1999 Es300 90k Coming Up Ahh Help!

[hern]

Hey guys,

My 90k is coming up in 5000 miles and I need some major help.

A guy I know is going to do it all for me pretty much at cost for all parts and barely anything for doing it all. He's going to do it out of his house I think. Anyways, he told me to go ahead and buy liek fuel filter, oil filter, air filter, and one other filter. What all should I have done?

I told him Tune up (spark plugs), timing belt and exterior belts, thermostat and water pump. What else should I go ahead and have done ?

[mburnickas]

Hey guys,

My 90k is coming up in 5000 miles and I need some major help.

A guy I know is going to do it all for me pretty much at cost for all parts and barely anything for doing it all. He's going to do it out of his house I think. Anyways, he told me to go ahead and buy liek fuel filter, oil filter, air filter, and one other filter. What all should I have done?

I told him Tune up (spark plugs), timing belt and exterior belts, thermostat and water pump. What else should I go ahead and have done ?

←

I would also do cam and crank seals and tension pully. Also why do you need a fuel filter? They are lifetime filters. What about the tranny filter? Rotate tires and check brakes? How about lubing doors. Change PVC too since they are cheap. Flush PS and brake fluid?

[Toysrme]

If you're going to go to the trouble of replacing cam & cran seals, take the upper intake manifold off and hand clean the inside.

Take the valve covers off and replace the valve cover seals also.

[mburnickas]

If you're going to go to the trouble of replacing cam & cran seals, take the upper intake manifold off and hand clean the inside.

Take the valve covers off and replace the valve cover seals also.

←

valve covers, why? If they are not leaking leave it alone. Also why "hand clean" the intake? There is again no, need unless you are having performance issues.

[mugwai]

If you're going to go to the trouble of replacing cam & cran seals, take the upper intake manifold off and hand clean the inside.

Take the valve covers off and replace the valve cover seals also.

←

valve covers, why? If they are not leaking leave it alone. Also why "hand clean" the intake? There is again no, need unless you are having performance issues.

←

there is no such thing as a life time fule filter.especially if you live in ithe USA with all the crappy fule they have. any filter will get issus with water rust or other contaminate's in the fule. the further you are from the pipline and refinery the wors the fule. if you dont chang the filter you can see problems with luging when you let off the gas poor fule mil and lack of performance

[mugwai]

If you're going to go to the trouble of replacing cam & cran seals, take the upper intake manifold off and hand clean the inside.

Take the valve covers off and replace the valve cover seals also.

←

valve covers, why? If they are not leaking leave it alone. Also why "hand clean" the intake? There is again no, need unless you are having performance issues.

←

there is no such thing as a life time fule filter.especially if you live in ithe USA with all the crappy fule they have. any filter will get issus with water rust or other contaminate's in the fule. the further you are from the pipline and refinery the wors the fule. if you dont chang the filter you can see problems with luging when you let off the gas poor fule mil and lack of performance

←

P.S

it is also aalways a good idea to clean your upper intake when you have it off this will help with fule burn and improve mil. some people say it's a wast of time but if it's off you can do a good job much better then you would get with a fule system flush or just a throtle body cleaning. it all come's down to quality of the work it's no diffrent then cleaning the top's of your pistons off when doing a head job wich helps compression and helps smoth the ideal

[monarch]

The variable valve timing engines like your '99 ES come from the factory with a specially reinforced timing belt that's 50% more durable than the already durable previous design Toyota timing belts. So you could wait until 120-140K miles to change it (unless you or the former owner(s) have been frequent lead foot type drivers in which case it should be changed at 90K).

The water pump, cam and crank seals can also wait until 120-140K, especially if the car still has its factory original Toyota Red coolant which prolongs the life of the water pump out to 150K - 250K miles. Toyota Mastertechs generally feel the cam seals don't need replacing except at every 2nd timing belt change.

