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Posted

I'm assuming so, this has been the way it has been with my BMW's. Actually the BMW's had a flat crossmember so I could jack there as well, not so with this car...

I'm aware that I have to place the jack on part of the frame, henceforth why I'm assuming the framerails to be fine :D Thanks.


Posted

frame rails always bend under weight , i wouldn;t , but i can usually find another spot like the cross member or suspension arms

Posted
frame rails always bend under weight , i wouldn;t , but i can usually find another spot like the cross member or suspension arms

meh... too late. I didn't have to jack it all the way off of the ground though, and put jackstands under the stock jack locations as soon as it got high enough. Car still handles like a friggin' 40 foot schooner in the twisties, but high speed braking performance has been much improved. Some nimrod at a tire shop had torqued my lugs to about 250 lb/ft :blink: while under charge of the previous owner. And he didn't even torque them wrong consistently! varied about 40 lb/ft each way... damn fools with their impact wrenches...:chairshot:

Oh by the way, I won't have my jacking point problem when I have a garage of my own. I'll be putting a lift in :D

And wouldn't jacking on the crossmember stress mostly the motor mounts? That can't be good for them.

Posted

I always use the factory designated jacking points but use a wood block between the floor jack and....

Posted
frame rails always bend under weight , i wouldn;t , but i can usually find another spot like the cross member or suspension arms

meh... too late. I didn't have to jack it all the way off of the ground though, and put jackstands under the stock jack locations as soon as it got high enough. Car still handles like a friggin' 40 foot schooner in the twisties, but high speed braking performance has been much improved. Some nimrod at a tire shop had torqued my lugs to about 250 lb/ft :blink: while under charge of the previous owner. And he didn't even torque them wrong consistently! varied about 40 lb/ft each way... damn fools with their impact wrenches...:chairshot:

Oh by the way, I won't have my jacking point problem when I have a garage of my own. I'll be putting a lift in :D

And wouldn't jacking on the crossmember stress mostly the motor mounts? That can't be good for them.

It's ok to jack it that way and put the jack stands under the notched out places that are there for the regular jack.

Posted

using an oem jack on the rails is perfect as it is notched in the head to hodl tight

it would work best if you can make a notched base for your jack to push up on

Posted
using an oem jack on the rails is perfect as it is notched in the head to hodl tight

it would work best if you can make a notched base for your jack to push up on

I'll make one of those by molding a hockey puck to the lifting surface of the jack.

Posted

I took a 2x4, cut it so that it was square, put a notch in it with a dado blade for the frame rail, and then contoured the back to roughly match the curvature of my floor jack. Works great! B)

Posted

wood always splinters under weight too much for me to ever use it for holding something especially with me under it

Posted

I expected it to splinter or out right crack in two pieces as well, but it never has given any trouble across the several dozen times I have used it. If it did crack one day, the jack bowl (or whatever that thing is called) would catch the car within 3/4 of an inch anyway, so I have never been worried about it. I never, ever get under the car with just a jack supporting it anyway - I put my trust in safety stands.

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