curiousB

Well something is drawing too much current. So it points to something that worked before but now somehow is drawing more current. I doubt the rear defrost as that is a resistor in essence. If it were to get scratched it would become higher resistance and lower current. To isolate the blower from other AC stuck how about run the car on high heat and fan full speed. If it blows then it seem to point to blower motor. Maybe bearings starting to seize up, dirty cabin filter restricting blower, or something binding on the blower wheel. These would cause the current to rise on the blower motor and possibly blow fuse. If it only occurs on AC it could be the compressor clutch which is a solenoid. If it has overheated and the windings got burnt then it could be lower resistance and drawing more current.

It could be the seat motor is starting to seize up causing a larger current draw than normal. Has the seat motor fuse popped recently? Was it replaced with too large a fuse? Is behavior the same with or without engine running? If so then I suspect the motor may need some clean and lube. Hard to see it being battery terminals as starter motor draws 100x what seat motor draws so if terminal restricting seat motor car wouldn't even start. They should be checked anyway for clean and snug.

This has come up a few times just search the forum and you'll find detailed instructions on how to fix this.

I have the same car. Bought it new 12/03. I’m interested in the DVD question too as I have never upgraded but now the map is a little dated and I plan to keep car a while. I get high beams flickered at me from (irate) oncoming drivers occasionally. The HID is extremely blue/white light and very bright. The turning feature only works when you’re moving so you can’t test it standstill. It is nice on a dark road but I agree a bit gimmicky. I had to fix my auto level a few months back because the rear axle height sensor seized up. Failure mode was lights pointed very low and didn’t illuminate much of road. Was kind of dangerous. I haven’t been able to transfer more than one contact. I’ve had several phones since getting the car but mostly all Motorola and on Verizon. I did hear that Verizon locks some features on your phone to force you to do file sharing over their costly network instead of peer to peer. Never been able to confirm this but it would be a total surprise. I know of others with same car on other networks could squirt their entire phone book quite easily.

Regarding OP for increased MPG. I was reading about O2 sensors (pretty good article here: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/framed.htm?p.../o2sensor.html) Anyway they go on to say: “The (O2) sensor does not begin to generate it's full output until it reaches about 600 degrees F. … It (the ECU) remains in open loop operation, and uses all sensors except the O2 to determine fuel delivery. Any time an engine is operated in open loop, it runs somewhat rich and makes more exhaust emissions. This translates into lost power, poor fuel economy and air pollution. … If you have a defective thermostat, this (O2 sensor) test may not be possible due to a minimum temperature required for closed loop operation…..” So a car running too cool due to a stuck open thermostat can lead to poor fuel economy. Properly working O2 sensor and thermostat need to be check list items for good MPG.

Did you have a different Bluetooth phone before iPhone and did it do the same thing? If not maybe borrow a family member or friends phone to see if the problem is with any phone. That way you know if it’s an across the board issue or just something subtle with iPhone. If it’s just an iPhone issue then maybe Apple has a software patch available to fix this. In that case it would suspect just some aspect of the call set up (via Bluetooth) handshaking is incorrect. The problem with these types of defects is each party claims it’s the other guys defect and the user gets stuck in the middle. I would be sure to call in to Apple so they log some type of problem report. Once they get enough they’ll prioritize a fix. Same goes for Lexus.

How can we improve MPGs? I think Obama was quoted as saying Americans need to check their tire inflation. How about a tire gauge to every taxpayer in the country?

No way. You're just reaching the point of ownership where these cars are a bargain. They are expensive to buy but they last forever. Total cost of ownership over the life cycle of the car is very reasonable. Sure you'll have some repairs but 200-300k miles is not a unrealistic.

