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After I had my radiator replaced today, my mechanic pointed out a few other wear and tear maintenance items needing attention. I just wanted to recieve a 2nd opinion from you fine folks because this looks like some serious coin. The mechanic did point out the problem areas so they do exist, but I need to know if I am going to be raped on labor.

Here they are:

-replace F and R valve cover gaskets.

-replace transmission front pump seal and pan gasket.

-power steering rack leaking.

-replace left and right tie rod ends

Also, (can't read his handwriting), but rear main seal? <-- don't know what this is.

But any expertise on approximate cost would be appreciated!

Thx,

Snes

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After I had my radiator replaced today, my mechanic pointed out a few other wear and tear maintenance items needing attention. I just wanted to recieve a 2nd opinion from you fine folks because this looks like some serious coin. The mechanic did point out the problem areas so they do exist, but I need to know if I am going to be raped on labor.

Here they are:

-replace F and R valve cover gaskets.

-replace transmission front pump seal and pan gasket.

-power steering rack leaking.

-replace left and right tie rod ends

Also, (can't read his handwriting), but rear main seal? <-- don't know what this is.

But any expertise on approximate cost would be appreciated!

Thx,

Snes

-F&R valve covers; $300 with labor (do em yourself its an afternoon of work, use the FSM's provided)

-Front tranny pump seal and pan gasket...no idea, sounds expensive.

-Power steering rack leaking...labor alone on this will run between $600 and $800, the part...well get ready for a kick in the pants, the one for my ES250 was $975...

-Tie Rod Ends, do em in an afternoon...$35 a piece...$200 for your mechanic to do em prolly.

and a Rear main seal...well...the good news is...the part is like $5....the bad news is...the labor to get to the part and put it back together is nearly $800.

sorry for the bad news slim...anything i can do let me know as i still have a few contacts in TX.

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I pretty much concour.

The valve covers are like $12 a gasket, and in all honestly. While it may seem complex, and overwhelming, that's all it is. There is nothing really mechanically hard, or too complex for anyone *not* be able to accomplish a valve cover gasket change. It's nothing more than read the directions a few times & label a few hoses incase you just go brain dead for abit. ;)

And with the proliferation of knowledge on internet forums like this, it's a huge safety net. Trust me, if all you're doing is taking valve covers off, you can't get into trouble too deep that somebody doesn't have an ansewr for you. ;)

It's more of a sit down friday night & decide you want to do it, take your time on sat & if it's not done, finish on sunday morning. For someone experianced, it takes an hour or two with *basic* hand tools.

On the rear main seal I would like to add a point. (That's the main seal on the rear of the engine that keeps oil from just dumping out. All engines have a front, and a back main seal.)

A lot of mechanics have to drop the transmission to do a rear main seal well. That being said, many Toyota dealers can wiggle in there and do it WITHOUT dropping the transmission! That brings the dreaded rear main seal service cost down from like $800-900 to a more stomacheable $300-400.

I still have the card from a Toyota dealer having quoted me $325 for a RMS change, and $450 for a RMS & rear valve cover change!

If a mechanic quotes a ton, ask them if they're dropping the transmission to get to it. If they say yes, tell them Toyota dealers can accomplish it without doing so & they quote about $300-400 & see if they won't come up with a figure more manageable.

If all else fails, go to a Toyota dealer for the RMS change.

(Since you're inquiring about cost, obviously money IS an object. So my advice is to tell you to avoid Lexus dealers at all cost.)

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Ya, that's pretty close to what they estimated.

-power steering ~$795

-valve cover gaskets ~$345

-tie rod ends ~$120

-transmission front pump seal and pan gasket and rear main seal ~$1150 <----- i think this was separate from the other estimates. They said it would be a little cheaper doing it all at once since they are in there. In any case... :censored: !

Thank you both for your quick feedback. I will probably get a quote from the dealer as well and possible look at the manuals to do the easy stuff.

Thx,

Snes

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I pretty much concour.

