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1999 Rx300 Door Lock Actuator Repair Less Than $15


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#151 sigtauenus

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Posted 04 July 2010 - 06:48 PM

Just wanted to add that I just did this to the driver door on a 2000 and it worked great. I didn't read through all 10 pages of this topic, I just used the first page with the basic instructions and the picture that is still good.

I used the $5.50 actuator from parts express and the instructions that were linked to remove the door panel. That came apart pretty quick. I'm sure I would have found this if I had read more pages of this topic, but the only problem I had was finding the unused hole in the assembly to hook the new rod through. I had to remove the 3 torx screws for the latch on the outside of the door, remove one torx screw for the latch around the inside face of the door, and remove a 10mm bolt that holds the bottom of the window track. With that loose, I was able to twist the actuator/latch around enough to get to the unused hole.

I did not need to do any grinding or shorten the rod on the new actuator. I set the new actuator on the rod, bent the end up, and then eyeballed the location to drill a hole for a screw to mount to the new actuator, then drilled a second hole 2.25" on center for the second screw, and it lined up great.

Color codes listed on page 1 for splicing the wiring worked perfect.

Thanks guys, this was a great topic and and a cheap fix to an expensive problem. I ordered 4 actuators in anticipation of the others going bad eventually, and I'm lazy enough that I will probably wait until they go bad to replace them.

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#152 J__

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Posted 13 August 2010 - 05:47 PM

hi guys, after a month of loosing the front power door lock on my 2004 RX330, i decided to take it apart and deal with it. With the wonderful help of this thread, i proceeded and hoped for the same internals as the gs. Unfortunately, it isnt. But luckily it was a similiar motor and basic principles. I did screw up majorly however, after taking apart the actuator, it is completely different than the ones on the gs and 1st gen RX. On the 2nd gen rx, the actuator and latch is all within an enclosed unit. I had to take it apart and pull the motor out from inside. However when i put it back together, i forgot the screw back on the 2 screws i took off, 1 being the very important one that held the latch to the rest of the actuator! It was still held on by the case but it wasnt secured. After installing everything back, and trying the door a few times, the actuator finally popped loose from the latch on the 10th or so closing of my drivers door.... this caused neither of the door handles to work and i was unable to open my door..... after a few days of frustration and messing around, it was concluded that the only way to get my door open now was to either 1, tear open my door panel from the inside and gain access from within or 2, cut open my door skin, fix the latch and pretty much get a new door + repaint + blend fender + rear door. New door panel = $960 from dealer, and new door skin + paint + blend = $1000+

In the very end, someone above must of been really looking after me and decided to give me a break and send my body man friend over. I told him the situation and after spending an hour looking at it, both of us still decided the only way is to rip open either side. However at the last moment he thought just to try something for *BLEEP*s and giggles. I lowered the window and stuck a badminton racket down the crevice and started to hammer and push at the loose actuator towards the latch, hoping it would catch and be able to engage it again. after about 5 mins of hammering and finding the correct angle, the door popped open! I was so relieved and felt like i had wings because it saved me a crap load of money for some stupid mistake. I couldnt believe it and carefully made sure the door didnt close, took off the panel right away and actuator out and screwed in that bolt. Now the door and lock works perfectly as new and i've got a reservation booked to treat my buddy and his wife to a nice dinner :D

here's some pix to the 2nd gen RX's actuator for those attempting the fix:

take off the door panel via phlfly's (clublexus) instructions:
http://docs.google.c...uthkey=CMDIxccM

once off, the inside looks like this, it's a bit different than the rx300 where the handle/lock mechanism is on the metal door and not pane. the actuator is located on the left side of the image behind that piece of metal. It is also different than the ones in the rx300 and gs models:
Posted Image

actuator, this unit is 1 confined piece with the locking and power door actuator motor in 1 piece. It doesnt look like there is a way to retrofit a piggy back actuator. We're stuck with the crappy rc motors =( The actuator is held on by 3 bolts where the latch is on the edge of the door, remove those, then unscrew the bottom bolt of the left window rail so the actuator and be pulled out. Also remove the plug on the top.
Posted Image

the back, the colored circles correspond to the ones in the picture of inside the door. The red is the key control and blue is the handle mechanism. The green arrow points to the very important screw that i forgot to screw back causing the latch to disconnect from the rest of the actuator and causing me to be unable to open my door.
Posted Image

inside of the door. the left is the side towards the inside of the car and the right is the door skin.
Posted Image

the actuator taken apart. to do this, you need to remove a clamp piece at 1 end (pulls off) 2 screws, the large one holding the latch to the actuator (dont forget to put back in!) and another small one holding the body of the actuator together. Then carefully pop all the tabs and pull the thing apart. Insides look like this:
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

