time finding the stuff.

Did you check ebay?

The sub wires are connected to some speaker wire, which is then connected to the adapter which has one side plugged into the amp.

Do you have a premium or nakamichi system?

yah i coudlnt find any on ebay or online and i have a premium system which i should really change out since its not working with my cd changer and is slowly draining my battery for some odd reason and did you try to hook up those RCA you got to the stock sub wiring because it should work since the JL slash series amp take any type of signal and process it and put out the right type so the signal from the amp would have worked which is what im doing and where did you get your wires from as in what store i cant think of any around here that would have them i didnt even kno of such a thing untill you told me of it i asked around and everyone said get a SNI-35 good thing i havnt opened it yet haha

[SKperformance]

The factory sub wire attaches to the speaker wire then the adapter which has the rca ,nothing else to it.

[razahyde]

The factory sub wire attaches to the speaker wire then the adapter which has the rca ,nothing else to it.

damn SK i hooked up my sub and amp......it isnt all that great im very dissapointed i might as well have gotten an Xplod but maybe i just have it set up wrong can you take a picture of the back of ur amp so i can see how u have it set up and i coudlnt find any of those JL wires so i went ahead and used the SNI-35 which creates RCA outputs from the stock wires...or in other words i hooked up the stock wires from the sub to the SNI and got RCA ends to hook up to my amp.....but it doesnt sound all that great after i hooed everything up ...so if u dont mind can you tell me the settings u have set to on ur amp and how do u get the sub in the rear out

[SKperformance]

My amp was set up by a pro and it thumps way too much even with the bass turned down and the fader forward.

I can't take a pic of the amp buttons/switches as it is mounted and hidden on the end of the trunk.

Becuase of the rips it will change the output if you have a weak charging output.

It takes about 3-4 minutes of driving before it will start to run hard .

[razahyde]

My amp was set up by a pro and it thumps way too much even with the bass turned down and the fader forward.

I can't take a pic of the amp buttons/switches as it is mounted and hidden on the end of the trunk.

Becuase of the rips it will change the output if you have a weak charging output.

It takes about 3-4 minutes of driving before it will start to run hard .

the rips? what are you talking about and how do i get my back seat off?

[SKperformance]

RIPS regulated internal power supply.

It adjusts the output according to the line voltage

[razahyde]

RIPS regulated internal power supply.

It adjusts the output according to the line voltage

nevermind forget this lol im selling my system ive come to the realization that i dont need it so if you guys wanna buy some JL equipment chepa then PM me

JL 10w7 (w/sealed box to JL spec-$75 value)-250-300-----http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=5

JL 500/1amp -300----http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=252

[SKperformance]

Is it the real JL H.O. box with inner red carpet or a generic one made to the speakers specs?

[razahyde]

Is it the real JL H.O. box with inner red carpet or a generic one made to the speakers specs?

no its not to spec because its not a ported box i belive its called a dual port box or something of that sort so the specs for that are different and SK when u took out ur rear sub do u get a like a continous beep noise that increases when u step on the gas and decreases when u step off but never goes away unless u turn your car off its comeing from where the carpet lining meets the metal sheeting of the gas tank theres some wires ran there and it looks like some type of part

[SKperformance]

No i don't get any beep.

That also explains why it may not sound as hard as mine as it is not a perfect box.

My original box is ported but is not made like any normal one i have seen before.

I don't think JL even sells the H.O. box by itself to add a driver to later on.