cmasten

interesting, the switch next to it is the Tire Pressure reset switch, but I even pulled out the service manuals and cant find anything that references this knob. I am now curious also

mine can be just applying the brake and still stationary in the garage, so I dont think its the pads needing some grease, but it may be Zonk's issue. What I hear is more like the clicking of an electrical switch, I can look this up in the service manuals I have this weekend in the troubleshooting section and see if anything pops out. Brakes seem perfect, its just a new noise I was not used to as its a new vehicle for me. The front brakes were just replaced and the rotors by the dealership as part of the CPO.

mine does this also, it sounds like electronic releases or other on the brakes. Do you have the parking brake set to Auto and do you use the Hold feature, just curious The click occurs with or without the HOLD activated. I only rarely use the parking brake that does not seem to matter. sounds the same as mine, and its some kind of electronic mechanism they use that is just noisy. I dont see folks jumping into this thread as a concern so maybe its working for us as designed.

mine does this also, it sounds like electronic releases or other on the brakes. Do you have the parking brake set to Auto and do you use the Hold feature, just curious

The only thing I can think of is they cranked this down so tight the threads or housing is now damaged. You could either live with cranking it on there at 100lbs or purchase a new filter cap and see if that made a difference.

ok so the wheel well tube is the drainage for the base of the front windshield. The AC tube on mine is hard to get too, its closer to the driver than passenger and its way up on the firewall and not reachable from on top, underneath, there are lots of panels and such that block access as well. I have not had to use mine much as its been just warm and dry here in So Cal, but yesterday at the dealership I left the front doors open and the AC running and the water was pouring out from underneath, as it was a more humid day. I am guessing you will need to stop by your dealer and ask them to just clean out the drain tube, I would think it should be simpler if they can get it up on a hoist. I'm a new on this site. I have a 2006 Lexus GS300. I'm having the same problem stated in here - a bad water leak on the front passenger floor board. It gets so bad you can hear the water squishing around when I stop. Where is this evaporator hose? How do I get to it to clear it out? Can anyone post some photos on how to do it yourself? Or instructions on how to fix this problem yourself? Thanks. You would have to be able to get the car up off the ground to get at it, its up higher on the firewall closer to the driver side. Mine seems to be working just fine, but if your hearing the sloshing I would see if you could get at it and hit it with some compressed air to push the blockage out of the way. If you cant then just take it to the dealer or repair shop the cost would be minimal compared to the cost of the damage and mold etc that you will get by letting this go any further.

ok so the wheel well tube is the drainage for the base of the front windshield. The AC tube on mine is hard to get too, its closer to the driver than passenger and its way up on the firewall and not reachable from on top, underneath, there are lots of panels and such that block access as well. I have not had to use mine much as its been just warm and dry here in So Cal, but yesterday at the dealership I left the front doors open and the AC running and the water was pouring out from underneath, as it was a more humid day. I am guessing you will need to stop by your dealer and ask them to just clean out the drain tube, I would think it should be simpler if they can get it up on a hoist.

Thank you. I didn't realize that I could check each cell on this battery. Thought it was a "maintenance free" type. Sure enough, all the cells were low on electrolyte. Checking the specific gravity, one cell was at 25%, and two more at 50%. Added a total of about 1/3 gallon of distilled water across all six cells. Battery is on the charger now. I suspect that will take care of this issue. good to hear, I have made it a habit of checking my battery levels about every 3 months, when I do a good detail on the car and the motor compartment its a good time to check stuff like that and will keep you out of trouble if you consistently check it.

should be about 14.4v with the engine running, if its 10v after a drain of just 20 min, I would say you may have a bad cell. How old is the battery? For a point of reference I have used my GS300 with a fresh battery installed within the last year for over an hour with the acc on and no issues at all. most of the lights in a Lexus will shut themselves off after a certain number of minutes to help prevent a dead battery. If you have the audio system really cranking then.. it is possible to drain it down rather quickly, but 20 min is still too low.

I believe the drain tube is just hanging down inside the right front wheel well. Turn your tires to the right all the way and you will easily access the tube, I just blew mine out with a bit of compressed air and that seemed to do the trick. I have an 06 GS300 for the record

I have an 05 and friends with an 02 and an 06. They are all bulletproof from what I can tell, these are just made like tanks.. $20,000 is a lot.. you could invest that and just save up for the newest model when that comes out. For only 5000 miles a year, im sure it will be mostly top down and fun in the sun driving.. we sure like ours. If your going to keep it a long time then the CPO would be the way to go, but this body style is due for a change, its been out a long time. If you wrap all your cash into a new one and then decide to change in say a year of two, there is another 20k you will have to come up with .

you mention the work done and that its sporadic.. but no specific symptoms other than in the title, "sound like it flooding or stalling on startup". When it does start does it clear out and then run normal?

something is out of balance or tune.. my CPO has 60k miles on it and in N, D or anything in between its hard to tell the engine is even running. I would take it to a Lexus dealer and have them look it over. How many miles on yours? Motor Mounts perhaps?

