mburnickas
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Posts posted by mburnickas
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Usually, the warmer the environment, the higher the 'w' (weight) of the oil than should be used (?). The lower number is the flow cold and the higher number the resistance to heat. I've wondered if, in Florida, where I am, I should not use 10W40 instead of the 5W30 in my 66K mile RX300. Dealer says 5W30 is fine.
That is correct for dino but throw in a group 4/5 oil, warm/cold does not matter. Also I full synthetic can be a dino-craked oil (aka walfart has their own full synthetic.) Not the same here for $13.95 a gallon.
You can do two things here. trust a dealers most times know zero on oil. or in your case any and everything would work. I understand what the #'s mean but I can use a 15w-40 in Canada and be fine or a 0w-20 in Tx and befine (in real synthetic land).
I use 0w-20 in Texas and works just fine, based on results. If depends on what you want. One reason why I dislike Mobil is their really poor/rude customer service. Skip the Lexus filter. They are crap. Between those 2, use Mobil.
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I am thinking about getting this kit http://wolfgangcarcare.com/wg6500.html or something similar. I am new to detailing but now that i have a car worthy of detailing I want to make it a new hobby. the paint color is smokey granite mica and i want to find something that will keep it shining. any suggestions on a full product line i should use.. I was looking on autopia but there seems to be so many choices.. are there clearly any winning products or is it mostly just personal preference... money isnt really an option if the quality is better...
Hard to tell. Buy all and post back! LOL...wax etc are a funny thing.
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If you have a high milage car and get leaks from synthetic, you always had leaks to start. The dino just covered it up. The synthetic, general term, cleaned it out via the esters.
Napa, wix gold is a good filter for the price. If the price was over $3.25 each I would look for a better filter.
R&B
If you want to see the diff in filters (eff/cap) you NEED to do a UOA. ALso why even both if between 10w-30/40 in a "synethic". You are gaining zero I feel. In AZ it does not get that cold to switch these close in vis.
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If only everyone was as diligent and tuned in to their cars as you.
But we know that aint gonna happen. Most people don't know
they have a leak until they see fluid on their kitchen floor because
they've brought it in on the bottom of their shoes after stepping
in the pool in the garage.
My motto: FOOL PROOF SYSTEMS DON'T WORK BECAUSE THEY
DON'T TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE INGENUITY OF FOOLS.
good point..my bad
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Just curious to know what type of grade is good for warm weather? Also if someone could tell what exactly these grades are?
Also where is Bank 1 sensor located as i am getting code PL0171.
PL
Kind of a very general question to ask. What are you looking for. Price, performance, keeping engine clean, best mpg, shear stable, low/no ash, low HTHS.................. ?????
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I check fluids almost never. I check oil every 7,000 miles (60% of engine oil duration). I know how it runs. I check ATF fluids once per drain 40K (about 1 week after new fluid goes in). etc. I know how the car runs. Plus UOA's on all these fluids tell you light years ahead of any issue. I can see patterns long before fluid issues show anything. But YMMV.
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If there is material (aka metals) from the diff, it will sit in there. If you do not drain, it will just contaminate the other 65% of the fluid.
Why you are draining every 15K is beyond me. Also I would go at least 50K on the filter. The filters last a long time.
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That's not right. I get 26 mgp mix driving and I've gotten 28 mgp when I drive a round trip from Portland to Seattle.
Finally, somemone on my end....If I was getting those low mpg, I would never by a lexus.
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With 36k miles I would consider changing the transmission filter.
Why is that?
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I have an '03 ls430 with 36K and wondered if I should change it or not. I've never changed it in any other vehicle I've owned several of which went to 100K and over. I was told by a mechanic that if you don't do it early then you don't do it at all since it could cause problems after you change it.
It depends on the fluids type. Some push a "boilerplate" drain (aka time/miles)...That is guessing since ever car app is diff.
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If you currently do not have any oil leaks, you will be just fine switching to synthetic. Use 5W 30 (double check your owners manual as 10W 30 might be suggested for your climate) grade & a high quality oil filter such as Toyota.....stay clear of Fram.
Not starting again, but had you opened a TOYO filter? A china-mart filter is the same. I have had good UOA's with Fram on my bike. In fact, they are fine in my book for <7,500 drains. I am using a EaO now and will compare to the last 14 years UOA on it.
In FL, I would run something thinner since 0w-20 works just fine in the Lonestar state for me. Wake up at 4 am and it is 80 to 85...try that....
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Are you smoking something?
EPA rating for this car is 17 city / 24 Hwy.
I got about 20 mixed city / highway (50/50).