So I would spend money replacing:

a) Coolant with a 50/50 mix of distilled water and toyota long life antifreeze

B) thermostat and thermostat gasket

c) spark plugs with exact factory original replacements

d) spark plug wires

e) exterior belts

f) new genuine Toyota air filter

g) new genuine Toyota 90915-YZZD1 oil filter

h) drain and refill the transmission oil pan using the type fluid stamped on the transmission oil dipstick (don't worry about the tranny filter until 150K)

i) new DOT 3 brake fluid, preferably Toyota Brand brake fluid

j) scrub throttle plate clean of carbon

k) new fuel filter using am identical genuine Toyota replacement (although you could probably wait until 120-150K)

Get 28% off the price of all genuine Toyota parts at 1sttoyotaparts.com and have them shipped to your doorstep (you don't pay sales tax and that offsets most of the FedEx Ground shipping charge)

[mburnickas]

If you're going to go to the trouble of replacing cam & cran seals, take the upper intake manifold off and hand clean the inside.

Take the valve covers off and replace the valve cover seals also.

←

valve covers, why? If they are not leaking leave it alone. Also why "hand clean" the intake? There is again no, need unless you are having performance issues.

←

there is no such thing as a life time fule filter.especially if you live in ithe USA with all the crappy fule they have. any filter will get issus with water rust or other contaminate's in the fule. the further you are from the pipline and refinery the wors the fule. if you dont chang the filter you can see problems with luging when you let off the gas poor fule mil and lack of performance

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Do a search since this topic has come up before and the outcome was....it is a lifetime filter.

[Geo]

Hey monarch:

Always good to read your posts.

Any good non-dealer repair shops here in Sac ? Someplace where minor stuff/maintance could be done ?

George

[monarch]

Any good non-dealer repair shops here in Sac ?  Someplace where minor stuff/maintance could be done ?

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Actually I live about 35 miles east of Sacramento near Placerville. Up here in the foothills in the little town of Shingle Springs alot of Toyota / Lexus owners take their cars to a Toyota / Lexus specialty shop called "The Toy Shop" The owner has a funny personalized licence plate on his Tacoma pickup that says "Toy Doc"

Since I don't live right in Sacramento I'm not familiar with any of the Toyota specialty shops that likely exist down there.

[Geo]

Monarch: I live in Rancho so I'm not far. Thanks, George

[Toysrme]

This is so late, but why did I list those things???

Replace the valve cover seals becuase with the upper intake off, it's not an extra 1/2 hour worth of work - and they ARE going to leak anyways, if they are not all ready down the back of the rear bank. Stupid tilted angle they use to fit the v6's into the car kills the rear seals.

Clean the upper intake because it will be caked with EGR.

You couldn't dyno any EGR equipped Toyota v6 six months apart (clean to dirty) without loosing 3-5whp from simply carbon build up. From 6 months to a year after being clean, you loose another 3whp. You're talking 10 horsepower at the crank lost over a year of having not cleaned them by the time it's done (It does level off). You can't make that up with an intake LoL!

Even worse for you guys. On the 1mz-fe engines - the ECU uses way more EGR flow than it needs. What the rest of the v6/i6 engine families build up over a few years, they can build up in 6-9 months, it's crazy!

If people would clean the upper intake, you would nearly never see an idle valve, EGR valve, sticking throttle body, or plugged cold-start injector (on VZ's) creating a problem. Lest you're a performance freak, it doesn't even need to be regular deal. 30,000 miles, or at least every 60,000 miles during the plug change (great excuse to do it)

FYI the fuel injectors are in the intake manifold, not the upper intake. They fit into a recess, so they don't really get build-up from oil / carbon on them.

I agree with the fuel filter. Honestly... I haven't run across an import having a bad fuel filter in years. It's got to the point in the last 15 years or so, with the japanese you're doing good to *need* to change the filter twice, maybe once over the lifespan of some of the pumps.

[mburnickas]

This is so late, but why did I list those things???

I agree that at “sometime” they will leak (valve covers) but as the old saying goes “if it is not broke….”. With that very same logic I would need to replace 90% of the car. There is a fine line in the sand for preventative maintenance and it for the owner it needs to be drawn.

I do not know where a dyno test came into the picture but again most times an owner will not remove the intake, let alone clean it; me included. Again most owners of these cars will not even change a tire. Not throwing stones at the LOC people but in general here.

I use a fuel cleaner once per month (every 5 tanks to keep all the good stuff clean). Again, if an EGR breaks ($141 new), my time to remove and clean it is worth more then just replacing it. So again, not worth my time to clean it.