I personally think it’s more important to change your oil at 5k mile intervals than what you use (well don’t buy an off brand no name oil). I've never tried the synthetics but I have to say it does sound impressive and I am tempted to give them a go. The one issue in my mind is that as cars age and “loosen up” you get more cylinder “blow by” and this contaminates the oil faster. So while synthetic may be a better lubricant that contamination still goes on. Most of these synthetics come with special filters so maybe they’ve figured it all out. I’m not an expert on synthetics but there are some people here more up on them than I. Either way 160k miles isn't much for these cars. You have many oil changes ahead of you.

that all is not always as it seems, a component can experience a partial failure, and not every sensor related issue will throw a code. Are we in agreement on at least those points? To me comparing an electromechanical component to a passive electrical component is a very big canyon to cross. One moves and has wear elements the other just sits there and conducts electricity. Both are subject to potential failure but the electromechanical one is probably >1000x more likely to fail. So that is the basis for discounting the comparison. Let’s just agree to disagree on the sensor coating theory. My case wouldn’t change much if it had 1/8” of gunk on it. All that an insulating coating will do is delay the time it takes the sensor to get to the proper reading. Given the sensor is immersed in a liquid (rather than air) that makes a major difference to the thermal transfer. The thermal mass of the engine block and coolant pool as I said before is a huge heat sink that resists rapid temperature changes. As a result a little time lag on the sensor won’t matter. The only important job for the coolant sensor is to return a resistive value for a given temperature and do this with repeatability (i.e. the same value for the same temp each time). A failed coolant sensor fails to an open circuit. This is how resistors generally fail in circuits. Active devices like transistors on the other hand fail to a short circuit as the junction welds itself together upon failure. So a failed coolant sensor will be an open circuit and will be easily detected by the ECU. The possibility of an intermittent failure is there but it is more likely a corroded connector than the sensor element per say. Either way an intermittent will be an open and the ECU should detect that as well. The only other possibility is if the sensor resistance vs. temperature curve “ages” over time. I don’t believe this is true due to the composition of these devices but this is why I suggest we measure units replaced. Oldskewl just measured his and he concluded it is still working. Just trying to get to the truth so people don’t start popping in new coolant sensors like they were changing an oil filter. I just don’t see them as a wear item. A potential failing item (and ECU detectable) but not wear.

Are you sure the engine is 200-300 RPM? The cars tach may be giving a false reading? That would be a very rough engine at that low of an RPM. If that truly is proper RPM reading then I would start by checking for dirty throttle body which could be causing air leakage across throttle plate. Also a sticky or gummed up IACV could also impede this. The trouble I have here is if the ECU sees the engine running this low it will control the IACV to open more to speed up the engine. Is the IACV stuck/sticky? Can you take it out, clean and lube it and give it a retry? Vacuum leaks could also cause problems as the engine get more air but the airmass sensor doesn’t see this air consumption.

Just searching for the truth. Certainly no personal agenda here. A lot more people read these posts than chime in so we owe it to the entire community to be rigorous of ourselves. I think the most compelling point is that some such as jcrome have only changed sensor and seen presumably immediate results to MPG. That assumes they did nothing else. No new “super slippery” oil, new tires, higher tire inflation, warmer drier days, or they took a mostly downhill trip from a mountaintop (I think jcrome can see the Cascades) ;) . If this is truly an A vs B test where all else was held constant then there is some merit here. As for the coating of the sensor I don’t think this theory is terribly compelling. The insulation properties of a few microns of deposit wouldn’t change the thermal mass of the probe significantly. From a thermal modeling point of view the fact that the probe is inserted in a fluid that is circulated and represents a much larger thermal mass would mean the probe sees the true liquid temperature without any meaningful lag. In any event this isn’t a rapidly changing temperature environment (total thermal mass of engine block and coolant system is very large so won’t jump around too quickly) which makes temperature tracking easier. I’m quite sure the probe sees the liquid temperature. There may be a case that it’s resistance vs. temp curve changes over time but this is only conjecture. I don’t know how the ECU factors engine temp into its computations. I would suspect O2, throttle position, RPMs, air temp, and air mass sensors are far more important inputs to the fuel air algorithms in the ECU. In general I think the ECUs try to minimize the gas metered to the engine as long as the RPMs are maintained at a given throttle position. Perhaps the sensor comes into importance at start up to send a richer mixture and higher idle speed until warmed up but this would be immaterial in a tank full of gas MPG test. The GM throttle position sensor is also not a perfect example. Such a wear problem is common for position sensors as they have moving components. The only way to avoid this wear is to go to all optical sensors and they generally cost more. So position sensors based on potentiometers (variable resistor) are indeed wear items (I had to change my LS430 rear axle ride height sensor for this reason). I think a little more effort by GM in their ECU software and they could trap an error for erratic readings but they must not see the cost benefit of the additional software being worth it. In the old days radios used potentiometers for the volume controls (it’s all electronic now). Ever recall turning the volume and hearing a crackling noise in the speaker? This is a dirty or worn out potentiometer. I think the only way to either validate or disprove the temp sensor is to measure one that was taken out. See if it still a sound resistor (i.e. didn’t fail into a short or open circuit) and then check a few values at different temps to see if it has drifted off the R vs T curve designed for it. This is why I asked if there was a procedure, much like throwing the “old thermostat on the stove in boiling water with a thermometer” test. That way you can have some certainty that the part you are buying is going to fix something. I looked at www.parts.com and see there sensors are closer to $50 and once you add in shipping maybe $55-60. So to me I think I’d run a quick test on the stove.

