killerFatty

So my tach is having some weird problems, but first some important info. The needle in the orginal tachometer broke when I was fixing the circut board some I glued it back together and it worked alright. Then finally the glue gave out and the needle fell apart inside the gauge cluster. So I took apart the cluster and swaped in the tachomoter from my other parts cluster and it worked great... for about two weeks. Then I noticed that it looked like my car was idleing at 200 rpm, which is near impossible. I looked over the engine and everything was fine and the car was idleing normally, just the tach read around 200. I thought whatever and kept driving and I noticed that the shift point were lower than normal, and my car normally shifts at 6000rpm at WOT and now the tach would read around 5K at WOT, but the MPH at which it shifts are the same. Right around 48 in first and 80 in second. Now it has got worse. When I'm idleing it says I am at 0rpm and when I let off the gas the tach drops really low, and it looks like the engine shut off, kinda like a hybrid. There is no mechanical or performance problems, so it's just the tach that is acting funny. What would cause this?? any ideas would be greatly appriciated. THX

that seems really strange. The 90-92 have the same brakes and the 93-94 have the same brakes. If anything I would get the one for 91 if they are cheaper. I think what they meen by 92-93 is models produced after a certin date in 92 are called 93 model year.

Brembo is top nitch and definetly not chinese so good choice. BTW where did you find this deal??

alive

I believe those fans are for the AC. My temp needle also sit right around 3 O'clock

ashore

Umm, trunk hinge wireing seems to be the only thing I can think of.

Is it hot out? If so it might be the little bit of grease on the back of the needle heating up and sticking. Try smacking the top of your dash right over the Tach with some firm pressure. You may want to also give it some throttle to raise the RPM's will you try this so the gauge has more pressure pushing it up. If it pops to life than that might be the culprit.

If none of the above is faulty it could be damaged or dirty MAF sensor. These can be cleaned but they’re delicate instruments so read up before jumping in.

Quick question, how does one go about "cleaning" a Karman Vortex MAF sensor? So long as there is no large objectec blocking air flow, the Karman Vortex should not be effected, right? The hot wire MAF sensor's can be cleaned by spraying special cleaner on the wire, but Karman Vortex reads pressure change against a pressure plate of sorts, so how does dirt affect that?

Most cheaper online rotors will work just fine. You'll save a few bucks, and as long as you don't drive like it's the daytona 500(i.e. NOT Like me :D ). OEM rotors from the dealer will set you back a pretty penny, but also come with the warm fuzzy feeling of quality and reliablity. Brembo direct replacement rotors will be even more expensive, but probably the best on the market. They'll last and stop hard. EBC also make a comparable product that is a bit cheaper and more resonable. Many people will say OEM is the way to go, if you don't want to have any worries shell out the extra dough for OEM.

If you want a little more sound than pop off the back two mufflers. Leave the resonators on that are behind them and you'll have a little rumble. This is my current set up mainly due to the fact that I destroyed the back two mufflers last time I crashed. Although I must admit I love it. It's not excessivly loud, but you can tell there is somethink lurking under the hood.

How much more will they charge you for the extra 300 mile battery? It says you only get the 160 mile battery with the base model. If you can really get 5-7 years like they say per battery, then it seems like electric cars are becoming more and more of a sustainable option. So long as a new battery doesn't run you $6K+ like most batteries of this type. BTW I think it looks more like a Maserati than an Aston. Never the less it's a stunningly good looking car.

WOW Lambo won!!!! I thought the NSX really pulled it back together for the last leg. It's a shame that cuda didn't finish any better. I really thought they deserved the win. I wander what Bill Wu does for a living? Check out the link for the lexus girls on bullrun.com There car info section say they have about 600WHP. Now that is what it would take to beat a lambo.

http://bullrun.com/user/4976

admeration

Deffinetly do more diegnosis before throwing parts at it. I too would suspect an ignition issue. If you haven't had a "Tune up" done(ie. plugs, wires, caps, and rotors) that would be my first guess because a 86,500 miles your about due. Not to mention you will need a timing belt soon if that hasn't been replaced.

You might want to check the trunk hinge wires. Pull the left side trunk hinge cover and take off any electrical tape and check every wire for cracks or splits. Some might even be brken inside the ensulation so make sure and feel all the wires. That is the only soultion I can think of if battery and alternator check out. Is your batter old by any chance. If it is going out I have heard they can cause crazy issues like this.

UMM PUKE!!!!! I thought my "custom" tri-tone color scheme was bad, but that just defaces any car, especially a LS.

out of curiosity, why use SC struts on an LS? Are you trying to improve handling? If so let me know how it works out. Thanks

Well done!! Let here some details. I can't wait to hear what was wrong.

no body

numero uno

It's pretty simple, yet hard to explain. It's near the passanger side ignition coil behind the plug wires that cross between the two distributer caps. You will need a deep well socket to get it out I believe it 3/4" or maybe 1/2". It will have a greenish clip on top of it, and should be goldish in color around the base I believe. You have to take off the passanger side coil to make enough room to wigle the plug wires around enough to get a socket on it. The manual says to drain coolant and disconect the water inlet housing, but that is a bit excessive. Just make sure and do it when your engine is COLD. You want as little pressure in the cooling system as possible if you don't drain the coolant. It sounds much harder than it is. It took me about 20 or so minutes to do. If your unsure of what your doing just take your time and go slow. If you have a buddy that knows a thing or two about cars, see if he can help you out. Good Luck BTW here is the link to all data that tells you the round about way to do it.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/AFI~V19914195~C41277~R0~OD~N/0/41746052/56620557/56620562/110767916/34853741/100411974/34856156/101367121/14585324/147387059

Here's a 155 options that fit your car!

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Lexus&autoModel=LS400&autoYear=1998&autoModClar=

You can use the filters on the left-hand side to SEARCH the results :chairshot:

The aftermarket pumps on ebay are a little sketchy, but if you get one form autozone or advance auto they may come with a warrentee. If I remember correctly Advance had one with a lifetime warentee for much less than the $500 OE pump.

I totally agree with curiousB. Spend much more time in diegnosis, and save much more in the end. Pulling the codes like lexls.com suggests is a good placce to start. However the coolant temp. sensor will not throw a code until it is completely dead, which never really happens. Mine never threw a code even when it had cut my mpg in half. Check all spark plug wires and make sure there is no crossed connecctions. With the car warmed up a bit, get out and look under the car and see if your catylitic converters are glowing. It should pretty noticable if they are. Does your car pull to one side or another? Go to a road with minimul traffic, and coast to a stop. Put it in park or nuetral set the E-brake. Get out and check to see if any rotors are overly hot. That should be about all the diegnosis you need to do. If all that comes back negative, I would go ahead and swap out the coolant temp sensor. For $30 it's not to rediculous, and its a simple job.