sc_toy

It should say in your owners or service manual. Here's what's off the top of my head... 5k ($50) - change oil and filter (I prefer synthetic) - check all other fluid levels (trans, diff, coolant, fan, ps, pb, etc.) 25k ($150-200) - change air filter (only $20 CDN from toyota for the MKIV supra turbo) - I'd change trans fluid at this time (why not?) and clean trans filter - check sepentine belt 50k ($50+-) - flush and fill PS system, clean screen under solenoid (dex III) - flush and fill brakes with Ford Dot3 (550 deg) - flush and fill clutch if applicable (ford dot 3) - change diff fluid (redline, or amsoil, must be LSD specifc, not gearoil) 100k ($300-1000, diy or dealer) - change timing belt, water pump and thermostat - flush and fill with toyota red (long life) coolant - change spark plugs w/new denso units - change fuel filter Some of this might be overkill, and it might be way different that the service manual, but I didn't get 450,000 km out of my camry by accident. Prices are rough guesses. Obviously the 5 k service also falls at the same time as the 25 k service, which falls at the same time as the 50 k, etc etc. So the 50k service should cost about $300 in parts, the 100k service could be done for $600 or so if you DIY. But when you think that 100,000km costs about $10,000 in gas, and over that in insurance, and close to that in depreciation.... $600-1000 for maintenance is nothing to ensure you get to go another 100,000.... :D Aaron

Pretty cherry lookin. I would have liked to have got one like that. I'd make sure you go down and check it out before bidding though. I wouldn't want to spend that muchh money and not know exactly what I was getting myself into. I wish I could have got a 5 speed SC300 but we only got the 400 in Canada. Aaron

Believe it or not back in auto class in high school we used to run carbed cars right off the bottle. It would idle different on cleaner than on gas but oh well.... lexxus: age has nothing to do with it. I've had several toyotas as old as 22 years old (the car, not me) when I was driving them, and had nothing but good luck. Never an electrical problem..... the car was likely OVERBABIED. Rather than injector cleaner go drive the *BLEEP* out of it. The fogies may have run regular in it too, which should have triggered the knock sensors but if it was constantly running on the knock sensors then maybe the computer eventually had enough. The other thing is it may simply be your EFI relay and not the computer. It's not very often a Toyota ECU dies... Good luck, but don't buy a different car because lackluster mechanics say it's easier to work on. They're just inferior mechanics... hell I had an MR2 Supercharged that almost no one would work on, doesn't mean there was anything wrong with the car. I just learned and did everything myself. Aaron

Okay it's been my experience that for brakes Toyota is the way to go. Pads for my old '92 Camry were CHEAPER at Toyota than they were at the local auto parts store, rotors were slightly more however. Toyota uses semi-metallic pads, the local auto parts place used organic material. In the long run I think the toyota parts are much cheaper, if there's any way you can return these parts and go get new Toyota/Lexus stuff I would if I were you. At the very least get the front brakes switched to Toyota stuff. On another note anyone tried those eBay brembo rotors??? I'm contradicting myself here but I can get a pair of them for $185 CDN or whatever they want. I've heard of so many eBay scams though and I don't want cheap rotors on my car, will probably just go with stock Toyota stuff myself but I'm curious to see if anyone has used the brembos... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=7922451294 Thanks, Aaron

Hey, Well I'm half torn, if I go with the 315 cc min 3S-GE or 7M-GE injectors, and modify the stock MAF meter to bypass 25% more than stock (saw this at a supra meet, guy gutted a lexus MAF meter and put the contents into a 4" tube and fabbed up a variable slider plate for the idle bypass), I could theoretically get away with over 400 hp on the stock computer. That's the beauty of the stock MAF system, add more air and it adds more fuel. However, if I end up wanting to go over 500 hp, which I doubt but you never know, I'm going to use a lysholm blower which will support upwards of 25 psi, and a TEC 3 will allow me infinite control of the fuel. The reason I'd use a TEC over some of the others is that I've learned a lot about the TEC II over the years through a friend of mine. It would work with most of my stock sensors, and I believe only two sensors would need to be changed to GM units. It also supports many outputs for 2 stage nitrous oxide, boost control, water injection, etc. that can be triggered at various RPM or TPS readings AFAIK. I'm going to take the stock injection as far as I can get it, because up to that point it will be better than any aftermarket, but past a certain point I will have to go standalone. Cheers, Aaron

Did you use factory toyota pads and rotors? Did you use the shim kit? If not what parts did you use, you might be able to stop it with anti-squal but it sounds to me like something louder... I've never had factory yoda stuff do that though... Aaron