No on the smoke, now my older ES gets their hwy in the city? But my 98 is about the same rating wise and I get over 30+ mpg on hwy (easy) and 23 to 25 in city. In fact since 1-2008 most going to work is 23.5 to almost 26. I documented in since I have owned the car. In fact, 99% of the time AC on, in Houston traffic I do not go less then 21...
Just saying someting is wrong with this guys car and if the newer ES get worse then mine, you would not see me buying one. Hell, my wife kiddie van gets what you are with more weight more, etc. Just saying wow...
Plus I would also use some nice fuel adds in the fuel to clean the sys and get more mpg.
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mburnickas,
My financial advisor doesn't give a rat's-a$$ about my vehicles. She simply advises me on my financial investments and several stocks. Since one of my investment portfolios has "petroleum" in it, I was just making a joke.
My apologies if it went over your head.
But, the fact is, she did say that after reviewing my portfolio, she recommended "leaving the petroleum (oil & gas) the way it is"... just keep "buying gas and oil" :P .... get it?
I'm curious, which part of my post do you believe is "another lie"?
So they are this late in the game? Find a new advisor...I have some stock in mobil etc and oil is not it..In fact, it is not great and worth selling. I will take my 20% on other stocks.
Another lie was posted in reponse to your post..You have been riding me since my UOA. Get the pix yet? I TRY to stick to the topic at hand.
But if you are over 60+ years old, as you say, you are crazy for playing with stocks like this...
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My financial advisor recenty suggested that I buy all the gas and oil I can, to keep my portfolio growing, so I'm changing my oil and filters every 5K miles, whether it needs or not!! :P
Your post is incorrect since it suggests he knows about your car, not the case and it is another lie. But, that is great. I go, by informed people who state the treads and know my car/engines etc. Based on the #'s, he (mine) is correct. But do what you have done for 60+ years, in your case.
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If my 98 got 18 mpg, I would sell it. you should be getting over 23 min.
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In my diesel and my motorcycle, I do every other oil drain. Even one of my oil testing houses said use Amsoil SDF for two drain cycles....YMMV
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Not sure what you mean about "making a lesser fluid."
Can you elaborate?
It means Amsoil is better and you are making it less by adding T4 (less fluid)..I would take Amsoil ATF over T4 anyday.. Even Toyoat WS is not PAO/Ester based like Amsoil..
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Too many to list.
Home theater
Tractors
In-ground sprinkler (installs and design)
Lawn care
Car care
our dogs (show and titles)
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my internet has finally been turned on in my new apartment.... only took 3 friggin weeks... damn communists..... anyways i'm back.... did ya miss me????????? this is where you lie and say you did even if you didn't... :P
I see you are in TX too. I understand you post too much...LOL
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My neighbors goat also has a unique spray attachment
If I knew about the goat I would have saved about 21 g's :D
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yup..One also does not need to polish either. I use ONR all year long. Worked great for winters (salt, sand etc).
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According to the owners manual for the 97 ES, Dexron 3 is recommended, not Toyota 4 oil.
Bingo, Toyo 4 was not invented yet (at the time). It is only a few years old. You can use Amsoil ATF with toyo but no need to. You are making a lesser fluid.
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Lawn is one of my hobbies (above detailing I think). Spray is or seems like a lot but you do not use mucg. Most is 1.5 ounce per 1,000 ft. Plus easier to control and quicker uptake.
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or rubbing compound
2002 Ls 430 With Mobil 1
in 90 - 00 Lexus LS400
Posted
Here is one, why do you think oil is "dirty"? Since you like Toyo filters, maybe that is one reason (out of many) that is why your oil is getting blacker, if that is a bad thing let me know. Oil color means zero but use a better filter man. Toyo filter are about as good as Ghetto-marts. Serious pull them apart and look at them. 99% the same and one is 30+% cheaper.
Oil color is a funny thing. Do NOT go by color. Means nothing on oil longevity, perform etc. You are guessing going by color unless it is white. If you are not using UOA, there are other ways to "guess better" then just looking at "dirty" oil. Case in point, I have jet black oil perform great in UOA and very clear poorly.
Also I can have my Amsoil come out clear in 8,000 drains if I used these low drains. Does that mean my engine is clean, no. I can add LC20 to the oil and within 200 miles the oil is black. Does that mean it is bad? It is cleaning, function of Lc, but I do not know the oil is dirty etc since I have no clue on UOA. I know now my engine is as clean as I can get it. Some group 4/5 synthetic clean a little via there ester bases (redline, Amsoil, mobil) but it will take like forever to clean an entire engine. The % is too low to do much cleaning. It will clean but retain much better i feel.