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Posted

HELP! My power steering has gone out and I am stranded in Mexico (Ajijic). My biceps are getting large, but I dread the thought of trying to drive 2600 miles back to Washington (USA).

I found a master mechanic from Canada. He thinks its a part on the pressure valve. I've searched the web pages and have found two names for it--pressure valve and control valve.

I need some advice before I order something expensive on line.

1. Are they (pressure and control valve) the same thing.

2. Where can I get a part number to be sure I'm getting the right thing?

I have a LS400 1990--and loved it until now.

Adios

Posted

HELP! My power steering has gone out and I am stranded in Mexico (Ajijic). My biceps are getting large, but I dread the thought of trying to drive 2600 miles back to Washington (USA).

I found a master mechanic from Canada. He thinks its a part on the pressure valve. I've searched the web pages and have found two names for it--pressure valve and control valve.

I need some advice before I order something expensive on line.

1. Are they (pressure and control valve) the same thing.

2. Where can I get a part number to be sure I'm getting the right thing?

I have a LS400 1990--and loved it until now.

Adios

Chad:

I am knowledgable about the 1995 LS400 P/S system and there may be significant differences between yours and mine, so treat what I have to say accordingly.

You didn't elaborate much on what My power steering has gone out really means. If you could offer some more details, it will help others help you.

There are two valves of interest in the P/S system. The first is the ACV, or Air Control Valve. It is black plastic, has two hose barbs on it and mounts on the lower, outboard side of the P/S pump. The first hose goes to the downstream side of the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) and the second hose goes to the airchamber/intake manifold. It is usually this valve that packs it in before anything else.

The second valve is the FCV (Flow Control Valve). It is inside the Pressure Port Union that screws into the bottom outboard side of the P/S pump. The Pressure Port Union is the threaded piece that the high pressure (Metal) P/S hose connects to. I very seriously doubt that there is anything wrong with this valve.

If you get a hold of a new or re-manufactured P/S pump, the flow control valve comes with it (installed inside of the pump). The ACV valve needs to be purchased as a seperate item and I'd recommend that you install a new one with a new/re-man pump.

Now, onto one of my "favorite" subjects; The P/S Rack Solenoid Filter. I'm not going to wear the tips of my fingers to stubs re-typing information from previous posts. Please do a search for Solenoid filter, etc. Also, start at this post; http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ndpost&p=166483

You will see a number of different opinions, but generally, I think everyone arrives at pretty much the same conclusion. That is, the filter on the Rack Solenoid needs to be removed and cleaned periodically.

Posted

I have worried about this thread all day and could not help.. but must say Threadcutter came through and my hat is off to you and I hope/pray to Chad Olsen that all works out as well, as I'm sure it will.. Let us Know.

Posted

HELP! My power steering has gone out and I am stranded in Mexico (Ajijic). My biceps are getting large, but I dread the thought of trying to drive 2600 miles back to Washington (USA).

I found a master mechanic from Canada. He thinks its a part on the pressure valve. I've searched the web pages and have found two names for it--pressure valve and control valve.

I need some advice before I order something expensive on line.

1. Are they (pressure and control valve) the same thing.

2. Where can I get a part number to be sure I'm getting the right thing?

I have a LS400 1990--and loved it until now.

Adios

Chad:

Some other advice that you may find helpful:

I found a master mechanic from Canada

DO NOT buy him or otherwise offer him a "3.2" Beer.

DO NOT mention Canada, Hockey, or the Olympics in the same sentence. They're real "touchy" about a "little game" that "didn't exactly go their way" today. I work up there & I'm layin' low for a while.......

Posted

The pressure control valve part # is 44020-50010 for the 90-92 LS400 which is the large valve near where the steering yoke [universal] is. It lists on my parts list as $551 yeeek.

Posted

HELP! My power steering has gone out and I am stranded in Mexico (Ajijic). My biceps are getting large, but I dread the thought of trying to drive 2600 miles back to Washington (USA).

I found a master mechanic from Canada. He thinks its a part on the pressure valve. I've searched the web pages and have found two names for it--pressure valve and control valve.

I need some advice before I order something expensive on line.

1. Are they (pressure and control valve) the same thing.

2. Where can I get a part number to be sure I'm getting the right thing?

I have a LS400 1990--and loved it until now.