Hey all, I didn't see a section for pictures so I'll post this here. Sorry if it's in the wrong area. http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/671312/2 I just used the Mr. Clean autodry thing and borrowed the camera from work to get some pictures of her. Unfortunately some of the good ones turned out blurry cause I'm a newb at using this camera still. I tried to get some interesting lighting as the sun was setting. Also of note, the black centre section of my dash as compared to the wood grain on page 1. I ripped off the fake woodgrain cause it was terrible. I've still got a lot to do but I think it's looking a lot better than when I picked it up. Those are aftermarket tips too, just bolt on SS tips that are slightly smaller diameter than the stock ovals. IMHO they look much cleaner and nicer now, but not large and ricey. Anyway thanks for lookin' Aaron

11 pm, 6 lane highway, no cars around for several km. Got the SC400 up to 230 km/h (140 mph or so), I once had my MR2 Supercharged up to 240 km/h (redline in 5th) on a COLD canadian november night but it took a good 10 km to get going that fast. The SC400 took about 2-3km so it may have eventually gone faster than the MR2 but I'm getting older and not as brave/stupid. Aaron :chairshot:

Hey all, this is just a convo I'm having offline and I did a little research on tire prices to replace my wearing Kumhos so I thought I'd pass it along for anyone who was wondering... _____________________________________________________________ > Thanks for the reply. BTW, if you can fit a 275/40 in the rear, > you'll get better speedometer accuracy, but if you have 7" rims > all around, it may be too wide. > > Have you thought about getting 18" wheels? I'm thinking about > that when my tires wear out. Yeah I was wondering about width. The 275s should be 40mm wider than the 235s that are on it. So I'm trying to picture 20mm on either side of the rim. I doubt they'd balloon but yokohama says you need a 8-10" rim for a 275 methinks. I wouldn't mind 18" rims, to me that's the largest I'd ever put on my SC, but I've already got these rims and I really like how they look. If I can't fit a 270 on the back I'll just get 245/45 all around. What size rims have you got on there now? Also what car? If you've got a lexus you should check out us.lexusownersclub.com if you haven't already... there's a lot of newbies there but a couple of people with good info. Nothing like the old celica club though, that clubs full of good info as a lot of people track their cars. > Also, why do you want to want to switch the Kumho tires? Any > problems with them? Those are the ones that seemed least > expensive to me. Okay here are my thoughts... first a little background. I've owned Yokohama A509s (about 6 years ago), Yokohama AVS intermediates, Toyo Proxes T1-S, and now these Kumho Ecsta Supra 712s. The AVSi's had the highest overall dry grip. The A509s were good for straightline acceleration, but terrible in the wet. The T1-S were great in the dry, superb in the wet, but not as much dry traction as the AVSi. The kumhos are better than the A509 in the wet, and about the same in the dry, but is sub-par compared to the AVSi or T1-S in combined wet/dry traction. Here's a little price chart for the available 245/45R17s and their prices from tirerack... not all tires are listed here, just the ones I hear people mention frequently (the non-runflat options, runflats are about $50 more each for applicable tires.) [MAX PERFORMANCE] BFG G-force T/A KD - $206 Bridgestone Potenza S-03 - $213 Dunlop SP sport 9000 - $159 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3 - $187 Goodyear Eagle F1 supercar - $229 Kumho Ecsta MX - $129 Michelin Pilot Sport - $223 Yokohama AVS Sport - $152 ($225 at 1010tires.com) [uLTRA HIGH PERFORMANCE] Goodyear Eagle F1 GS - $192 Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 - $93 ($131 at 1010tires.com) Yokohama AVS ES100 - $116 From 1010tires.com Toyo Proxes T1-S - $185 (should be about $140-150 elsewhere) Okay with that knowledge I think I'm more inclined to go with the Yoko AVS sports or back to the Toyo Proxes T1-S... I have had good results with Yokohama before so I'm inclined to try them, they should have more dry grip than the Toyos, but the Toyos had such good wet traction they were a very confidence inspiring all around tire. 280 treadwear for the toyos (superior wet traction, good treadwear) 220 for the yoko AVS sport (superior dry traction, less treadwear) 280 for the yoko AVS ES100 (less wet and dry traction, good treadwear, lower price) It's a toss up, I still think I'm going to get the AVS sports when it comes down to it. Aaron

As far as I know a colder plug doesn't have anything to do with it's metal, it has everything to do with the insulator depth. You should be able to get almost and type of plug in a colder than stock heat range. Colder is only good if you're upping the boost, raising compression, etc. There's no benefit to running a colder plug on a stock engine. Also, I believe the main benefit to the iridium/platinum/etc. plugs is their longevity. Copper plugs produce a stronger spark under full load, hence the lean towards them in boosted engines. This is what I always thought, dunno if it's right though.

