IlyaIlya Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Hey just had my brakes done, it took guy like 10 min for each side, pretty fast, i wonder if i can do it next time myself. but 190 aint too bad for front + back, he did not install OEM though, he used some seramic mintex or something brand, HE claimed they are much nicer then stock. I guess i ll see. they also spent 1 hr looking for my leak, they tested with pressure tester , heater core/ etc is fine. holds pressure fine. they cant find the damn leak, when i came into shop my Heat was not working, after 2 hrs there, it started working, so it has something to do with the condenser? they quoted 390 to have dash removed, and looked at condenser, I think il l wait till summer , dry everything up, and hopefully not have a problem, or might just tackle the removing of dash my self, to save some $$ GRRR I HATE LEAKS heh : ( anyways thanx guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrsel3 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Just pads or rotors & pads? In brooklyn? If so where? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amf1932 Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 There is always a tradeoff when you change to non OEM brakepads. It all comes down to the coefficient of friction. In other words, if the the pads are made of harder material, then you'll have to apply extra pressure to stop the car, but they'll last longer then OEM pads. On the other hand, if they're soft pads, then the car will stop with less pressure, but they won't last as long. So, that's why I always use OEM pads for replacement.....they give the best balance between brake pressure application and wear. This holds true on ALL cars, not just Lexuses. ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsquared Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 The coefficient of friction is the sliding resistance of one substance on another. If you check the stopping distances for a soft pad (like organic), medium hardness (semi-metallic), and hard pad (full metallic or ceramic) you will find that different substances will stop at different rates. A soft pad will not stop the quickest unless it has the lowest coefficient of friction - they usually wear out quicker regardless. Ceramic pads have a low coefficient of friction and a hard enough that they wear a long time. Metallic also has a low coefficient of friction but can be noisy. Semi-metallic can vary on the composition and with that they will vary in the stopping ability (back to the coefficient of friction). Full organic pads usually do very poorly on heads up braking tests with semi-metallic and ceramic pads. The friction factor is due to the physical properties of the pad against the rotor, not the density of the pad. Heat also plays into the friction factor. As the rotor and pads heat up the friction coefficient goes down. Cross-drilled, slotted, or vented rotors help keep a rotor cooler to keep the brakes working efficiently as possible. The drawback of cross-drilled and slotted rotors is that they eat away at the brake pad at a higher rate regardless of the material they are made of. There is always a tradeoff on performance and longevity. OEM is good. There are better products out there for stopping the car. Whatever brand rotor you choose you should get a pad that is matched for pads for performance. It also goes that there are various types of pads that will work well for a specific rotor. I have a high performance vehicle that must run ceramic pads with the rotors - all other pads disintegrate within 10k miles. Ceramic pads on my truck warp the rotors, so I run a semi-metallic pad that has excellent stopping capabilities. When it come time for my ES to get pads I am going to try ceramic because of the wear characteristics and stopping ability. If the ES rotors warp I will probably try the ceramic pad with an aftermarket rotor. My philosophy on parts is that OEM is the minimal standard that I will accept in a replacement part (most name brand aftermarket manufacturers exceed OEM standards with a few exceptions). Flame away... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IlyaIlya Posted March 1, 2005 Author Share Posted March 1, 2005 mrsel3 : well it was on 1810 utica i think its utica and J,thats in bk ny but i m sure any other show will do it for similar price, my friend paid 220 and they buffed his rotors which was in another shop . for me was just brake install, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdotcomer Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 mrsel3 : well it was on 1810 utica i think its utica and J,thats in bk ny but i m sure any other show will do it for similar price, my friend paid 220 and they buffed his rotors which was in another shop . for me was just brake install, ← buffed his rotors? do you mean resurfaced? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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