1992LexusSC400

You can simply unscrew, replace with new one, and then screw it back in. Thats it.

I failed to mention that if you are determined to replace those balljoints, you can replace them completely with a 93-97 Supra LCA. I believe they fit perfect. The Supra and the SC share alot of under carriage parts. The problem lies that those balljoints are made in with the LCA. You can burn them out and install new ones or you can completely replace the whole arm.

This is what I did and man what a difference. Heres the info... Hope this helps you out... Sorry for the long post, but it has great detail and information.... After this conversion was done, I replaced the fog lights with some 65 watt ones....They are bright with the help of the 9006 Slyvania bright lights for the headlights.. Its the 50% more light thats wrote on the box, not the 25-40% ones. This modification is specifically for the 1992-1994 SC coupes, which came with cornering lamps instead of foglamps. Foglamps were introduced on 1995 production cars. Since it is an installation procedure for a basic automotive relay, you can use the same instruction applied to other electrical circuits on the car (DRLs, extra foglights, etc). Please do note that the 92-94 cornering lamp assembly is different from the 95-96 and 97-00 fog lamp assemblies. Though the 92-94 looks a lot like the 95-96, you can not interchange them between bumpers because of subtle shape and dimensional differences. The 92-94 lamps run on 15w bulbs whereas the 95+ run on 55w H3 bulbs so the illumination on the road is not the same. The 95+ fog lights are brighter, but the beam pattern is a bit wider on the 92-94 conversion. First you'll need to buy a few items: a 4 or 5-pin 30-amp automotive relay, an inline fuse holder, a 30-amp fuse, about 20-ft 12-awg wire, a box of t-taps (5 is all you'll need if you don't mess up), roll of electrical tape, and good solid connectors: either use solder or buy male-female disconnects. All of this stuff is available at Radio Shack and should cost you no more than $10-15. Now you need to get to know the relay. A relay is essentially a mechanical switching device that is activated by a low voltage input to activate a high voltage switch. In this application, your low current trigger will be tapped off the parking lights. Your high current output will be the power supplied to the auxiliary lights by the battery via the relay. The relay itself should be a 1-inch black plastic cube with 5 spades on one face, and some sort of mounting tab on another. The 5 spades are labelled something like 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a (at least these are Bosch's labelling). - 30 is your input voltage for the switched device. - 87a is an open circuit (no power). - 87 is a closed circuit that supplies the high current to your auxiliary lights. - 85 and 86 can be interchangeable, but they are the low voltage leads from your parking lights. You can choose either headlights, city/parking lights, or sidemarker lights as your signal trigger. I used the city lights because they were easiest to access, the relay can be switched with an input signal as low as 150mV, and in case anything went wrong, no big deal. Hopefully everyone here already knows that every DC electrical device requires two connections: a postive (live) and negative (ground). The darker/colored wire is always live (yes black is a color) and the lighter/white is always the ground wire. (in AC it's slightly different). I believe on our cars, the live is an off-red and the ground is white. STEP 1 Basically, your first connection is going to be two t-taps off the both cornering lights' positive wires. Now connect the two t-taps you just made with two runs of 12-awg wire, and lead both wires back to the battery pan. Twist the two wires together into one single wire and connect them to the 87 spade. The 87a spade will have no connection because it is the open switch. STEP 2 Lexus uses a switched ground system which presents a problem because your cornering lights aren't always grounded. So to resolve this issue, go back to the cornering lights and t-tap both of the negative (ground) wires. Run two lengths of 12-awg wire from these t-taps---the same way you just did with the positive wire---to the negative post on the car battery. Your circuit is now properly grounded. STEP 3 Next send a wire from the battery's negative post to the 85 spade. STEP 4 Now make another t-tap off of the positive wire from your chosen signal trigger (in my case the city light), usually the closest one is the best. Once you've established this t-tap, run another piece of 12-awg wire from the t-tap to 86 spade. STEP 5 Last is to establish the big power! You will connect the battery's 12v positive post to the 30 spade. BUT before you do that, use that inline fuse holder you bought. It will be a black, plastic, well... "fuse holder", with a looped wire running from one end to the other. Cut the loop into two bare ends. Connect one end to the 12v positive battery post, and connect the other end to the 30 spade on the relay. You may need to splice or crimp extra wire to make the run to the 30 space. It is critical that the fuse holder is very close to the battery. Like less than 12-inches of wire between them both. Make sure you weren't eager and stuck a fuse in that fuse-holder yet, because that would create a live circuit. STEP 6 Right now the relay system is completely wired up, but there is no fuse in the holder. Therefore no current is running through it so it is still safe. At this point, you'll want to check all connections from and to the relay and once you've determined all is secured and well, insulate it! You want to make the relay water and weatherproof. I did so by wrapping the entire thing in 6 layers of electrical tape. Feel free to use more if you want. Then tuck or mount the relay somewhere safe (IE somwhere away from water exposure and engine heat). I put mine next to the battery pan which remains relatively dry and cool. STEP 7 Now you can insert the 30-amp fuse you bought and test out the relay circuit. Turn the light wand in your car to activate the parking lights. Your cornering lights should turn on as well.