The valve covers are like $12 a gasket, and in all honestly. While it may seem complex, and overwhelming, that's all it is. There is nothing really mechanically hard, or too complex for anyone *not* be able to accomplish a valve cover gasket change. It's nothing more than read the directions a few times & label a few hoses incase you just go brain dead for abit. ;)

And with the proliferation of knowledge on internet forums like this, it's a huge safety net. Trust me, if all you're doing is taking valve covers off, you can't get into trouble too deep that somebody doesn't have an ansewr for you. ;)

It's more of a sit down friday night & decide you want to do it, take your time on sat & if it's not done, finish on sunday morning. For someone experianced, it takes an hour or two with *basic* hand tools.

Toys, which valve covers are you referring, F and R? Or just front? I will definately do as much as I can but need to know what TO attempt and NOT to attempt. I am intermediately rated on the mechanical scale at most. :)

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The front valve covers are a completely joke.

Unclamp the breather hose, remove 8x 10mm bolts, valve cover comes off. *if* sealed really well, it make take a little wood block + hammer action to break the seal.

If you've ever taken your upper intake manifold off to clean it, that's all the rear valve cover is. The back 4x 10mm bolts are a paint, but not hard, or impossible to get to.

If you haven't, I suggest simply removing the hoses that conenct directly to the upper intake manifold & label them. That way they mroe or less point *exactly* where they need to go. The electrical connectors... Only fit in one place, so they're impossible to screw up.

Then you get into the fun of taking the manifold off. :)

Great time to replace spark plugs, great time to clean the entire upper intake by hand - giving you back a good 5-10 horsepower in the process, and cleaning the throttlebody, EGR, and IAC valves!

No easier time to replace the rear o2 sensor! No easier time to delete the damned EGR system *provided* you never expect to take an emessions test. ;)

If you can take the intake manifold off, the valve covers are just 8 bolts and some good tugging.

^ and the PCV valve.

Once you learn to take that upper intake manifold off, oh my god. AFA maintance goes, "all roads lead to Rome" is basically what the UIAC is.

If you can become comfortable taking it off... Full engine maintenece becomes such a small, and fast deal it's crazy.

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The front valve covers are a completely joke.

Unclamp the breather hose, remove 8x 10mm bolts, valve cover comes off. *if* sealed really well, it make take a little wood block + hammer action to break the seal.

If you've ever taken your upper intake manifold off to clean it, that's all the rear valve cover is. The back 4x 10mm bolts are a paint, but not hard, or impossible to get to.

If you haven't, I suggest simply removing the hoses that conenct directly to the upper intake manifold & label them. That way they mroe or less point *exactly* where they need to go. The electrical connectors... Only fit in one place, so they're impossible to screw up.

Then you get into the fun of taking the manifold off. :)

Great time to replace spark plugs, great time to clean the entire upper intake by hand - giving you back a good 5-10 horsepower in the process, and cleaning the throttlebody, EGR, and IAC valves!

No easier time to replace the rear o2 sensor! No easier time to delete the damned EGR system *provided* you never expect to take an emessions test. ;)

If you can take the intake manifold off, the valve covers are just 8 bolts and some good tugging.

^ and the PCV valve.

Once you learn to take that upper intake manifold off, oh my god. AFA maintance goes, "all roads lead to Rome" is basically what the UIAC is.

If you can become comfortable taking it off... Full engine maintenece becomes such a small, and fast deal it's crazy.

i would like to add if u do the rear valve cover seal, remove all wiring befroe pulling on the wirking harness that runns across it...

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The front valve covers are a completely joke.

Unclamp the breather hose, remove 8x 10mm bolts, valve cover comes off. *if* sealed really well, it make take a little wood block + hammer action to break the seal.

If you've ever taken your upper intake manifold off to clean it, that's all the rear valve cover is. The back 4x 10mm bolts are a paint, but not hard, or impossible to get to.

If you haven't, I suggest simply removing the hoses that conenct directly to the upper intake manifold & label them. That way they mroe or less point *exactly* where they need to go. The electrical connectors... Only fit in one place, so they're impossible to screw up.

