marylandjd

my apologies for not answering sooner.i didn't realize that you responded.yes,i want to reduce the camber to eliminate inside tire wear.

I would like to reduce or eliminate the negative rear camber on an ls460l.The camber is supposedly not adjustable.However,when i was reviewing the repair manual,i did find a section that addressed replacing the rear suspension arm attachment with one of three different bolts.Has anyone tried changing the bolts to alter the camber settings?

The 38010 filter was replaced by the yzza5.

Where did you find the instructions?I looked thrugh the owners manual,but couldn't find a thing. tx

Never mind, I've got it now.

I took my ls460 to Lexus of Chantilly(Pohanka) to have the fuel rails replaced as part of the Lexus recall.After being there for a day,I called back and was told the check engine light was on and needed to be repaired.I subsequently found out a day or so later that the mechanic had dropped a bolt into the cyclinder and took it for test drive after buttoning it up.I called the service manager who told me that the engine had to be replaced---broken rod and valve/cyclinder damage-- and that it would take 10 working days to complete.Eventually,the short block ,one cyclinder head,and 4 valves were replaced.They returned the car ten days later,as promised.Two days later,i was on my way to the golf couse when the fuel line detached from the engine causing fuel to spray the underside of the car and onto the street.The car was towed back to the dealer for repair.It was returned a day later.No problems since.I was not happy with their fix as I understood that the complete engine would be replaced and not just the damaged parts .I won't be going back there for any service.Nice people,but incompetant.

I have a 2007 LS460 with 42K miles. After the dealear changed my oil at 5K and 10K, I decided to do my own because of their sloppy work - they would leave oil smeared on the engine cover around the filler cap. Like you, at the 15K interval, I found that removing the filter housing took a hell of a lot of torque - Nothing like a professional doing the job and charging you $149. Ever since, I have been changing the oil every 5k and have not had any leaks. You have to make sure that o-ring stays in the housing grove when you tighten the housing. It is the o-ring that creates the seal and keeps the oil from leaking. I use a toyota filter ($10.42 at the Lexus dealer) and Mobil 1 0W-20 oil. Tourqing the oil canister to 100 ft-lbs is living dangerously - I torque my at around 30. Thanks for confirming that the filter will not leak if the housing is torqued to 30 ft-lbs.After i discovered the original leak,I removed the filter and housing at least three times in an attempt to ascertain what the problem was.I even changed the o ring all to no avail.Each tme i removed the housing , repositioned the o ring ,and then started the car,i could see the o ring being blown out by the oil pressure,generally at the same point on the ring.After the third time,i began to believe that the service manual was wrong and more torque was needed so I tightened it to about the same torque that the dealer did.In hindsight, maybe Whitster was correct----cross threaded housing. Does your housing screw in freely without much torque required before tightening? Usually when you have cross threading there is a lot of resistance during the first few turns. What I have noticed is that you have to be very carefull with the first few turns to make sure you are not cross threading. My experience is that after about 3 or 4 rotations by hand, it gets pretty snug, and I have to use a wrench to complete the installtion before the final torque. I agree with the others, this is a poor setup, toyota could have easily used a regular screw on filter like they do with many of their other models - our 2005 camry has a regular screw on fillter under the engine that is so easy to change. The Lexus oil change takes more time than it should. Plus that housing does not look like it is verey durable and over time may be subject to cracking and thread stripping(especially when the Lexus dealers tend to over tighten them) As i recall ,i didn't encounter any unusual resistence when i was turning the housing .I first felt resistence when the o ring mated with the engine housing.I guess that's was why i was skeptical of any suggestion that the housing was cross threaded.If the housing wasn't cross threaded and the tightening torque was correct ,the only other thing i can think of that could cause the problen would be a distorted engine oil frame or oil housing frame..I'll be changing the oil in about two weeks.Unfortunately,i think the original housing was replaced when the short block and right cyclinder head had to be replaced after the mechanic at the lexus dealership dropped a bolt into the cyclinder and then took it out for a test drive.Now ,at least,i know that 30 ft-lbs of torque is correct.Thanks for your thoughts.

I have a 2007 LS460 with 42K miles. After the dealear changed my oil at 5K and 10K, I decided to do my own because of their sloppy work - they would leave oil smeared on the engine cover around the filler cap. Like you, at the 15K interval, I found that removing the filter housing took a hell of a lot of torque - Nothing like a professional doing the job and charging you $149. Ever since, I have been changing the oil every 5k and have not had any leaks. You have to make sure that o-ring stays in the housing grove when you tighten the housing. It is the o-ring that creates the seal and keeps the oil from leaking. I use a toyota filter ($10.42 at the Lexus dealer) and Mobil 1 0W-20 oil. Tourqing the oil canister to 100 ft-lbs is living dangerously - I torque my at around 30. Thanks for confirming that the filter will not leak if the housing is torqued to 30 ft-lbs.After i discovered the original leak,I removed the filter and housing at least three times in an attempt to ascertain what the problem was.I even changed the o ring all to no avail.Each tme i removed the housing , repositioned the o ring ,and then started the car,i could see the o ring being blown out by the oil pressure,generally at the same point on the ring.After the third time,i began to believe that the service manual was wrong and more torque was needed so I tightened it to about the same torque that the dealer did.In hindsight, maybe Whitster was correct----cross threaded housing.

The brakes on an ls460 have a wear pad sensor that triggers a warning light when the pads should be replaced.I can't find any mention of the light in the owners manual.Does anyone know which light it is? tx

I noticed that you own a 460ls.Have you changed the filter and verified that the 30 ft-lbs torque spec is sufficient to keep it from leaking?I don't believe the housing is cross threaded.I watched the oil seal,and the mating surfaces on the housing and the engine and thought maybe the engine housing might be warped a hair,thereby causing the problem.i didn't have time to fully investigate the problem.By the way,I love your avatar.I hope you realize that if the obama team sees it,you will be branded a rt.wing radical,or possibly even a neo-!Removed! , and will not rexceive your stimulus check until the banks are fully satisfied and the wall street executive bonus' have been paid.

i recently decided to change the filter in the ls460l.I purchased the toyota tool to unscrew the housing.The service manual says that the tightening torque is about 30 ft-lbs.When I attemted to remove the housing,i needed a two foot breaker bar to turn it--probable closer to 100 ft.lbs.My first thought was that the lexus dealer had a rookie doing the work and he overtorqued it.I proceeded to replace the filter and torqued the housing to 30 ft-lbs.Within two days it began to leak.I removed the housing and replaced the o ring. and tightened it to spec.It continued to leak.i finally torqued it to 100 and it's been fine ever sense.Has any one had a similar experience.?

The recommended tire size for 19in.rims is 245/45R19,which is only .43 in.larger than the diameter of the tires that are on the 18 in rims(235/50R18).it is difficult to believe that small difference could cause body damage.I went back and reread the notice on the door jamb.it also recommends against going from a 19in. rim to an 18 in. rim for the same reason.

I did some additional research and discovered that 19 in.rims were not an option on vehicles with a standard suspension system.They were only an option for vehicles with the optional adjustable suspension system.My vehicle has the std.suspension system,hence the warning.I guess if the rear bottomed out, the wheel could contact the body and cause some damage.

There's a "Notice"on the door jam that replacing 18 in. rims with 19in rims can result in damage to the vehicle(07- 460lsl).can your comments be reconciled with this warning.i too would like to go to 19 in. rims ,but am somewhat reluctant to do so after reading the warning. tx