Any auto parts store should carry it. Found with all the spray (specialty) lubricants.

Guys this sensor change for the heck of it sounds like junk science. SRK stated that if they fail it tends to be a hard failure where the ECU detects it. To just change as if its a wear item like spark plugs, tires, or a timing belt seems unfounded. Has anyone replaced a temp sensor, where the ECU didn't "throw a code" and measured the sensor over temperature to see if it has drifted well off spec? Without doing that it seems little more than guessing. A thermistor is not a very complicated electronic component. How often have you changed the thermostat on your water heater, oven, or furnace? I agree its not very expensive (someone said $20) but maybe a new air filter would be better for mileage than changing a sensor that may not be faulty.

Sounds like broken wire in door hinge. Not sure wiring but if the windows, light, and lock share a common ground wire back through the door hinge this could explain why lights, lock, and light all fail together. Might have to open up door panel to check. Here’s a suggestion, remove bezel from door courtesy light and see if you can determine which pin of bulb is ground and use that point to temporarily feed a ground line to the door circuits to check out broken door wire hinge theory. Easier than dismantling entire door. Another idea is to wiggle wire harness in door and look at courtesy light. Does it flicker? A broken wire would likely be an intermittent and might show up by flexing harness some.

Is there a procedure to test the sensor rather than just switching it out? Is it just a thermistor (resistor that varies with temperature)? If so can you just measure it with DVM and a thermometer and then lookup on some table what the resistor should be? Maybe have to do it at a couple of temp levels to be sure (fully warmed engine, cold engine).

Well its not free but if you sign up for a 1 day membership to: https://techinfo.toyota.com You can download the manual from there. It’s not as simple as a single pdf, it's more like 1,843 files (437 folders and 128MB of data) each as a separate download. It will take 2-3 hours and a fairly fast internet connection. Its organized as bite sized chunks of the service manual as they have some sort of web based indexing tool that works with it. I wasn't able to figure out how to download that so it’s not quite as convenient as on line version but for $10 its a good deal. The diagrams and information is invaluable as its tailored to you exact car (vs generic info like a Chiltons). Maybe someone else has stiched together all these parts into a mega pdf but I haven't heard of it. That would be much simpler but possibly a copywrite violation.

I had a Honda many years ago where the fuel tank seams rusted and started to leak. Very slow leak at first but eventually accumulated on the garage floor. The paper on the floor suggestion would catch this one. I’d be careful about starting the car in a closed area if this is very strong odor. Vapors in the air if in high enough concentration could be flashover hazard.. not pretty.

Not sure about the others, but I have a moderate PS fluid leak... win the lotto, I might fix it. <_< I saw somewhere someone made up a shield to stop the PS fluid from leaking onto the alternator. If it’s tough to fund a PS replacement then you might as well avoid compounding your problems by having to replace the alternator too.

