Please Do Me A Favour

[CanadaCraig]

Hi Threadcutter!! :)

I hope you're OK. Thanks for taking the time to post a response.

It's sad - when I think about it - that many of my frustrations in life have to do with me expecting people to do what they SAY they're going to do. I'm from a different generation - I guess. I still believe that a handshake IS a contract. That 'keeping your word' IS the most important thing you can do in life. Oh well..... You're right of course. [sadly] The mechanic is a doorknob!! A LAZY DOORKNOB!! [lol... I feel better just saying that!! lol] As for 'doing it myself' - well - 42 years have proven to me that I am NOT mechanically inclined. Do you want your car detailed? I'm your guy. Have a relationship problem? Talk to ME. Change the oil in your car? Find someone else!! lol Besides - I don't have any tools OR the place TO 'work on my car'. [i live in an apartment that forbids 'working on your vehicles'] And chances are - I'd try it - really screw things up - and have to pay even more money to have what I did to it - FIXED.

I appreciate what you're saying though.

Thanks,

Craig!! :)

Hi SRK!! :)

I hope you're OK. Thanks for responding.

As for the throttle body - my car does hold a smooth hot idle. Sure - I suppose it could be a bit smoother - but if you have 'listen carefully' than chances are - it's pretty good. [if that makes sense] Still.... maybe it's a stretched [or whatever] throttle CABLE. Sigh. Then again... it could be the MAF. [which was something ELSE the mechanic didn't do - in spite of being asked] It probably wouldn't hurt to clean the TB at some time though.

Please read my next message.

Thanks again.

Craig!! :)

[CanadaCraig]

----------------------------------------------------------

ONE MORE TIME

Hi Guys!! :)

Here is a review!! [for those of you who can't sleep]

I have a 1993 Lexus LS400 with approximately 82,000 miles.

I bought the car in October of 1993.

Many things have been done to the car in an attempt to improve the problem it has with acceleration. [and to just keep it maintained - of course] My car takes 12 to 13 seconds to reach 60 MPH. It should take about 8 seconds. [maybe 8.5] It's very frustrating.

Here's the problem.

Car stopped.

Gas pedal to floor.

Car begins to move. [Very slowly at first and then it picks up speed]

Car is usually FASTER [with a much smoother delivery of power] IF I ease UP on the gas pedal.

Feels like someone is braking when I am trying to accelerate.

Feels as though it's not getting enough AIR.

Takes just as long to reach 60 MPH with pedal to floor as it does with pedal 3/4's of the way down.

Gear changes [when accelerating hard] are abrupt.

Car has slight [yet hard to ignore] hesitation/surge. More pronounced AFTER I try to accelerate hard.

Every now and then car accelerates beautifully - and gears change just as a Lexus gears should.

[which adds to the frustration because then I KNOW what a Lexus is supposed to feel like]

Car often 'explodes' ON. I turn it on and the car will often give a quick 'cough' before starting.

[not sure how else to explain that]

Gas pedal vibrates at around 1500 RPM. Vibration is engine speed related and not vehicle speed related.

[whether that has anything to do with anything - I don't know]

Here is a recap of what has been done to my car. [since I bought it]

- new spark plugs

- new spark plug wires

- new distributor caps, rotors and PCV valve

- new fuel pump

- new fuel filter

- new air filter

- new O2 Sensors [the 2 front ones]

- new power steering pump

- new timing belt

- new accessory belt

- new water pump

- new idler [one of them]

- new throttle position sensor [one of them? Does that make sense?]

- new lower ball joints

And all 32 valves have been adjusted.

[i think that's it]

So... there you have it.

Once again - all the help that I have been given is very much appreciated.

Craig!! :)

[swordfish]

hi craig

as i said in my reply to your other post, i'm thinking the coils are worth the trouble to replace or try swap with another car has on problems.

swordfish

[RFeldes]

Hi Craig,

I'm thinking swordfish has a valid point....Coils!!!

