motoroil

Sweet! Thanks!

I need to replace my windshield washer fluid reservoir. ('93 ES300). Anyone know if a 92-93 V6 camry reservoir and pump are compatible? I ordered a coolant reservoir/overflow tank from a 92-93 camry and it fit perfect to replace my cracking/worn coolant overflow tank. So maybe the windshield fluid tank will fit too? It looks pretty similar, but I'm not sure. I don't have access to a camry to check it out--just going by the pics on ebay. Anyone know????

http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/1104629883.html Look at the pic of the es300 in the ad--nearly identical with the chrome grill and all! Lexucan, is this your car for sale here in Denver??????

I appreciate it CUMan, but unfortunately that wouldn't work on mine. My ES didn't come with the CD changer, and it also didn't come with the wiring from the trunk to the headunit b/c there was no CD changer. So I don't have anything I could hardwire. Unfortunately I don't have any "wires which carry the signal from your CD player to the radio system" I would still need the plug that goes into the back of the radio into the CD changer slot. Maybe I could find that at a junkyard. Then I could hardwire using that...but that would be hard to find. Curses!

I put an OEM stereo in my '93--and I'd like to wire up my ipod directly to it (no more tape adapter). With most cars, there's an easy way to do this. Most OEM stereos with an AUX input in the rear (for a cd changer) you can buy aftermarket compatibility cables that go into the rear of the stereo (where the CD changer cable plugged in) and plug into your ipod on the other end. Anything like that for our stereos out there? I can't find it yet. Another option is any cable that connects to the back of our stereo (where the CD changer cable plugged in) and has RCA's on the other end--then I can just use an RCA/ipod adapter. Basically looking for any cable that plugs into the back of our stereo unit (where the cd changer cable plugged in) that has any kind of universal audio at the other end (3.5mm jack, RCA jacks, ipod connector, etc...) and with that I can make it work. Ya'll know of anything in existence out there like that?

I put an OEM stereo in my '93--and I'd like to wire up my ipod directly to it (no more tape adapter). With most cars, there's an easy way to do this. Most OEM stereos with an AUX input in the rear (for a cd changer) you can buy aftermarket compatibility cables that go into the rear of the stereo (where the CD changer cable plugged in) and plug into your ipod on the other end. Anything like that for our stereos out there? I can't find it yet. Another option is any cable that connects to the back of our stereo (where the CD changer cable plugged in) and has RCA's on the other end--then I can just use an RCA/ipod adapter. Basically looking for any cable that plugs into the back of our stereo unit (where the cd changer cable plugged in) that has any kind of universal audio at the other end (3.5mm jack, RCA jacks, ipod connector, etc...) and with that I can make it work. Ya'll know of anything in existence out there like that?

Sorry to break it to ya, but there are no altezza style lights for it. There's some how to's on modding them yourself, but no aftermarket altezza/european style tails.

Bump... can anyone help me?

This is a common problem on our ES300s. There are some threads you'll find of folks trying different tactics. The sensor for current is real sensitive; so if you use most anything other than dealer bulbs the light will come on. Also, if there is any dirt in there or any corrosion on any of the wires. Most people can't get it to go away and learn to live with it. I yanked my instrument cluster and just removed the warning bulb altogether. Good luck!

This weekend I'm going to do drain and refill my transmission fluid, and I'm going to drop the pan, clean it, and replace the transmission filter while I'm in there because I doubt it has ever been done on my '93 with 115kmi. Other cars I've done this on, just drop the pan, and you can see the filter right there. Some cars have a strainer--so you have to remove the pan, then remove the strainer, then you can get to the filter. Which is the ES300 like? Should I plan on needing to remove a strainer? Also, I was gonna put in Mobil 1 synthetic ATF; it is compatible with our trannys. Any advice on that either?

Thanks!

Does anyone know off hand the fuel tank capacity in gallons? '93 ES300

If you found oil on them/spark plug tube seals are bad, then they probably are time bombs for failure. Good call!

I replaced both valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals (with OEM spark plug tube seals, a must), replaced the distributer inner o-ring, and let the oil pan gasket be for now. The oil pan gasket is a very slow seepage, about a tablespoon of oil a month. I also replaced a few other gaskets while in there, the cold start injector gasket and the inner gasket in the intake plenum that the cold start chamber uses, the PCV valve and grommet, and a few hoses. The real culprit was the rear valve cover gasket, that one was just spurting oil.

Okay I just ditched it all and installed an OEM stereo. Good sound.