notice the RC motor. The shaft is a bit different than the ones in the gs. It's slotted and not tappered so the screw thing slides off easily and dont need to be hammered/pulled out. I didnt replace my motor as i didnt have 1 ordered, i was planning on taking it apart to pull the motor out and see if i can source one from a local RC shop. Since i had it apart, i decided i might as well pull the motor apart too and see if i can fix it. I popped the peened tabs on the RC motor holding the plastic white cap and pulled that off and took apart the internals. I then sanded the brushes and the copper conductor shaft inside the motor. It had this black residue on the conductor shaft from the years of spinning against the brush. Once i sanded off the residue, i put it back together and into the casing again. Clamped the 2 shells together + screw back the screws (which i forgot the first time) and put it back in the car. Now it works like a charm! hope this helps anyone with a 2nd gen RX with lock problem.

It took me a total of 20 mins to remove door panel and take out the actuator the first time. 1.5 hours from start to finish first time. The next one im sure i can do everything in under 30 mins.

#153 Vish

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Posted 14 August 2010 - 07:52 AM

Okay, So I just finished my Left rear door. Took much longer than anticipated but I tried to make it as simple as possible and I'm sure I did. I attached the rod onto a circular positive terminal type of socket (it was small, not the type you use on cars). Then I attached that onto the thumb driven lock. It turned out fantastic, the longest part was mounting the damn actuator cause it was in a terrible place, but it came out fantastic. I think the way that I did is the easiest I've seen, well at least for the Rear door.
I'd also like to give a special thanks to everyone ont his forum and the other lexus owners forum that helped me do this, and save a whole lot of money.IMG_0067.JPG IMG_0070.JPG IMG_0072.JPG IMG_0073.JPG IMG_0074.JPG IMG_0068.JPG IMG_0071.JPG

#154 d_dfw

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Posted 14 August 2010 - 08:04 PM

Has anyone bought the generic actuator part locally (i.e. not online)? I want to try it tomorrow if I can get my hands on the part....

#155 mlee4984

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Posted 08 September 2010 - 02:33 PM

Hi All,

I'm new to this site but I've had the issue where my door lock actuator would not work. I'm looking forward to this DIY and this thread is filled with useful information. Before I start, can anyone tell me if this is the correct part I need to purchase from ebay? It looks very similar to everyone's DIY.

http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item19b742f39c

Thanks in advance for your response,
-Mike

#156 code58

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 01:26 AM

Mike, posted to you on CL, but my suggestion would be to get more than 1. They are so dirt cheap from Uneek that if you have another go bad, you'll have the extra 1 or 2 on hand and having them may just insure that you NEVER have another one go bad! Isn't that the way it works??? :lol:

#157 mlee4984

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 08:42 AM

Mike, posted to you on CL, but my suggestion would be to get more than 1. They are so dirt cheap from Uneek that if you have another go bad, you'll have the extra 1 or 2 on hand and having them may just insure that you NEVER have another one go bad! Isn't that the way it works??? :lol:


Thanks for the response, I'll take your suggestion and purchase 2 or 3 of these. I'll post photos of what I do and share with you guys.
-Mike

#158 kbd3636

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Posted 21 October 2010 - 09:05 AM

Deus did the photography duty for which I am grateful because when I'm doing a project, I'm on a mission and seldom make it a priority to take pictures. Then always wish afterwards that I had because I am a very visual person and always want to see the pictures. I also am not highly computer skilled in the details and consequently have not learned the art of posting pictures and some of the other things I have long wished I had time to learn but haven't. Thanks again Deus, for taking and posting the pictures- all in all it was a community effort.
Artbuc- the connectors are 3M 90 degree taps that you should be able to obtain a lot of places. Any good electronic store would have them as well as any GOOD automotive supply store. That's the real deal, am not sure about Autozone and the like. We are fortunate in this area to have a couple of EXCELLENT electronic stores. (Adult candy stores) :lol: You use a male blade connector on the end of the actuator wires. This type of stuff is very readily available on the net if you don't feel like hunting locally for it. I use that type of connector when it's in a dry area and not too heavy a load (though I believe they are rated for a minimum of 10A and maybe 15A), because they are so easy to use. I used them sparingly when doing Code3 work. The black stuff is "Magic". It's actually "butyl tape", the same stuff that the edge of your inside door weather shield is attached with. You generally buy it at an automotive paint store (body shop supply) ands it has a million uses. I couldn't get along without it. If anyone is ever interested in using it though, PM me and I'll give you some tips you'll thank me for.
[/quote]

Roger, I would appreciate any tips you can provide. I've ordered the lock actuator kit and hope to have it this weekend, so am curious about the taps, the butyl tape and the connector rod used to secure the actuator to the door panel.