[Threadcutter]

Hi Craig,

I'm thinking swordfish has a valid point....Coils!!!

Craig:

Yep, & in addition, pull each spark plug & look at the coloration. They should all be the same. If they're not, you've possibly got a bad plug, plug wire, coil wire, distributor cap or maybe something is flaky with the fuel injector for that cylinder. Conversely, if that were the case, you'd run rough.

I apologize for being lazy, but did you have the throttle body cleaned? I know others have said they don't think that would have an effect, but I'm not sure I'd rule anything out yet.

[daffy]

Hi Canadacraig,

Could it be computer related problem, not timing the engine correctly on acceleration? Are all the hoses hooked up correctly?

I don't think it's the coils because when they start to fail, it is either an intermittent problem or they quit completely. You can test the ohms through the coils and if both are the same, it's likely not the coils.

Daffy

[914lps]

Om my 84 Saab had something like you were having. Was driving my shop nuts. We started swaping out parts...... We finaily swaped out the coil. Bingo! Old coil would only act up when conditions were just right/wrong. But it tested fine. But when we swaped it out car was fine. But it back in, car acted up again. Took it out, car was again fine. But old coil tested fine.....

I hope what ever it is you get it fixed.

Have you called Lexus corp? At this piont, with all the money you have thrown at the car, they should be willing to help you.

[CanadaCraig]

Hi Guys!! :)

I hope you're OK.

I figure I 'own' this topic - so I might as well use it!! lol :D

By they way - thanks swordfish, RFeldes, Threadcutter, daffy and 914lps. Should have said that MUCH earlier - so I apologize. I appreciate the advice.

So... what's the latest news?

I dropped my LS off at the dealer on May 29th. I picked it up yesterday, June 8th. I find that amazing - to be honest. They truly don't seem to care how long you use their courtesy cars. And that's fine by me. I love driving other people's cars!! By the way - I was driving a very nice 2005 RX330. I wrote my impressions of it in the RX forums.

There was an odd grinding-like noise coming from the front of the engine. The mechanic figured it was the water pump and timing belt. So he replaced both. The pump - somehow - caused a problem with the belt - or visa-versa. [Don't ask - because I couldn't quite make sense of his 'reasoning'] Both the water pump AND the timing belt were replaced just over a couple of years ago. Oh well... they're not charging me for it - so that's fine.

As for the on-going acceleration problem...

This time they cleaned the throttle body [which they say was quite dirty] and checked the condition and position, etc., of the throttle cable. All is well. And they replaced one of the ignition coils. Not sure why just one - but there you go. Sadly... none of what they did had ANY effect on how it drives.

The service manager took my car home with him for a few days. [with my permission] He said that my car won't go faster than 118 MPH. [Where he managed to drive 118 MPH is anyone's guess. LOL] But he did seem to feel that [after all the work was done] it accelerated better [than before] above 80 MPH. I don't know if that's true or not. But that's not really the problem. [or at least - that's not what bothers me] As before - my car is really VERY nice if driven only semi-aggressively. But after an hour or so [especially if I floor it from a dead stop] it begins to hesitate and surge and the gear changes become more abrupt. This is especially true when 'red-lined'. In fact - the entire 'feeling' of the car changes. It goes from being quite pleasant to quite frustrating and annoying. The idle also becomes erratic. [like the engine is trying to clear its throat] It's noticeably worse at 1400 RPM's and 1800 RPM's. [for some reason]

My car takes 34 seconds to reach 100 mph. [just so you know] It should take only about 21 seconds.

Last night I went for a very long drive. [about 2 hours worth] The first hour or so was quite nice. If it drove like that ALL THE TIME - I'd be quite happy.

I am thinking of asking them to change the other ignition coil and to replace the EGR Valve. [and maybe even the knock sensor] Would that be a smart thing to do?! I'm not sure what else there IS to do - to be honest.

Well... there you have it.