Adios

Chad:

I am knowledgable about the 1995 LS400 P/S system and there may be significant differences between yours and mine, so treat what I have to say accordingly.

You didn't elaborate much on what My power steering has gone out really means. If you could offer some more details, it will help others help you.

There are two valves of interest in the P/S system. The first is the ACV, or Air Control Valve. It is black plastic, has two hose barbs on it and mounts on the lower, outboard side of the P/S pump. The first hose goes to the downstream side of the MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) and the second hose goes to the airchamber/intake manifold. It is usually this valve that packs it in before anything else.

The second valve is the FCV (Flow Control Valve). It is inside the Pressure Port Union that screws into the bottom outboard side of the P/S pump. The Pressure Port Union is the threaded piece that the high pressure (Metal) P/S hose connects to. I very seriously doubt that there is anything wrong with this valve.

If you get a hold of a new or re-manufactured P/S pump, the flow control valve comes with it (installed inside of the pump). The ACV valve needs to be purchased as a seperate item and I'd recommend that you install a new one with a new/re-man pump.

Now, onto one of my "favorite" subjects; The P/S Rack Solenoid Filter. I'm not going to wear the tips of my fingers to stubs re-typing information from previous posts. Please do a search for Solenoid filter, etc. Also, start at this post; http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...ndpost&p=166483

You will see a number of different opinions, but generally, I think everyone arrives at pretty much the same conclusion. That is, the filter on the Rack Solenoid needs to be removed and cleaned periodically.

Thank you!

Does your advice hold true if I tell you that I have lost no power steering fluid?

My DISH also went out (they learned I was picking it up from Mexico), so the weather is great, but no TV.

HELP! My power steering has gone out and I am stranded in Mexico (Ajijic). My biceps are getting large, but I dread the thought of trying to drive 2600 miles back to Washington (USA).

I found a master mechanic from Canada. He thinks its a part on the pressure valve. I've searched the web pages and have found two names for it--pressure valve and control valve.

I need some advice before I order something expensive on line.

1. Are they (pressure and control valve) the same thing.

2. Where can I get a part number to be sure I'm getting the right thing?

I have a LS400 1990--and loved it until now.

Adios

Chad:

Some other advice that you may find helpful:

I found a master mechanic from Canada

DO NOT buy him or otherwise offer him a "3.2" Beer.

DO NOT mention Canada, Hockey, or the Olympics in the same sentence. They're real "touchy" about a "little game" that "didn't exactly go their way" today. I work up there & I'm layin' low for a while.......

Threadcutter:

By power steering went out, I mean I was pulling into a parking spot and one of my passengers said they heard something "pop". I didn't hear anything but when we came out I simply had no power steering. I checked the level the next day and found it to be full.

Ajijic has narrow, cobblestone streets and small parking places. I have really given my power steering a work out. Also had some work done on the P/S a few years ago--I believe I had the pump replaced.

Chad

Posted

Thank you!

Does your advice hold true if I tell you that I have lost no power steering fluid?

My DISH also went out (they learned I was picking it up from Mexico), so the weather is great, but no TV.

Threadcutter:

By power steering went out, I mean I was pulling into a parking spot and one of my passengers said they heard something "pop". I didn't hear anything but when we came out I simply had no power steering. I checked the level the next day and found it to be full.

Ajijic has narrow, cobblestone streets and small parking places. I have really given my power steering a work out. Also had some work done on the P/S a few years ago--I believe I had the pump replaced.

Chad

Chad:

Hmmm......lost no fluid, huh?

Start the car, leave in park, open hood, unscrew top on P/S reservoir. You should see turbulence (ripples) in the P/S fluid. This indicates that the fluid is being pumped/recirculated. If no turbulence, the pump is probably hooped.

My DISH also went out We'll come back to this in a moment........

I cannot imagine what the "pop" could have been. Your serpentine belt is OK? Is the serp belt tensioner OK? Not loose & allowing the serp belt to slip? Are you having any belt squeal? Does your AC work? Are you leaking any P/S fluid anywhere? Have you looked on top of the plastic "under engine cover" for leaking fluid? Have you had any problems with your alternator lately?