Thanks!
Kevin

#159 code58

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 01:34 AM

Roger, I would appreciate any tips you can provide. I've ordered the lock actuator kit and hope to have it this weekend, so am curious about the taps, the butyl tape and the connector rod used to secure the actuator to the door panel.




Kevin, I'll try to PM you with the details before the weekend

#160 leonid

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Posted 23 October 2010 - 12:29 AM

Guys You are just terrific.
The detailed information you have provided allowed my mechanic to repeat what you have done to fix RX300 Door actuators on both front doors.
I bought 2 actuators for $5 shipped and it works terrificly well.(unike link from this forum)
If somebody is not mechanically inclined and wants a mechanic trained by this list in LA area let me know

Thanks again for your time and efforts to make this terrifically cost effective repair possible.

Leonid

Hermosa Beach, CA

#161 sbsean

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Posted 30 October 2010 - 06:22 AM

I own a 2001 RX300 and the actuators for both front doors failed over a year ago. I preferred to spend $1300 on more important things such as my mortgage than my car repair.

My question to anyone reading this:

Does anyone know someone in the central Florida region who may be able to perform this repair for me? I will pay them for their time of course. Any help is very much appreciated!

Sean
ebayseanorl@gmail.com

#162 Homewood9

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 11:05 PM

I had a common problem with my right rear door actuator. It kept getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on Lexus actuator on ebay and came up with an inexpensive universal actuator which you will see below in the installation instructions.


When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided
I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place.

1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever.

2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise.

3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached.

4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole.

5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way
you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window)
thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel.

6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole.

7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door.

8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks)


It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi



#163 Homewood9

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Posted 09 November 2010 - 06:50 PM

Hi Indi,

Would you kindly send me the web site to buy Door lock actuator? Thank you very much.

#164 fab4fan64

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Posted 19 December 2010 - 07:48 PM

Thanks for the information on this. I have a 2003 RX300 and I did order the actuator from Ebay. This is my second attempt after I tried replacing the RC motor. This did not work for me, but I think I have the fix now. My only question is how to splice the blue and green wire from the new actuator to the car. Where is this information?

Thanks all.

Dave

#165 lostpark

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Posted 15 January 2011 - 11:43 PM

I had a common problem with my right rear door actuator. It kept getting weaker and weaker slowing down and eventually not working at all. I did a search on Lexus actuator on ebay and came up with an inexpensive universal actuator which you will see below in the installation instructions.


When I opened up the panel in the door it seemed to be near impossible to install this new actuator in any way. After dinking around trying this or that. I decided
I would attach the actuator rod to the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator to try and make the new actuator work. This requires leaving the old non functioning actuator and parts in place.

1. Drill a hole the same diameter as the new actuator rod in the wider part of the manual locking cam lever on the old actuator right next to the where the manual locking wire hooks up to the old actuator cam lever.

2. Cut the new actuator rod to fit your application. Bend the new actuator rod end the same way the manual locking wire is bent. Grind the rod end a little thinner as it is tight under the locking cam lever and it will rub on the housing otherwise.

3. Have the new actuator attached at the other end of the rod first. Attach the rod through the hole you made in the cam lever the same way as the manual locking wire is attached.

4. Reinstall the entire door locking mechanism back in the door leaving the actuator hanging out the access hole.

5. Attach the mounting strap to the new actuator using 2 long bolts place 2 spacers or multiple washers between the strap and the actuator this way
you can put the actuator just inside the access hole in the door (spacing it carefully not to interfere with the power window)
thus allowing you to screw the strap to the outer door panel.

6. You will need to cut a little of the white thin plastic protector shroud on the old actuator to make good clearance for the new actuator rod coming out through the door access hole.

7. Adjust the new actuator for locking and unlocking slack before fastening the mounting strap with screws to the door.

8. Splice the 2 new wires into the 2 larger wires coming off the old actuator (splice them in don't cut the old wires) (You may have to reverse the wires (before soldering or crimping) to make sure you have them unlocking & locking in sequence with the rest of the door locks)


It actually works better than the original with shipping it costs less than 15.00 for the parts. I used lock washers on the bolts. It would probably be good to use locktight on all screws. I have no pictures, but If you read this carefully you know it can be done and is not very difficult. I haven't tried this on the front doors yet, but will eventually have to. I hope it goes as well for me... At least it wors for the back doors. Good Luck to you!... Indi



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