killerFatty

I bet it's your coolant temp. sensor. I was getting around 7-9 mpg when I first got my car, and once I replaced it, I am at normal mpg. If it's faulty it will cause your engine to stay in warm-up mode and richen the fuel mix. Thus causeing terrable mpg and poor performance.

This is really odd that I have the exact same problem as you, just not as bad. When I park my car in the sun for a while and go to start it it cranks for a solid five seconds before starting. Like you it cranks fine and runs great when started. I didn't know that the coolent temp. sensor could cause this until I read this, but come to think of it when I replaced my coolent temp. sensor a while ago I busted the clip on the litte connector, so I just plugged it in and left it without a clip. It is pretty secure and it has never come off the sensor, but it makes sense that the connection could be slightly ajar. I too have no CEL codes.

The coolant temp. sensor is located in the front, top, of the engine. To the left side of where the spark plug wires cross from side to side. I hope that helps some.

sparkplugs.com is the best place to get good plugs. Any iridium plug will work great. NGK and Denso both have great plugs. The OE double platinum Denso's are $6.89. The ones BillyDPowell is selling are OEM and at $6.86 each shipped they seem like your cheapest bet.

Bon Jovi

The lifters on the valves can be shimmed, but that is only neccessary when your valves are ticking or if for some reason you change out your camshafts. Just to adjust the valves runs about $1200 or at least thats what the previous owner of my car was quoted by a reputable shop five years ago.

My Throttle body is spotless, but I'll check everything for vaccum leaks. Whats the best way to clean a MAF sensor?? I definetly don't want to screw mine up.

The vaccum lines on my PS pump are blocked already. I don't believe I have any broken or damaged vaccum lines, but I shall check tonight.

Thanks

This is unlike any IACV or ignition coil problem I've seen. My car drives fine and dandy but when it's fully warmed up and I stop, weither it be at a traffic light or whatever, my idle drops to between 300-500 RPM. IT's still smooth and accelerates just fine. It has never died or had iradic surges up and down like an IACV would cause. It has been doing this for a while now, but I just got around to thinking about it while on LOC. Also one other thing, when my car has been parked in the sun all day, It take a good three or four seconds of cranking before starting, but then runs great. Normally on a cooler morning start, or if she is warmed up and I turn her off, it takes less than a second to start. This seems really weird to me so hopefully you guys have some insight.

My speakers minimum watts are 10 and my head unit is putting out 13 RMS so they should be alright, right? I did install some bass blockers on the speakers and they don't distort hardly at all anymore. I can really bump the volume now with good results, however I still think I want to get an amp for my speakers.

I really doubt that your transmission needs replacing. Most likely an selonoid or something relitivly small. Once you pull the codes post them back up and let us know.

just put in any oil you feel comfertable with. weither it is 0w-20 or 10w-40. I don't know why it would make any positive difference to run any straight weight versus a multiple viscosity oil. It makes it harder on the engine when cold. However to each their own and the most important thing is to run oil in your car. If you change it regularly with whatever oil you like you wont have any problems.

WOW that pretty pimpn' for someone with your... uhh wisdom. Ditch the rims and that is one awesome ride. You did well. BTW how much you looking to get for the '97 your now going to sell?

No I am running a Sony explode series head unit putting out about 14 watts per channel. Yes I just pryed off the speaker grills. I looked at the lexls tutorial for door pannel removal and sayed F*$& that. I do need four channels though right??

As for the base blockers. I do plan on getting some. Especially if I put in an amp because 5" speakers can in no way shape or form handle huge bass. Thats why I have my JL sub.

THX RDM you seam to be the go to audio guy. If I do use hot glue and I ever need to get the speakers out again what do I do. That was the only thing holding me back from hot glue. The spray adhesive I figured I could just break off, but I am not sure if that is true for hot glue.

The RMS rating on the speakers is 10-45 Watts, so my head unit is putting out just over the bare minimum. I am getting some serious bass destortion now that I had time to really crank it up, so I am planning on getting a set of 300Hz bass blockers. If I get an amp for them, how do I wire it in? I know to run power to it then do I just send the outputs from the head unit to it and run the outs from the amp back to the head unit? I assume I will need a 4-channel amp(1 channel per speaker) I was thinking around 40 Watt RMS X channel. That should boost the volume considerably right??

I just got brand new polk audio DB501 door speakers and put them in the front doors. The sound is much more clear, however they are significantly quieter than the originals. I love the new sound and the install was simple and easy. My only problem is the speaker grilles don't want to go back on. The factory clips are buster and spray on adhesive didn't work either. Should I try hot glue? Also to bring them back to, or surpase, the stock volume should I go ahead and install an amp just for the speakers? BTW what is the stock speaker size. I thought it was 4" but these speakers are 5" and fit perfect.

I got one. How much will you pay for it ??? It's off a '93 with working speedo or tach. I forget which one, but the needle are Identical. I was going to use them in my current cluster, but for the right price they are yours.

If noise is what you want to reduce an electric fan will NOT help. You will hear it running way more than the clutch fan. If your fan is making noise than try replaceing the clutch.

A new resivour from the dealer is about $250. I was lucky and found one in good condition on a parts car for $15. I imagine you could find that air filter piece on just about any parts car. That would be the first, and cheapest, place to look. A tip on the resivour: don't fill it up all the way to the lines. Leave a little extra room and the pressure will be lower. This slowed the leak in my old one before I could put the new one on.

Bad TV (Connen O'Brian)

I can't believe that lexus beat the lambo in a drag race. They have to be putting out more than 460HP to do that. Although they were getting annoying. Next season we definetly need a team LS. Barrow the twin turbo LS from lextreme and we will dominate.

Man those things must cost a fortune from the lexus dealer. How much are they? If all toyota (Lexus) 5 bolts wells are 5x114.3 (Which I didnt know) than you shouldn't have any problems.

WOW those look AWSOME!!! I think they would look sweet. The only thing is you can't change the bolt pattern. Sorry your best bet is to search for wheels that have your pattern first 114.3x5 I believe and then see how they look. No sense in falling in love with something you can't have.

mahogany

ACE hardware is always my first stop. My throttle body, T-stat, and air filter box are all held in with bolts purchased form ACE Hardware. The only fasteners I've had to get form the dealer were brake caliper bolts which I didn't exactly want to skimp on. I believe they were like $3.50 each, but only came in a bag of 5 so I had to buy them all.

wood

Jcrome your back!!! YEAH!!