xxxavier2k Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 I'm about to remove my engine and tranny to replace my severely damaged transmission (clutch burning issues). I'm thinking though that this would be a good time to change my : rear main oil seal head gaskits valve stem seals I'm also thinking about getting the standard abrasives deluxe port and polish kit and attempt working on my intake and exhaust runners. Does anyone (who has done the port & polish) feel this is a striaght forward diy job??? Any advice??? any thing else that I should consider replacing considering that I drive a '93 Windom with about 85,000 km? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toysrme Posted October 3, 2005 Share Posted October 3, 2005 =) Do it, you'll love it!!! The three of us that ahve done it have gained 25-30bhp+ peak. Lots better between say 4750 & 7000. Exactly where you want the gains! It's a great idea if you're taking the heads off for some reason. Ungodly easier to dissasemble out of the engine bay. Porting 101. Smoothe the short side radious out, but DON'T get rid of the whole thing. Just do a better job blending than the factory did. (With the Aluminum heads & a free night you can actually accomplish that with just sandpaper on your finger running it back & forth with lots of pressure; exactly like if you were fingering the G-sp ... Nevermind. Discussion for another day!) Take the TB off & sharpen the top/bottom chamber split. Grind out all the runners smooth on both that & the lower intake manifold. Sharpen the port split in the head to feed both chambers. Once you do that you should have the hang of it. Go back & grind some away from the valve guides & enlarge the bowl. FYI you notice the SSR (looking form the incomming air side) rises up slightly then goes around the curve to the valve. Be sure as you're porting that you leave some slope facing side (not curivng side) of the SSR. It angles & accellerates airflow into the back (exhaust valve side) of the cylinders. If you make the wall flat, you'll loose velocity, some charge mixing & overall it won't be as good. You don't need a flowbench to do an awsome job. What you need are OD calipers to compair all your ports with. Be sure to have a set of outer diameter calipers! Read all your head porting guides... http://www.miata.net/hakuna/port1.html http://www.miata.net/hakuna/port1.html http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/04...low/index.shtml http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/95518/ http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm http://www.mondellotwister.com/ArtHeadPort.htm http://mototuneusa.com/the_8_phase_motor.htm http://mototuneusa.com/think_fast_intake_porting.htm http://mototuneusa.com/homework.htm http://mototuneusa.com/the_2007_superbike.htm http://mototuneusa.com/super_sonic_nozzle.htm http://mototuneusa.com/success_stories.htm If you do small, HV ports, don't go any smaller than 85% of the valve diameter. It'll choke our engine's off 'cause we don't run over 7000rpm. One thing nobody else will tell you. Unless you've got a die grinder & are taking out huge amounts of matierial at a time, don't worry about porting. it actually takes effort to take tons of meterial out. Further, despite the fact that it is a very sensative job to do; once you get the hang of it you'll notice there really is a huge margin of error if you're only doing a basic port job. You basically have to try to *BLEEP*up to actually *BLEEP*up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxxavier2k Posted October 4, 2005 Author Share Posted October 4, 2005 Hey thanks man! I need all the help I can get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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