I owned a 2000 E320 and now have a 2004 LS430. The LS430 is far quicker in my mind. 6 cylinder 3.2L vs 8 cylinder 4.3L. I wasn't inot racing or other high speed activity so I'm maybe not the best judge. I don't think either of these are a good choise if flat out speed is important. They're both quite heavy luxury cars. I prefer the Lexus LS430 over the E320. I think Lexus is more reliable, better engineered and more reasonably priced for what you get.

Perhaps you would do well to read a bit about it. Won't cost you a nickel. Actually I have a read a bit about it. Here are some quotes from experts in the field. Doesn't seem to make a strong case for premium..... ..."Prejudice and preference aside, engineers, scientists and the federal government say there's little need for premium."... ...""I personally use regular even though my owner's manual says you'll get better performance with premium," says Lewis Gibbs, consulting engineer and 45-year veteran at Chevron oil company. He's chairman of Technical Committee 7 on Fuels, part of the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) Fuels & Lubricants Council. Gibbs knows gas."... ..."The main advantage of premium-grade gas is that it allows automakers to advertise a few more horsepower by designing and tuning engines to take advantage of premium's anti-knock properties. But auto engineers generally agree that if you use regular in a premium engine, the power loss is so slight, most drivers can't tell."... ...""I go back and forth, and I'm hard-pressed to notice" whether there's regular or premium in the tank, says Jeff Jetter, principal chemist at Honda Research and Development Americas. He drives an Acura designed for premium. Import brands, especially, use premium fuel to distinguish their upmarket models. Most Toyotas, for instance, are designed to run on regular or midgrade, while the automaker's Lexus luxury brand prefers (i.e. market positioning of brand rather than science) premium. Same with Honda and its Acura luxury line."... ..."Gasoline retailers and refiners like high-test because it's more profitable than regular-grade gas is. The retailer paid about 8 cents more for the premium you pay 20 cents more for"... ..."Today's engines use highly evolved versions of a device called a knock sensor to adjust settings automatically for low-octane gas. The engine control computers keep pushing to maximize performance on whatever grade of fuel is used."... ..."The only modern engines that should really need premium are those with superchargers, which force-feed fuel into the cylinders. "You're driving along and just &#33;Removed&#33; the gas and the knock sensor cannot sense the knock fast enough in some cases," because the supercharger boosts pressure so fast, says Bob Furey, chemist and fuels specialist at General Motors."... ..."Burning regular when the owner's manual specifies premium won't void the warranty, nor damage the engine, even the most finicky automakers say. "You're giving up perhaps just a little bit of performance that a customer wouldn't really even notice, it's so slight," says Furey."... ..."High-test does have a potential fuel economy benefit. It is slightly denser than lower-octane gas, meaning there's a little more energy in a gallon. But the small difference is hard to measure in real-world use, and that same density can contribute to undesirable buildup of waste products inside the engine."... ..."Guilt plays a part. Some people feel almost guilty, as if they are abusing their cars, when they don't burn premium, says gasoline retailer Jay Ricker, president of Ricker Oil of Anderson, Ind., which operates 28 stations. "They go all the way down to 87 (octane), but maybe every fourth tank they put in the good stuff.""...

Well you can save another 8% by just running regular fuel. Its typically $0.20 more per gallon for premium yet it doesn't offer any appreciable MPG improvement over regular. At $2.50/gal on regular and $2.70 for premium that is 8% cheaper and a bigger single impact than most of your improvements.

I'm not sure how wires "wear out". Maybe if they are in a door hinge and subject to continual flexing then they can break. In this thread these wires are stationary and not constantly moving. Connectors can get dirty and oxidize limiting a good connection (adding resistance). So I would look to junction points before I'd start changing out wiring harnesses. Clean bulb sockets, clean harness connector pairs and so on. Pick up a can of spray on contact cleaner.

With this....

I would soak the latch mechanism with spray on lubricant and see if that doesn't migrate to the sticky component. Thats how I fixed our Ford. Spray'd the latch area and closed and opened the door several times. In my case the stuck mechanism was well away from the visible portion of the latch. The lubricant eventually worked its way to the proper area. Doesn't seem like much downside to trying it before you start a disassembly or dealer service call.