Craig!! :)

[Threadcutter]

Craig:

And they replaced one of the ignition coils. Not sure why just one - but there you go. Sadly... none of what they did had ANY effect on how it drives.

I am thinking of asking them to change the other ignition coil and to replace the EGR Valve. [and maybe even the knock sensor] Would that be a smart thing to do?! I'm not sure what else there IS to do - to be honest.

Wouldn't it REALLY, REALLY Suck if it was the "other" ignition coil that needed to be changed out??????..........

IMO................The second ignition coil is low hanging fruit........Do It!!!

[nc211]

Craig, I remember my first car "87 VW GTI" would run strong for awhile, then the power would cut out by about 40%. I would litterally push in the clutch and turn off and on the car. This would reset the power back to full.....for about an hour. I sold the car before I could fix it. However, I came across the new owner about a year later and asked her what the problem was....She said it was a vacum leak and the dealership fixed it for like $100 bucks...

I haven't read the entire thread, but has the car's vacum system been checked and rechecked?

Hi Guys!! :)

I hope you're OK.

I figure I 'own' this topic - so I might as well use it!! lol :D

By they way - thanks swordfish, RFeldes, Threadcutter, daffy and 914lps. Should have said that MUCH earlier - so I apologize. I appreciate the advice.

So... what's the latest news?

I dropped my LS off at the dealer on May 29th. I picked it up yesterday, June 8th. I find that amazing - to be honest. They truly don't seem to care how long you use their courtesy cars. And that's fine by me. I love driving other people's cars!! By the way - I was driving a very nice 2005 RX330. I wrote my impressions of it in the RX forums.

There was an odd grinding-like noise coming from the front of the engine. The mechanic figured it was the water pump and timing belt. So he replaced both. The pump - somehow - caused a problem with the belt - or visa-versa. [Don't ask - because I couldn't quite make sense of his 'reasoning'] Both the water pump AND the timing belt were replaced just over a couple of years ago. Oh well... they're not charging me for it - so that's fine.

As for the on-going acceleration problem...

This time they cleaned the throttle body [which they say was quite dirty] and checked the condition and position, etc., of the throttle cable. All is well. And they replaced one of the ignition coils. Not sure why just one - but there you go. Sadly... none of what they did had ANY effect on how it drives.

The service manager took my car home with him for a few days. [with my permission] He said that my car won't go faster than 118 MPH. [Where he managed to drive 118 MPH is anyone's guess. LOL] But he did seem to feel that [after all the work was done] it accelerated better [than before] above 80 MPH. I don't know if that's true or not. But that's not really the problem. [or at least - that's not what bothers me] As before - my car is really VERY nice if driven only semi-aggressively. But after an hour or so [especially if I floor it from a dead stop] it begins to hesitate and surge and the gear changes become more abrupt. This is especially true when 'red-lined'. In fact - the entire 'feeling' of the car changes. It goes from being quite pleasant to quite frustrating and annoying. The idle also becomes erratic. [like the engine is trying to clear its throat] It's noticeably worse at 1400 RPM's and 1800 RPM's. [for some reason]

My car takes 34 seconds to reach 100 mph. [just so you know] It should take only about 21 seconds.

Last night I went for a very long drive. [about 2 hours worth] The first hour or so was quite nice. If it drove like that ALL THE TIME - I'd be quite happy.

I am thinking of asking them to change the other ignition coil and to replace the EGR Valve. [and maybe even the knock sensor] Would that be a smart thing to do?! I'm not sure what else there IS to do - to be honest.

Well... there you have it.

Craig!! :)

[swordfish]

hi craig

sorry to hear u still have that problem. Nothing to help at his end, I still have the low power prob as b 4, slow to accelerate after about 4500 rpm,but have spoken to a EFI guru down here, he says a slight miss at higher rpm on such a smooth engine as the LS is not always noticable like on a normal engine, and he finds many times can be traced to a faulty ignition wire. Just passing it on, but mine was the same after i changed plugs and leads. Would love to hear if u change that other coil though....

[thieaux]

Hey guys , well i got great news for you, got my problem fix, after a year of tinkering with ecu and tps , all sorts of electronics .

Sorry craig and swordfish you havent ffigured out your problem.. :(

Well here it goes, as you know my car wouldnt go pass after 4k, iand it wouldn change gears on wot with the kickdown on it would just stay there on 4k.

So a buddy of mine finally got the "the launch" diagnostic system for his garage and decide it to test it with my car.....SURPRISE SURPRISE no ecu codes , thats not news.

But we went for a ride with the launch connected , and look at tha values for the engine

MY CLUSTER WASNT DISPLAYING CORRECTLY what i thought was 4k was 5875 rpms, and the reason it didnt wanrt to shift was a low trans oil, combined with a bad temp sensor it read -16 celcius on a 38 c degree day.

So as you see i was chasing 3 separate problems that acted as one.

BUT this diagnostic system is the Shizzle , im so happa now, guys sorry you havent fix yours let me know if aicand do something for you from this end.

[swordfish]

Hey guys , well i got great news for you, got my problem fix, after a year of tinkering with ecu and tps , all sorts of electronics .

Sorry craig and swordfish you havent ffigured out your problem.. :(

Well here it goes, as you know my car wouldnt go pass after 4k, iand it wouldn change gears on wot with the kickdown on it would just stay there on 4k.

So a buddy of mine finally got the "the launch" diagnostic system for his garage and decide it to test it with my car.....SURPRISE SURPRISE no ecu codes , thats not news.

But we went for a ride with the launch connected , and look at tha values for the engine

MY CLUSTER WASNT DISPLAYING CORRECTLY what i thought was 4k was 5875 rpms, and the reason it didnt wanrt to shift was a low trans oil, combined with a bad temp sensor it read -16 celcius on a 38 c degree day.

So as you see i was chasing 3 separate problems that acted as one.

BUT this diagnostic system is the Shizzle , im so happa now, guys sorry you havent fix yours let me know if aicand do something for you from this end.

hey thieaux

glad to hear your car fixed!!!

you said temp sensor faulty, thats the engine temp sensor or the transmsiiion???

[thieaux]

The ECU temp sensor, for the efi , i mean i took out and check the resistence with my multimeter and hot pot of water , and it was alright, but with the launch it read differently, dont know why..

If you guys can get a hold of a diagnostic system that display the values in real time, you could pin point your problem right away trust me , theres a couple of software out there that u can download from p2pp networks, and get a cable from ebay, hook it up to your laptop and voila , instant 'real time" diagnostic system...

best of luck , any info dont hesitet to shout, i can get values from the launch on my car and relay them to you for comparison.

The ECU temp sensor, for the efi , i mean i took out and check the resistence with my multimeter and hot pot of water , and it was alright, but with the launch it read differently, dont know why..

If you guys can get a hold of a diagnostic system that display the values in real time, you could pin point your problem right away trust me , theres a couple of software out there that u can download from p2pp networks, and get a cable from ebay, hook it up to your laptop and voila , instant 'real time" diagnostic system...

best of luck , any info dont hesitet to shout, i can get values from the launch on my car and relay them to you for comparison.

sorry forgot to the tell you that i didnt got a mil code, the sensor was just reading wrong , remember that the mil will only go off , if theres a short or opne circuit , not if its not reading correct.

[thieaux]

Craig try to unplug the water temp sensor and runing the car , tell us what it did. (Its located right next to the thermostat housing it has 2 cables comig out of it. If you stand in front of the car it would be to the left of the thermostat housing just beneath the ignnition coil , right next to it thers the gauge temp sensor tha has only one cabel comig olut of it.

[swordfish]

hi guys

just got back on site-am all ears on this one- will check my sensor tomorrow and report

swordfish

[Alexi]

QUOTE(thieaux)

Craig try to unplug the water temp sensor and runing the car , tell us what it did. (Its located right next to the thermostat housing it has 2 cables comig out of it. If you stand in front of the car it would be to the left of the thermostat housing just beneath the ignnition coil , right next to it thers the gauge temp sensor tha has only one cabel comig olut of it.

____________________________________

hi. i'm curious . how is that going to improve acceleration?? or did u mean something else?? reason i ask is cause i have a poor acceleration like craig.actually identical!

Al.

PS. Any updates Craig?? i'm all ears too!!!

gl

[corndog]

Im pretty green here, but if the problem were with the transmission, you could check the wires on the left side of the trunk hinge. I read somewhere on here that the fraying or shorting of the trunk wires, were affecting the way the car was shifting. Its free and easy to check. Just pull the little plastic strip off of the left side hinge, and follow the wires to thier hinge point. Remove the electrical tape/plastic tube and see if any of the wires look damaged. The odds are this is not your problem, but its a free check.

My Suburban had a similar problem, it was a more extreme version of your problem. It ended up being the cap/rotor.

[nc211]

Craig, I'm pulling up one of yours from the past amigo! I'm not sure if you still have your LS or not? I recall you saying you had that "towing a boat" feeling, and your acceleration was bad. I'm having that boat feeling as well, and having to stand on the gas a bit more. I have recently done some brake work "replaced rear rotors, cleaned pins, etc..." and the problem seemed to get worse with the new rotors. I was about to head to the shop, when I remembered something strange about my slider pins on the rear brakes..... they were missing the bushings needed to create the back pressure to keep the pads from dragging! I just called my mechanic at the dealership to get his opinion, and he said "If it's missing, the pads can drag, and you will get that towing a boat feeling sometimes, especially in the turns, when the weight of the car pushes the rotors against the outside pads."... He then said, which is why I pulled up your thread "The first generations were worse". He said that it is an EASY thing to over look, even for the most experienced mechanic. I checked the Lexls.com website as suggested in another thread, and wouldn't you know it, there they are, the bushings.

So, do you have those bushings?

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbcaliper.html

I'm picking up the bushings at lunch today, and installing them tonight. I'll post up in the morning if I notice a change.

[ArmyofOne]

Craig, I'm pulling up one of yours from the past amigo! I'm not sure if you still have your LS or not? I recall you saying you had that "towing a boat" feeling, and your acceleration was bad. I'm having that boat feeling as well, and having to stand on the gas a bit more. I have recently done some brake work "replaced rear rotors, cleaned pins, etc..." and the problem seemed to get worse with the new rotors. I was about to head to the shop, when I remembered something strange about my slider pins on the rear brakes..... they were missing the bushings needed to create the back pressure to keep the pads from dragging! I just called my mechanic at the dealership to get his opinion, and he said "If it's missing, the pads can drag, and you will get that towing a boat feeling sometimes, especially in the turns, when the weight of the car pushes the rotors against the outside pads."... He then said, which is why I pulled up your thread "The first generations were worse". He said that it is an EASY thing to over look, even for the most experienced mechanic. I checked the Lexls.com website as suggested in another thread, and wouldn't you know it, there they are, the bushings.

So, do you have those bushings?

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/brake/fbcaliper.html

I'm picking up the bushings at lunch today, and installing them tonight. I'll post up in the morning if I notice a change.

Well craig, having read this thread for over a year...LOL...I think i may have FINALLY come up with a solution...

I know you said they checked it, but check it yourself anyway. Run your car on a hard driving run until its good and hot, then pull it into a parking lot and look under your car at the catalytic converters...if they are glowing red or worse...white , spend the $800 or so and have them replaced and the problem should go away.

Then, at operating temperature, have a friend redline the car (in neutral) for 2-4 seconds. stand at the back of the car and look at the exhaust. if its spitting out chunks (NOT DROPS) of black carbon, your cats have been fried for a while, if its spitting out oil, fuel or flames, (ANYTHING other than water) come back and let me know.

[CanadaCraig]

Hi Threadcutter, nc211, swordfish, thieaux, Alexi, corndog and ArmyofOne!! :)

Thank you - ALL OF YOU - for taking the time to respond to this topic since I last did so myself. Can you believe it? My last message was on June 9th of LAST YEAR!! lol Time flies when your..... um..... OLD!! :P

I'm going to first consider nc211's suggestion regarding those brake bushings and ArmyofOne's suggestion regarding the catalytic converters - and if that doesn't help - I'll seriously consider what the rest of you kindly suggested. By the way, nc211, did those bushings help?!

As for the catalytic converters - I have yet to SEE them glow red or white and I've looked because there does seem to be an awful lot of heat coming from underneath the car [after a long drive] whenever I open the driver's door to get out. Hmmmm... And I'll see if I can find someone willing to gun my car while I check for 'things' coming out of the exhaust. Oddly enough - if anything - the car seems to perform much better [well - every now and them] WHEN I'm accelerating hard from a stop while turning. What that means - is anyone's guess.

More often than not though - it's still a hit a miss thing - acceleration wise. I talked to the Lexus 'guy' about the catalytic converters once and he said that if they were the problem - the acceleration would be consistently poor.

Far more often than not - in order to get my LS to accelerate quickly - I have to manipulate the gas pedal. If I push it down too far - too quickly - it seems to go slower than if I 'play' with a bit and try to trick it into going. [if that makes sense] To be honest - until just recently - I've tried to forget about my LS because it annoyed me so much. But just a few weeks ago I clay barred it, waxed it and Maguired the leather and kinda remember why the LS was on my short list of 'dream cars'. Besides - it only has 144,000 kilometers and TONS of things have already been replaced on it [i.e. PS pump, ignition coils, etc., etc.,] that the money I'd get for it privately OR on a trade wouldn't make getting rid of is a smart move. Besides - if I saw that exact same car with that mileage for sale on a car lot - for what a dealer would be willing to give me for it - I'd probably buy it!!

Thanks again,

Craig!! :)

[CanadaCraig]

Hi Everyone!! :)

I hope you're OK.

I'm trying not to get too excited about this - but it seems as though my LS just might be 'fixed'.

OR close to it.

OK..... let me explain. And maybe you can help me with something as well.

Two weeks ago - I dropped my LS off at my Lexus dealer for an oil change. While my car was in their shop - I asked them to check the catalytic converters again - just to be sure. Besides - I could hear what sounded like an exhaust leak and it seemed to be coming from somewhere near one of the converters. As it turns out though - the converters are fine. But there was a small leak near one of the converters which was 'fixed' by intalling a new gasket. On the day I was supposed to pick up my car - the service manager [The guy I've been dealing with all these years] phoned me and asked me if he could keep my car for a few days because a Lexus 'troubleshooter' was coming by and he was going to talk to him about my car. That was fine with me. Besides - I didn't mind driving their ES350 courtesy car!! The next day - the service manager emails me to tell me that not only did he get a chance to talk to the 'troubleshooter' - but the 'troubleshooter' also took my car out for a drive. The 'troubleshooter' noticed that the car hesitated and made several 'jerking motions' and said the problem with my car is most likely the lockup clutch in the torque converter. [something SRK once suggested - among others - I'm sure] So my dealer decided to 'flush' the transmission. [something that's never been done before to my car] The results of that 'flush' are quite amazing. The car is noticeably quicker and the gears downshift far more willingly. [Especially at part throttle] So I am quite happy. There is STILL the problem with the lockup clutch - however - and I'm not sure what I should do about it. [if anything] And this is where YOU come into it. I've read a lot of Internet pages on torque converters - and I think I have a pretty good idea of how they work. But I can't seem to figure out how the lockup clutch works or what causes it to lock and unlock. And IF there is anyway to fix one that 'acts funny'.

Here's what happens.

I accelerate hard up to 50 mph or so and ease off on the gas pedal. [As one might do while entering a freeway] The lockup clutch in the torque converter tries to lockup and that's when the problem begins. It is that clutch that causes [so I've discovered after all this time] the 'grabby brakes' or 'towing a boat' feeling because it's locking and unlocking five or six times. [At least that's what it feels like] Once that starts - acceleration becomes relatively poor again. But unlike before the transmission flush - acceleration is fine and dandy at speeds below were the lockup clutch would normally engage. [before 40 mph or so] ALSO - if any of you remember me being concerned about a small vibration that I felt in the gas pedal and gear shifter, etc., that vibration starts when the problem with the torque converter lockup begins. But the vibration goes away if I push on the brake pedal just hard enough to turn on the brake lights. The RPM's also rises a bit which tells me that by pressing on the brake pedal I have unlocked the lockup clutch. [i hope this makes sense] If this clutch problem could be fixed - then my LS would be wonderful.

Should I be happy with it the way it is OR should I bother trying to get this lockup clutch problem resolved? Can a lockup clutch be fixed or does one have to replace the torque converter if anything is wrong with it?

ANY thoughts would be appreciated. [As they always have been]

Thanks,

Craig!! :)

[SRK]

Hi Craig - it's been a while since we spoke!

That's very encouraging about the trans. I think it's possible that the repair can be a "bottom fix" which means the trans does not get removed from the car, only that the pan is removed and the workings are repaired in place. Probably the lock-up convertor is fine - it's what is commanding the lockup through the valve body that it at fault. That will be far simpler than the convertor to access and repair.

One of the mechanics at the dealer in Vancouver where I bought my GS told me the only type of repair he has ever performed on these cars is the bottom fix - anything more complicated (and that's extremely rare) they install a complete remanufactured or new trans.

So either it's fixed in place or a new one is installed. Either way that works out well for you.

Keep in touch!

SRK

[pishta]

Hi Craig - it's been a while since we spoke!

That's very encouraging about the trans. I think it's possible that the repair can be a "bottom fix" which means the trans does not get removed from the car, only that the pan is removed and the workings are repaired in place. Probably the lock-up convertor is fine - it's what is commanding the lockup through the valve body that it at fault. That will be far simpler than the convertor to access and repair.

One of the mechanics at the dealer in Vancouver where I bought my GS told me the only type of repair he has ever performed on these cars is the bottom fix - anything more complicated (and that's extremely rare) they install a complete remanufactured or new trans.

So either it's fixed in place or a new one is installed. Either way that works out well for you.

Keep in touch!

SRK

If it is in fact the lock up clutch that is INSIDE the convertor, then you need a new/rebuilt convertor and a transmission shop can install this for you. I would purchase the convertor, I think they are about 350 US and take it to a trans shop and have them put it in for you. It is a difficult job even for a hobbyist as there are abut 5 different harness connections to the trans and you need to remove the exhaust portion, driveshaft, etc. Ask around to find a shop that has done an LS as the driveshaft needs to be installed in the proper phase in relation to the differential flange. the convertor you need is used in a few different cars too if that helps, although the exact part number may be a little different for performance levels. A341E trans:

Applications:

* 1993-1998 Toyota Supra turbo

* 1992-1994 Lexus LS400 4.0L V8

* 1992-1998 Volvo 2.9L I6 (AW30-40LE)

[CanadaCraig]

Hi SRK!! :)

I hope you're OK.

I appreciate the information AND the support. As soon as I hear anything new I'll let you know.

I'm really trying not to get my hopes up too high - but it sure is a lot more 'fun' to drive since that transmission flush.

I do have a question though. [And anyone reading this can answer - of course]

Just how could a lockup torque converter clutch problem effect acceleration?! [A 'torque converters for dummies' explanation would be helpful!!] I'm trying to imagine it in my head but I'm not having much luck. Could it be because it's sometimes 'locked' when it shouldn't be?!

Have a great day!!

Craig!! :)