If you get the car up above 30 or 40 MPH, does the steering seem normal? Did you start reading on the thread that I posted above? Maybe the rack solenoid died. I dunno how that would be associated with a "pop" though. Maybe a fuse cleared that provides power to the rack solenoid. If you put a new P/S pump in, please clean the rack solenoid filter as well. Otherwise, you'll have these same problems all over again and sooner than you think.

OK; My DISH also went out. I hate television. I love fishing. I love cold beer. I love warm climates. I know what I'd do............

Posted

Hey Chad, just wishing you the best with this one....keep your posts coming. I'm sure we are all curious, does one just "drive down" through mexico with the LS? Whats that like? Sure might be interesting to hear the rest of the story.

Posted

Thank you!

Does your advice hold true if I tell you that I have lost no power steering fluid?

My DISH also went out (they learned I was picking it up from Mexico), so the weather is great, but no TV.

Threadcutter:

By power steering went out, I mean I was pulling into a parking spot and one of my passengers said they heard something "pop". I didn't hear anything but when we came out I simply had no power steering. I checked the level the next day and found it to be full.

Ajijic has narrow, cobblestone streets and small parking places. I have really given my power steering a work out. Also had some work done on the P/S a few years ago--I believe I had the pump replaced.

Chad

Chad:

Hmmm......lost no fluid, huh?

Start the car, leave in park, open hood, unscrew top on P/S reservoir. You should see turbulence (ripples) in the P/S fluid. This indicates that the fluid is being pumped/recirculated. If no turbulence, the pump is probably hooped.

My DISH also went out We'll come back to this in a moment........

I cannot imagine what the "pop" could have been. Your serpentine belt is OK? Is the serp belt tensioner OK? Not loose & allowing the serp belt to slip? Are you having any belt squeal? Does your AC work? Are you leaking any P/S fluid anywhere? Have you looked on top of the plastic "under engine cover" for leaking fluid? Have you had any problems with your alternator lately?

If you get the car up above 30 or 40 MPH, does the steering seem normal? Did you start reading on the thread that I posted above? Maybe the rack solenoid died. I dunno how that would be associated with a "pop" though. Maybe a fuse cleared that provides power to the rack solenoid. If you put a new P/S pump in, please clean the rack solenoid filter as well. Otherwise, you'll have these same problems all over again and sooner than you think.

OK; My DISH also went out. I hate television. I love fishing. I love cold beer. I love warm climates. I know what I'd do............

Threadcutter:

I haven't read your other stuff yet, but will next. My Canadian Master Mechanic (CMM) also mentioned something about the solenoid. He called it the P/S solenoid valve--screws into the P/S rack. This, he thinks is the problem. What do I have to buy to get this solenoid valve? Like I said, I heard no "pop". Only one in a party of three heard it and he had downed a few "cold beers".

The fuse is OK. Belt is OK. No slippage. A/C works. No leakage. No turbulance/bubbles in reservoir. Alternator OK. Drives OK at higher speeds--going stright--but I don't think the P/S is working, just don't turn as much. I'll double-check that.

More info:

In August 2001 I replaced the P/S Pump Assembly ($556 including labor).

In June, 2002, I again replaced the P/S Pump Assembly (no charge).

In November, 2005, I replaced the P/S Pressure Switch amd the P/S Reservoir $548 including labor).

Driving 1300 miles in Mexico to Ajijic is an experience. Most wouldn't do it, but that is what memories are made of.. I don't remember my last week at the beach, but I'll always remember three days of tolls, food, lodging, runing out of pesos. We started out with $4000 pesos. Seemed like plenty--about $400US to go 1300 miles. We didn't figure on the toll roads--expensive--and the free roads are packed with large trucks with crazy drivers. More later.

Chad

Posted

Chad:

My Canadian Master Mechanic (CMM) also mentioned something about the solenoid. He called it the P/S solenoid valve--screws into the P/S rack. This, he thinks is the problem. What do I have to buy to get this solenoid valve?

I wouldn't buy anything just yet. Get your mechanic to remove the rack solenoid (see posts) & test it on 12Vdc. There are only two wires, use the battery to power the solenoid. If the solenoid cycles with the application & removal of power and the pluger inside the solenoid moves freely, that aint' it. While he has the solenoid off, DEFINITELY have him clean the screen. I refuse to call it a filter; it's a little POS as far as I can tell...

When that screen gets clogged, the discharge pressure on the P/S pump goes up & kills the pump over time. The pump leaks, drips P/S fluid on the alternator & kills the alternator.

The solenoid opens up all the way (when energized at low speeds) and allows maximum flow/pressure of fluid throught the rack, which gives you "one finger" turning. At higher speeds, the solenoid closes & the fluid flow/pressure returns to normal, because you don't need/want that much "assist" at higher speeds. That is why I asked how it steered at higher speeds.

Posted

Chad:

No turbulance/bubbles in reservoir. Alternator OK. Drives OK at higher speeds--going stright--but I don't think the P/S is working, just don't turn as much. I'll double-check that.

I'll have to double check, but I believe you should see a little bit of "rippling" on the surface of your P/S fluid in the pump reservoir. You may need a flashlight to see it clearly. My point is that when you see the rippling, that proves your P/S pump is working (at least a little bit). I wouldn't expect to see any bubbles though. The more you tell me, the more I think it's just a clogged solenoid screen. The "pop" noise was probably coincendatal (or Negro Modelo induced).

Posted

Chad:

No turbulance/bubbles in reservoir. Alternator OK. Drives OK at higher speeds--going stright--but I don't think the P/S is working, just don't turn as much. I'll double-check that.

I'll have to double check, but I believe you should see a little bit of "rippling" on the surface of your P/S fluid in the pump reservoir. You may need a flashlight to see it clearly. My point is that when you see the rippling, that proves your P/S pump is working (at least a little bit). I wouldn't expect to see any bubbles though. The more you tell me, the more I think it's just a clogged solenoid screen. The "pop" noise was probably coincendatal (or Negro Modelo induced).

Threadcutter:

Finished reading the post you sent me to. Post #12 from prix suggested a test of the power steering at higher RPMs while in park. (This would rule out speed being a factor in the change in P/S). I rived up to 3500 RPM and lo and behold the P/S worked fine!! So...what does this tell me?

From the posts I guess I'm right back to the Control/pressure valve and solenoid and filter (screen). I called my CMM but not in today--saturday. I may call the shop in the States when I've spent a fortune and see what they have to say. They could Fedex a part (if I give them my credit card #).

One more thing. I had the rack and pinion (life time warrenty) replaced in August 2005.

Off to the Saturday Market in Ajijic. They won't have any P/S parts, but just about everything else.

The most important words in Spanish: cerveza, por favor (I prefer Pacifco) and banos, por favor.

Adios, Chad

Posted

Chad:

No turbulance/bubbles in reservoir. Alternator OK. Drives OK at higher speeds--going stright--but I don't think the P/S is working, just don't turn as much. I'll double-check that.

I'll have to double check, but I believe you should see a little bit of "rippling" on the surface of your P/S fluid in the pump reservoir. You may need a flashlight to see it clearly. My point is that when you see the rippling, that proves your P/S pump is working (at least a little bit). I wouldn't expect to see any bubbles though. The more you tell me, the more I think it's just a clogged solenoid screen. The "pop" noise was probably coincendatal (or Negro Modelo induced).

Threadcutter:

Finished reading the post you sent me to. Post #12 from prix suggested a test of the power steering at higher RPMs while in park. (This would rule out speed being a factor in the change in P/S). I rived up to 3500 RPM and lo and behold the P/S worked fine!! So...what does this tell me?

From the posts I guess I'm right back to the Control/pressure valve and solenoid and filter (screen). I called my CMM but not in today--saturday. I may call the shop in the States when I've spent a fortune and see what they have to say. They could Fedex a part (if I give them my credit card #).

One more thing. I had the rack and pinion (life time warrenty) replaced in August 2005.

Off to the Saturday Market in Ajijic. They won't have any P/S parts, but just about everything else.

The most important words in Spanish: cerveza, por favor (I prefer Pacifco) and banos, por favor.

Adios, Chad

Chad:

I'd do one thing first, it'll take about an hour of your CMM's time;

Pull the rack solenoid. Check the screen to see if it's clogged. If it is, clean it. Temporarily jumper 12 Vdc to the solenoid on the bench.....listen for the "click-clack". Re-install solenoid, top off fluid, burp the system & try driving it.