Then you get into the fun of taking the manifold off. :)

Great time to replace spark plugs, great time to clean the entire upper intake by hand - giving you back a good 5-10 horsepower in the process, and cleaning the throttlebody, EGR, and IAC valves!

No easier time to replace the rear o2 sensor! No easier time to delete the damned EGR system *provided* you never expect to take an emessions test. ;)

If you can take the intake manifold off, the valve covers are just 8 bolts and some good tugging.

^ and the PCV valve.

Once you learn to take that upper intake manifold off, oh my god. AFA maintance goes, "all roads lead to Rome" is basically what the UIAC is.

If you can become comfortable taking it off... Full engine maintenece becomes such a small, and fast deal it's crazy.

LOL thanx Toys. I'll just take some of my Ritalin and hash it out in the garage. I appreciate the quick tutorial!

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The front valve covers are a completely joke.

Unclamp the breather hose, remove 8x 10mm bolts, valve cover comes off. *if* sealed really well, it make take a little wood block + hammer action to break the seal.

If you've ever taken your upper intake manifold off to clean it, that's all the rear valve cover is. The back 4x 10mm bolts are a paint, but not hard, or impossible to get to.

If you haven't, I suggest simply removing the hoses that conenct directly to the upper intake manifold & label them. That way they mroe or less point *exactly* where they need to go. The electrical connectors... Only fit in one place, so they're impossible to screw up.

Then you get into the fun of taking the manifold off. :)

Great time to replace spark plugs, great time to clean the entire upper intake by hand - giving you back a good 5-10 horsepower in the process, and cleaning the throttlebody, EGR, and IAC valves!

No easier time to replace the rear o2 sensor! No easier time to delete the damned EGR system *provided* you never expect to take an emessions test. ;)

If you can take the intake manifold off, the valve covers are just 8 bolts and some good tugging.

^ and the PCV valve.

Once you learn to take that upper intake manifold off, oh my god. AFA maintance goes, "all roads lead to Rome" is basically what the UIAC is.

If you can become comfortable taking it off... Full engine maintenece becomes such a small, and fast deal it's crazy.

LOL thanx Toys. I'll just take some of my Ritalin and hash it out in the garage. I appreciate the quick tutorial!

nah you will be fine. It really isnt difficult...Especially with the FSM's that SantaRme posted ;) .

If my cousin can pull em off on her V6 camry, (she couldnt even change her own oil)...then dude, you can do it...no problem.

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The front valve covers are a completely joke.

Unclamp the breather hose, remove 8x 10mm bolts, valve cover comes off. *if* sealed really well, it make take a little wood block + hammer action to break the seal.

If you've ever taken your upper intake manifold off to clean it, that's all the rear valve cover is. The back 4x 10mm bolts are a paint, but not hard, or impossible to get to.

If you haven't, I suggest simply removing the hoses that conenct directly to the upper intake manifold & label them. That way they mroe or less point *exactly* where they need to go. The electrical connectors... Only fit in one place, so they're impossible to screw up.

Then you get into the fun of taking the manifold off. :)

Great time to replace spark plugs, great time to clean the entire upper intake by hand - giving you back a good 5-10 horsepower in the process, and cleaning the throttlebody, EGR, and IAC valves!

No easier time to replace the rear o2 sensor! No easier time to delete the damned EGR system *provided* you never expect to take an emessions test. ;)

If you can take the intake manifold off, the valve covers are just 8 bolts and some good tugging.

^ and the PCV valve.

Once you learn to take that upper intake manifold off, oh my god. AFA maintance goes, "all roads lead to Rome" is basically what the UIAC is.

If you can become comfortable taking it off... Full engine maintenece becomes such a small, and fast deal it's crazy.

LOL thanx Toys. I'll just take some of my Ritalin and hash it out in the garage. I appreciate the quick tutorial!

nah you will be fine. It really isnt difficult...Especially with the FSM's that SantaRme posted ;) .

If my cousin can pull em off on her V6 camry, (she couldnt even change her own oil)...then dude, you can do it...no problem.

Her?!? Nice...gotta love a girl doin some shop! :cheers:

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