I had several oil leaks on mine, valve covers, oil pan, distributer o-ring. The way I found mine is I drove to a pay car wash--the kind where you can wash your car with a spray gun, not an automatic car wash. I waited until the engine was warm, not hot. Then I used foaming degreaser on the engine spots where oil leaks are likely. Before doing so, its important to carefully seal up your electrical components with plastic baggies and tape. Let the degreaser sit in for a while. Then rinsed. Then repeated this process a few times. Then I added ultraviolet dye to the oil. Then I idled the motor for about 10 minutes to help everything dry off. Then drove for about a week, then checked over the motor with an ultraviolet light. Very easy then to see exactly where the oil leaks are coming from, as the motor is perfectly clean except for the oil leaks and you can confirm the leaks with the ultraviolet dye's green glow. This also works with power steering leaks, AC leaks, tranny leaks. Just make sure you buy the right type of dye designed to be compatible with the fluid you are adding it to. Good luck!

I wondered the same thing on my wife's grand cherokee. I say replace one. Thats what my mechanic told me. Spark plugs are designed to fail/be replaced, and are fairly cheap. Ignition coils are designed to be a lifelong component, never needing replacement. They are not wear n tear components, they only fail if something breaks in them. So, I'd leave em in since thats what they are designed for. Failing ignition coils should be an anomaly, not something that happens normally over time. My 2 cents.

Hmmmm.... the clips must be broken on mine then... shucks.

Hmmm..... I don't know how they come off, but I can tell you that mine actually comes off sometimes when driving on dirt or bumpy roads. I just place it back in place and it sort of loosely snaps in place. Comes on and off real easily on mine.

It depends on exactly which bulbs are bad. I've taken mine apart to fix the same way, and the bad bulbs on mine were soldered into the circuit board (the leads from each bulb were pushed through the circuit board and soldered that way). Those are not very serviceable. I picked up a working unit instead for about $40 with all working lights and just used that. If you haven't already, I would go ahead and dissemble the unit and see how the bulbs that are out are installed. If they are removable, go for it. If they are the type soldered into the circuit board, I personally would hold back at risk of damaging the circuit board. Either way, you can get the parts from Lexus for whichever you decide to do. Good Luck!

I've polished my headlights too. I used the Permatex kit you find at Advance, Pep Boys, etc.... bout $15. It includes the various grits of wet sandpaper and some polishing compound with a soft cloth for it. Worked great, headlights are clear as glass. Really the key is the wetsanding. From more coarse to less coarse. Only in one direction with each grit, never in circles. You can swap directions in between grits, but always in the same direction with each grit. So long as you wetsand, really any kit will work. The reason some do not work as well or last as long is because they are only polish kits. Polishing alone will help, but its the wetsanding that keeps the clearest look for the longest time.

^^^^^yes. Get the OEM tube gaskets at your toyota dealer as if for a camry. Aftermarket ones suck, and you'll probably scratch/dent your valve cover trying to hammer aftermarket ones in, OEM ones slip right in. I have a '93 and did the vcg job, not too bad, front is easy as cake, the rear is a bit more difficult as you have to remove a fair chunk of components to get to it, and its an awkward angle for installation, so be careful when reinstalling the vc with the new gasket, it likes to move on you b/c of the odd angle. Some put a dab of gasketmaker at the rear of the valve cover in the groove to keep the gasket in place on reinstallation. So long as you use only a tiny dab, it won't cause any problems or leaks later on. (normally you don't use gasket maker when replacing a rubber gasket except for where the service manual instructs).

I used to have a '95 Mazda MX3 that did that, never figured out how to fix it. Interestingly, on my MX3 the tailight fuse always blew also when you started the ignition, and the tailights would always work when braking, even with the blown fuse, but never unless I was braking. I even tried putting in a higher-rated fuse, which never blew, but the lights still only lit up when using the brakes. It'll drive ya nuts!

It varies per year. Mine is a '93, so it may be different for a '98. It may be listed in your owners manual--may not be--but worth checking. On my '93, you pull back the upholstery in the trunk behind the tail light. Then there are a series of screws that hold the tailight in place. Remove them all. Then pull the tailight backwards, off the car. You should be able to get it about 6 inches or so. Then unplug the wire pigtail and the whole tailight is removed! Then remove the bad bulb and replace with another by twisting the plastic cap/holster that holds the bulb. done!

Great! Thanks! And I can't wait to put in the needles and backlighting! :D