Jump to content


Sc400 Problems, Need Help.


SeanStock

Recommended Posts

I have a 1992 SC400 that I bought about 5 days ago. The alt died after 4 days and I swapped in a new one myself. The car ran fine and I think this is unrelated to the issue at hand.

Last night on my way home I floored the car and it began to buck. The engine would rev up to a few k then bog down. The car made it to my driveway about 1/2 mile away but was very unhappy. This morning I went out to drive my car and it started normally, back out of the driveway normally and then when I put it in drive, bogged really bad and died. I started it, it made it to the end of the street barely...revving sluggishly and wanting to die while I had my foot all the way in it. At the end of the street it died permanently. If I crank it it sometimes starts for a split second, gets to idle rpm and slowly falls down running lumpy as hell. Holds at 250 rpm for a sec then dies. Other times it won't start at all.

There is a CEL. How can I check this? Is the car obd1 or 2? I assume 1...

It has consistent spark, at leats on the driver side bank. The plugs are fuel soaked but that could be the effect of what ever is keeping it from running, not the cause. Timing belt looks normal and fully tensioned.

The problem appears to be less severe after sitting for several hours? Not sure about that but I think so.

What should happen if you unplug the air meter and start the car? Will they idle?

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I scanned it. it has the following errors codes:

24. Intake Air Temperature Sensor signal

31. Air Flow Meter signal (Vacuum Sensor signal)

Any Ideas?

Did you check the Fuel Filter..?

No, nor did I check to see if the CD player is skipping.

:P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Some of your symptoms are consistent with coil failure. Search for prior threads on coil failure. If one coil (out of two) goes out, your engine will run verrrry rough, because it is operating on four cylinders instead of eight, but will allow the car to go forward. The other four cylinders will have raw unburned gas coating spark plugs, destroying catalysts (very expensive), etc. Worth checking out. Coils are easy to get to, and you can check the coil and wire easily with an ohmmeter. Email me at dickevans@aol.com if you need factory specs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I got a new used air meter and got no change. Car still turns over but won't even fire. The car has spark. Fuel pump is a possibility I suppose, but the plugs seem wet. I suppose a compression check is in order.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 1992 SC400 that I bought about 5 days ago. The alt died after 4 days and I swapped in a new one myself. The car ran fine and I think this is unrelated to the issue at hand.

Last night on my way home I floored the car and it began to buck. The engine would rev up to a few k then bog down. The car made it to my driveway about 1/2 mile away but was very unhappy. This morning I went out to drive my car and it started normally, back out of the driveway normally and then when I put it in drive, bogged really bad and died. I started it, it made it to the end of the street barely...revving sluggishly and wanting to die while I had my foot all the way in it. At the end of the street it died permanently. If I crank it it sometimes starts for a split second, gets to idle rpm and slowly falls down running lumpy as hell. Holds at 250 rpm for a sec then dies. Other times it won't start at all.

There is a CEL. How can I check this? Is the car obd1 or 2? I assume 1...

It has consistent spark, at leats on the driver side bank. The plugs are fuel soaked but that could be the effect of what ever is keeping it from running, not the cause. Timing belt looks normal and fully tensioned.

The problem appears to be less severe after sitting for several hours? Not sure about that but I think so.

What should happen if you unplug the air meter and start the car? Will they idle?

It's your ECU.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, it will fire for a second on rare occasions and die instantly. It still seems to be connected somehow to sitting for a while. The ECU crossed my mind....have you seen this before or guessing? Do you know of a way to check it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

SeanStock -

Did you resolve your starting issue?

I'm having a similar problem with an '92 SC300. If the car is sitting for a day, it will start up and for about 15 minutes. Afterwards, the revs will drop and the engine will die. When attempting to restart the engine will run for a second at idle then die again. Let everything cool off, then it will start back up and run for 15 minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SeanStock -

Did you resolve your starting issue?

I'm having a similar problem with an '92 SC300. If the car is sitting for a day, it will start up and for about 15 minutes. Afterwards, the revs will drop and the engine will die. When attempting to restart the engine will run for a second at idle then die again. Let everything cool off, then it will start back up and run for 15 minutes.

shadow750

A faulty engine coolant temperature sensor can cause an engine to behave like it had an old fashion hand choke that was always being kept full on (ie full rich).

Great for starting and warming up a cold engine, but quickly floods and stalls a warm engine. Once the engine cools - several hours?- it starts great but 15 minutes later, warmed up and the trouble starts all over again.

A bad ECT sensor should generate an OBD malfunction code.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have a 1992 SC400 that I bought about 5 days ago. The alt died after 4 days and I swapped in a new one myself. The car ran fine and I think this is unrelated to the issue at hand.

Last night on my way home I floored the car and it began to buck. The engine would rev up to a few k then bog down. The car made it to my driveway about 1/2 mile away but was very unhappy. This morning I went out to drive my car and it started normally, back out of the driveway normally and then when I put it in drive, bogged really bad and died. I started it, it made it to the end of the street barely...revving sluggishly and wanting to die while I had my foot all the way in it. At the end of the street it died permanently. If I crank it it sometimes starts for a split second, gets to idle rpm and slowly falls down running lumpy as hell. Holds at 250 rpm for a sec then dies. Other times it won't start at all.

There is a CEL. How can I check this? Is the car obd1 or 2? I assume 1...

It has consistent spark, at leats on the driver side bank. The plugs are fuel soaked but that could be the effect of what ever is keeping it from running, not the cause. Timing belt looks normal and fully tensioned.

The problem appears to be less severe after sitting for several hours? Not sure about that but I think so.

What should happen if you unplug the air meter and start the car? Will they idle?

My 94 SC400 had similar starting and dying symptoms. A temporary fuel pressure gage installed in the fule line (engine compartment) showed a drop in fuel pressure a couple of minutes after start up. The mechanic replaced the fuel pump. This did not solve the problem. He reinstalled the old pump and replaced the fuel pump control module. Again, no joy. He finally replaced both the fuel pump and the fuel pump control module and the problem was solved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership