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Posted

Where do I get a pair? They don't have to be slotted. Also, I will use OEM pads. What do you guys think of the setup?

I don't slalom , and I'm normally good on the brakes.

The stealership wants to bill me 93.00 an hr for 2 hrs , is that fair.


Posted

I like that, "stealership!" Thats great!

Why would you want to use a stock pad with a Brembo rotor? Why not a set of Hawk, or at least some Raybestos QS? I think you may be able to get some Raybestos rotors that are slotted/drilled for that car for a little cheaper.

Posted

I would never buy Brembo. I have in the past (not drilled or slotted) and they are poor quality.

Typical dealer..... Two hours for brakes, what a joke. You can do it within an hour and that is including "2 cold ones".

Posted

really- hmmmm. Toyota just quoted me $512. with new rotors and pads. I don't know. I don't drive aggressively, but I do take brakes very seriously. I thought brembo's were ok, and I heard the stock pads are good for my application- I'm dizzy...any help would be great. :cheers:

this forum is the best!

Posted

I think bembro blanks are great.

I probably use tehm more than most owneres ever might as i run my car quite a bit.

Posted

My lx 5.0 mustang had them warp after 10K miles and my wifes ML420 had the same thing afer 18K miles.....never buy again.Maybe the new drilled and slotted are better.

Ok, we are taking pads and rotors right? The rotors for my 98 ES300 are $77 E and change from my buddies garage (retail) . Pads are like $40 E and change (retail) . My in-laws are about the same in CT.

Wholesale is about 30 to 35% off....$500+ dollars..what am I missing????...These are not even drums here. Even I can do rotors and pads.

Just take your time and do it yourself.plus save 200+ dollars...

Posted

yes sir..very easy. If you have never done it just do some "homework" online and it is not hard at all. Just need a jack, jack stands, I think like 12 or 14 mm for caliper and like 7/8 for lug nuts. I am not 100% of the sockets so do not "take it to the bank".

Also make sure they are 6-pt sockets, 1/2" drive for caliper and you will need a 3/4 drive for lug nut drive.

It is very easy so do not worry.

Oh, also need a clamp to push piston back and something to hold calpier up so it does not put tention on brake lines. Also remember to losen the brake fluid cap on the res so you can push the piston back...

And some anti-seeze type compund for rotor mater surface and lug nuts. Makes it much easier to remove down the road and then re-torque to the specified torque (I do 74) on the snapper wrench (snap-on)...in proper pattern.

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