Moi, Take a look at iPod integration kit installation guide. That contains step by step instructions on what panels to remove, how to handle passenger side knee air bag and how to remove glove box. I did that when i installed iPod adapter kit (had to drill a hole for iPod cable to the glove box). You should be able to get the PDF at least from http://www.sewellpartsonline.com/import/pdf/iPod_LexB.pdf In general, these accessory installation guides like the iPod kit guide contain a lot of info on how to disassemble/assemble your is250. I've found them very useful and they are available for free (haven't found too many shop manuals for free). Very helpful advice, thank you! Is the nylon pry tool or the nylon trim removal tool anything special? If so, where can I get one? I am looking over their site to download a similar guide for a 2006 Lexus GS300. Whats the secret to getting to that page? The IS seems similar, but I have the ML and Navi so there are differences IM sure. I need to see whats involved in taking out the glove box to repair the Damper Door I broke when changing out the air filter... IF I can.. Thanks

I bought mine at Pep Boys, looked exactly like the factory one I took out.. for 12.00, they always have them in stock at my store here in So Cal so easy enough to get locally.. I only use the net if I buy in bulk

Drop the Engine Under Cover and you access it from underneath and from the back side. The bulb just has a half twist and pulls straight out.

you have the parking brake on?

I just got the CD service manual to see all the parts that go into the glove box and taking it out.. ok now I can see why its so expensive you have to rip a whole lot of stuff out... I was able to take the lower panel off just below the passenger knee airbag and ... out falls the lever that moves the recir air damper door open and shut.. and it broke off at the damper part so... no replacing just this smaller part... talk about a crappy design... as it turns out the damper door is used a lot as the system needs to adjust it between fresh and recirc air. I was hoping it was s simple fix, but from the directions on how to replace it.. Ill leave it alone. In fact I dont even want the dealer taking this car apart to fix just this.. Ill live with fresh filtered air I guess and can always just leave the small panel for the filter access out and quickly just flip the damper door in the glove box to recir if I absolutely need to. The glove box is a nightmare to remove in the 06 and up GS..

ok that seemed like the logical explanation as setting that flipped it up in the first place. I guess I can live without Recirc in So Cal for 1600.000 Thanks for the input CMasten I think I have this figured out. The damper door that breaks when the cabin filter is replaced without the "procedure" being done correctly (hitting recirc and shutting the car off to open this damper door) seems to only be used when I use the "smog" filter feature.. The one that filters out the internal car air for about 3min and then goes into auto. If there are any Lexus mechanics up here maybe you can validate this for me. I am not sure if this is the same on all models, I have a 06 GS. But when I take the access door off in the glove box, to get to the filter and then adjust for Fresh, Recirc and Smog, its clear that the filter isnt even used in Recirc mode, it seems to pull the air in from the floors or elsewhere in the dash and only in freshl air and smog mode does it pull through the ac cabin filter. In my case I have been wondering if getting this fixed was necessary.. based on what I have tested and seen I dont think so.. I dont use the smog feature and I live in LA... if the filter is engaged for fresh and that is 99.9% of what I use then its filtered anyways. I hope my assumption is right.. I dont want to spend a small fortune on fixing this. CMasten

when was the last time your replaced the ac cabin filter?

ok that seemed like the logical explanation as setting that flipped it up in the first place. I guess I can live without Recirc in So Cal for 1600.000 Thanks for the input CMasten

The recir have to be in a certain position when you change the HVAC filter, It states that in the manual. Many owners have replace the HVAC filter without setting the recir mode to the proper position which will result in breaking the recire damper. I last tome I check, to fix that recir damper was a $1600 job if you go to the dealer. understood, I guess my question was really, so what doesn't work when the damper is broken? I have yet to find a definitive explination... it all seems to work just perfectly.. but then I have not compared it to one with a non-broken damper. All of the settings seemto work, the air is forced just fine the outside air comes in fine, seems to shut off the outside air and recirc when I set it to that, heat, ac all seems to be perfect, but that damper door doesn't do anything.. is it just for the air purification setting or something? Thanks for input CMasten

curious, is this to fix the damper door that may have been broken, changing out the cabin filter? I just picked up a CPO and my damper door seems to rotate freely back and forth, it does not change positions when I set the recirculate switch and turn the car off and then open the cabin filter door.. its easy enough to replace the filter and just move it back to the closed position, but does anyone know what it does or impacts and how is it repaired if it is an issue. The AC and all the vents and features seem to work just fine.. but then I bough it that way so dont know any different. Guess I could compare to a new vehicle.