The most important words in Spanish: cerveza, por favor (I prefer Pacifco) and banos, por favor.

Uh uh;

Senor; Ocho cerveza, por favor (negro modelo). Andele! Muchos Gracias!

Posted

Chad:

No turbulance/bubbles in reservoir. Alternator OK. Drives OK at higher speeds--going stright--but I don't think the P/S is working, just don't turn as much. I'll double-check that.

I'll have to double check, but I believe you should see a little bit of "rippling" on the surface of your P/S fluid in the pump reservoir. You may need a flashlight to see it clearly. My point is that when you see the rippling, that proves your P/S pump is working (at least a little bit). I wouldn't expect to see any bubbles though. The more you tell me, the more I think it's just a clogged solenoid screen. The "pop" noise was probably coincendatal (or Negro Modelo induced).

Threadcutter:

Finished reading the post you sent me to. Post #12 from prix suggested a test of the power steering at higher RPMs while in park. (This would rule out speed being a factor in the change in P/S). I rived up to 3500 RPM and lo and behold the P/S worked fine!! So...what does this tell me?

From the posts I guess I'm right back to the Control/pressure valve and solenoid and filter (screen). I called my CMM but not in today--saturday. I may call the shop in the States when I've spent a fortune and see what they have to say. They could Fedex a part (if I give them my credit card #).

One more thing. I had the rack and pinion (life time warrenty) replaced in August 2005.

Off to the Saturday Market in Ajijic. They won't have any P/S parts, but just about everything else.

The most important words in Spanish: cerveza, por favor (I prefer Pacifco) and banos, por favor.

Adios, Chad

Chad:

I'd do one thing first, it'll take about an hour of your CMM's time;

Pull the rack solenoid. Check the screen to see if it's clogged. If it is, clean it. Temporarily jumper 12 Vdc to the solenoid on the bench.....listen for the "click-clack". Re-install solenoid, top off fluid, burp the system & try driving it.

The most important words in Spanish: cerveza, por favor (I prefer Pacifco) and banos, por favor.

Uh uh;

Senor; Ocho cerveza, por favor (negro modelo). Andele! Muchos Gracias!

Threadcutter:

Told the CMM that I was a member of a Lexus Support Group and it was recommended he perform the above operation. He said that he had done the electronic test before and gotten no "click-clack", but didn't know about the filter. So we went to the supermercado across the street to shop for an hour (tequila and cerveza).

We return. He says "Its Fixed!" He said he removed the solenoid and cleaned it out as best he could and got it to start clicking. Then he cleaned the filter--he said it wasn't too dirty--put it all back to gather and it worked! It's not 100%. Still doesn't work well at low RPMs. Needs to get to 1000-1500. But it is at about 85%--good enough to drive back to the States.

Many thanks to you Threadcutter--you the man! (For Lexus P/S, anyway). I am no longer "Stranded in Mexico". Saved us a fortune.

Gracias, Chad (and Tonia).

Posted

Threadcutter:

Told the CMM that I was a member of a Lexus Support Group and it was recommended he perform the above operation. He said that he had done the electronic test before and gotten no "click-clack", but didn't know about the filter. So we went to the supermercado across the street to shop for an hour (tequila and cerveza).

We return. He says "Its Fixed!" He said he removed the solenoid and cleaned it out as best he could and got it to start clicking. Then he cleaned the filter--he said it wasn't too dirty--put it all back to gather and it worked! It's not 100%. Still doesn't work well at low RPMs. Needs to get to 1000-1500. But it is at about 85%--good enough to drive back to the States.

Then he cleaned the filter--he said it wasn't too dirty--put it all back to gather and it worked! It's not 100%. Still doesn't work well at low RPMs. Needs to get to 1000-1500. But it is at about 85%--good enough to drive back to the States.

Chad:

Betcha the filter in the Pump reservoir is gunked up & could use a cleaning too.........

Did your CMM entirely flush the old fluid, run new fluid until clean? That's worthwhile too.

I know you're delighted with the improvement, but the "system" should be "like new", otherwise, you run the risk of the solenoid filter clogging, raising system pressure & damaging the pump (then the alternator, blah, blah, blah..........). Ad Infinitum......

Posted

ive been watching this thread since the start and im glad its finally working out for you


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