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Paint Pen For Base Color & Clear Coat.


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:cries: I tried using the paint pen and clear coat pen and followed the direction to a T. The results are awful looking! I would have better off not messing with the chips in the paint. Now I have these awful looking areas where it is raise higher than the rest of the paint. Do I now just use a rubbing compound to try and get it leveled out with the surronding paint/clear coat ? Or do I get a grinder and get more agressive and grind it down to the bare metal and start over?

I have several chips on the front bumper and at this point am afraid to do anything to them. What is the best thing to do for chips. The paint pen route is not proving to do any good. At least it looks awful. What is the best thing to do here?

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Here are some notes on this subject-

Notes:

1.The question was also asked if clear touch-up should be used as a final coat to repair chips on clear coat paint. There are two viewpoints to this question. The purist will say yes, the paint has a clear coat and thus, the repair should also. The process is the same as previously described, except the clear coat is substituted for the last 2-3 coats or paint. The practical world says no. The touch-up paint is different from the original paint and is formulated only as a touch-up paint. Once it is applied it should, according to the manufacturer, match well enough to be all but invisible.

2.I have found this to be the case with the numerous repairs on the many cars/colours, I have completed. If you are using the original paint as a touch-up (I have not done this with a clear coated car), then my understanding is that you should use the clear as a topcoat. The colour coat of some paints will many times be relatively dull in appearance. These paints rely on the clear coat to provide the "shine." Try one chip in an area that is not that visible. If the process works, then continue with the rest. If not try the clear coat top layer.

3.Avoid driving vehicle for about 24 hours after completing repairs and wait approximately 14 days before the application of polish and final protection

4.Thoroughly mix paint in a small plastic cup to ensure even mixing / colour

5.Apply a small amount of paint at a time and allow air-drying for 2-3 hours before the application of further coats.

6.Apply multiple coats of colour paint, not one heavy application and you will obtain a far better finish

7.Touch-up paint should be cured after 24-48 hours, allowing you to sand the area flat (apply masking tape around repair to avoid any exterior paint damage) and/or apply a sealant / wax protection

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apply the touchup in several layers, ie.......build it up above the original paint, let dry for a while, then take a sanding pen and spot sand the touchup paint. you can use soap and water as well if you would like, i never do, but it would be safer, if you are a novice.

then after you get the touch up paint blended in to about the right level of the origanal paint, take some rubbing compound or a nice scratch remover and buff it out a couple of times to get the scratch marks off.

if you have a buffer or porter cable like i do, then even better, just buff the spot out, starting with a harsher compound moving to a lighter compound in stages.

i've done this method many many many times, with great results, you can't even tell there was ever touchup paint there.

good luck

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  • 2 weeks later...

It works okay, but I've never gotten a blob with the pen. If you do then you're doing it wrong.

The Langka works better on non metallic paints because the flake tends to float to the top of the blob and get removed with the Langka.

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It works okay, but I've never gotten a blob with the pen. If you do then you're doing it wrong.

The Langka works better on non metallic paints because the flake tends to float to the top of the blob and get removed with the Langka.

I guess langka wouldn't work well for me as I have an 05 with Classic Silver Metallic. I'll try the pen by itself first (langka sounded to easy though).

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