I have just done the same thing last week, but I did all the bushings, upper and lower, front and rear, along with the front and rear sway bar bushings, swar bar links, and struts with mounts. Unfortunaltely there is no ball joints for this car. They are for the LS400, but nothing for the SC's. Sorry! The good news is that you do not have to remove the lower control arms from your car. You can swing it around while being on the vehicle. This will keep you from taking the chance of breaking or damaging the lower ball joint. At least this is what I did. You have to burn those bushings out.. Very time consuming, but well worth the way the car rides afterwards. If you need any help, let us know!

Build a BFI!! That would be a start for you...

I came across this link in another forum, and wanted to share this idea with everyone on here. Does anyone know if this worked or had any problems? Better than the Dragon Torque Converter? Keep us posted.... http://www.lexusclub.co.uk/lsocautoboxmod.pdf

SC4sooner, I totally agree with the cats making the stange gas smell. I cleaned or gutted my front cats out. It makes a hollow sound now, but it runs a little better. I was just simply stating that the fuel filter that I got from Oreilys worked, without any problems. No stripped threads, or nothing that previous people were stating about.

SC4sooner, You can get a fuel filter from Oreilys, and yes you do need to change the fuel filter. This is where I got my filter from and it worked perfectly... No problems

I have tried this and no luck.. Anyone else had any luck or can add additional information on this? Thanks

Do you still have the A/C compressor? Its for a 1992 SC400... How much?

Do you have the A/C compressor for this car still? It work? Does it the 92 SC400?

The brake booster line is the black hose, close to the firewall, directly above the pcv in the youtube video. It has a bigger opening in it for a funnel. Thats the one that I use to seafoam, just make sure you tighten it back, either one you decide to use.

Dont forget to run a half of can of Seafoam through the brake booster line and follow the instructions on the can.. Might help with your problem, but it will improve the throttle response...Its the cheapest at Wal-Mart.

Everyone will charge you different on the replacement of the fuel filter. I think you can do it, if you have some basic tools and a jack. Even if you use the tire change jack on your car. I believe the threads are a 10mm or a 12mm size.. I would not take it to a Express Oil Change place and do it, thats my opinion, and from my experience. The ECU stands for Electronic Control Unit.. If I am not mistaking. About the cold start issue, it could be a cold start injector, but double check on that one. The blue smoke is usually a oil leak from internal. I dont know too much on that topic, but I know the 93-98 supras were bad about smoking on a cold start. I forgot exactly what that cause was, but I remember it was a problem for those cars. Lastly, could also be a fuel injector leaking for the slight smell of gas.. Does it dissipate after a few seconds, or a few miles while driving.. Sorry I couldnt help you any more..

First and foremost, you need to replace the fuel filter.. Its on the driver side behind the door , just before the rear tire. Just jack up the left rear side of the car and you will see it. Get a fuel filter from Autozone or Oreilys... Or the Stealership.. Be careful and DO NOT strip the brass couplings. Make sure you have a very good grip or ratchet when prying it loose and tightening it back up. You will need to disconnect the battery cable and let it sit for about 10 minutes, this will stop the fuel from running out the whole time you are trying to work with you under the car.. Some fuel will run out, this is normal.. If it keeps running out get a container to catch the remainder fuel in and reuse it... Try this first and see where you are at on the hesitation.. Lastly, run a can of Seafoam through the brake booster vaccuum line.. Does wonders.. Hopefully its not your fuel pump... Very uncommon in the SC400's. Might be you fuel ECU, but try the simple things first....

Always try the simple things first... Check for all vaccuum leaks first, then I would run a can of Seafoam through it. It wont hurt it, but it may help the rough or low idle a bit. I had the same problem and I adjusted the linkage on top of the throttle body or just simple tightenend it up to pull the idle up. Now its perfect.. Sitting dead on 600 rpm at idle in drive and 850 in park.. A little high in park but its smooth after the motor and trans mount replacement.

Went out today and tried the dent repair and had no luck... Tried both ways in the video but no luck.. My dents are more like creases and not big regular dents... Have to call the dent man next week.. Wanted to let everyone know. If something else seems to work let us know...

When the CEL is on, take it either to the Lexus Dealership, or to Oreily's, Autozone, etc.. and let them pull the codes... Then you can go from there... There is no other thing that I know to do but to disconnect the battery for 20 minutes and reconnect. This will reset your computer.. If there is a further problem, the CEL will come back on. You need to find the codes and then we can help you further... There are hundreds of things it could be. Sorry couldnt give you anymore help..

I wonder if the dent has to be big or bigger than a size of a nickel? I will try some out tomorrow and keep everyone posted on the outcome.

I came across this on the internet. Has anyone tried this before? Any luck and any damage? http://www.wisebread.com/remove-car-dents-...kly-and-cheaply

I have a 1992 SC400. I have noticed that the normal/power button is out on the panel by the shifter... I wanted to go ahead and change the heated seats lights, the original volume and climate knob, the Trac light, and normal/power button lighting while I had it all out. Does anyone know the part numbers from superbrightleds or any other website? Or simply a way to change the color of all of the lights? I wanted to change the color to blue, to match my climate control and dash lights that I had done from Lextech. Thanks...

Thanks for the link... This is why I love the forums..... Will order the washer seal tomorrow.... Thanks again...

I have a 1992 SC400 and I noticed the last two months or so, the rubber black cap on the radiator resevoir is leaking around the seal. I noticed wen I pryed it up it had 2 small wires going through it. Is this to let the cluster know when the coolant is low? Also is there a permanent cheap fix?