how so? Just that most of the guys at my strip that run slicks are down in the sub 13 second range. But who cares I guess, I'm not there to impress anyone! I'm not going to go as far as a CF hood, there's only so much that weight reduction will get me. If I were to drop a full 1000 pounds of the car I'd barely be running 14.0 flat and there's no way I'd drop that much weight and keep it a daily driver, I doubt you could drop that much weight as a dedicated race car. All I'm doing right now is having a little fun, seeing if I can hit 14's for $0 (or near $0). 450 crank HP would get me mid 12's with the weight being stock, so that's the power I gotta shoot for. Still in the design phase, and $$$ saving phase but I've got a good idea of what I need to get that kinda HP out of the 1UZ... Aaron

The only thing I would swap out the 1UZ-FE for would be the Toyota 5.0L V12, if I could get one over here. Man that'd be a one of a kind, I'd hate to have to get parts for it though... Aaron

Also, I was anti N20 for a long time, but seeing how costly it will be to get forced induction for this thing (no real room for turbos, maybe a big T88 in front of the engine but that's about it).... and how cheap a good nitrous oxide kit is, I may go for a 75 or 100 shot of n2o. How do you like your setup? Any idea how many runs you can get from a 10 pound bottle @ 75 hp??? In the long run it'll probably be cheaper and more useful for me to get a blower, and I miss the feeling of my old MR2 Supercharged that instant torque kicking you in the back. Anyway, cheers.....

Might look around for a pair of stock 16" SC or LS rims in the scrapyards. I should be able to buy some used race rubber around here for cheap too. It'll look funny having a car that can only run 14's on slicks but that's fine..... the future wants to see my car with a lysholm blower. :D

From what I've read you do NOT want to get rid of the intake between the AFM and T/B. The stock resonator makes more power than a straight pipe will. Leave it on.

Yeah all my 60 foots were over 2.2xx, no matter what I did I couldn't get them under. I did some runs with a burnout, some with just a tire scrubbing, and some just driving up to the box and running. A short burnout seems to clean the tires enough to help... What tires were you running? I'd like to get rid of these kumhos and get something grippy on the back. With 200 less pounds my 60 foot should have been better but this time I was spinning for probably the first 10 feet. I'd like to raise the stall speed on the convertor, and get a shift kit and tranny cooler. Methinks that'd get me below 14.999 with no other mods. Oh yeah temps were about 20 deg C (about 70 f). I tried icing the intake manifold but it ended up throwing a sensor off because I ran over 16 seconds... Anyway thanks for the help, I'm going to keep my eyes open for a set of supra seats (in tan leather if they came that way).... Cheers,

http://home.ica.net/poutanen/temp/timeslips.xls I've put my better runs into an Excel spreadsheet to disect the difference between runs. Interesting to note the best run on each day had the same 60 foot time, while at the 1/8th mile I was .1 seconds faster, and at the 1/4 I was .2 faster. Due to the weight of course. So any acceleration I lost with the weight on the first day must have been made up for with traction from the subs sitting over the rear axel. My average MPH was up by about 3 mph also, not sure if that was because of the intake snorkel or the weight difference. I really like the stock mufflers, so I'm thinking a true dual 2.25" mid-pipe (with H or X pipe) to replace the 3rd cat and resonators will be a nice mod. I've got a buddy that works with stainless steel all the time so for a case of beer I can get that pipe section made up (gotta get him to make flanges so I can swap over to the stock mid-pipe for emissions testing). I might cut two small holes into the inner wheel well that I can plug with rubber grommets. It's such a PITA to have to take of the wheel to get at those bolts on the right side of the light. Are those supra seats electric? If so do they plug into the SC harness? If not that's fine, I never adjust my seat anyway. I loved the mechanical seats in my MR2SC. Anyway, I might go back this wednesday and I'll report back then...

I wouldn't change the stock mufflers, they do a good job of keeping the noice down and are a pretty nice straight through design. I'm going to get a new midpipe section made (from the front cats the the rear mufflers), this will eliminate the 3rd cat, and the 2 resonators. I'm sure it'll be plenty loud for those wanting the sound of an aftermarket system, but the main this is it'll have all the performance gains any true cat-back will have, at a fraction of the cost. Obvously i'm going to track test various things, so we'll see. Maybe next week I'll do a couple runs with the mufflers removed, then a couple with the mid pipe removed (so that just the maniflds and cats are on the car)....

Nice time! The slips are at home and I'm at work, but I'm pretty sure my best 60 foot was just a touch over 2 seconds. I'll scan them all when I get home and I'm going to make a little page with the progress and what changes I've done to get each time, etc. Once I find the material I'm going to finish the BFI (don't like the acryilic I bought). And I may bring a buddy to watch my stuff so I can bring my jack, stands, etc and I'll just take my exhaust off after the cats. Any idea how much those supra seats weighed? The passenger seat from my car was 58 pounds (bathroom scale), and I imagine the drivers is likely closer to 70. The seats in my old MR2 were nice, leather and all, but they were mechanical and only weighted about 20 pounds each. Did you do any runs without the exhaust? I'm curious to see how much the exhaust weighs, and how much faster I can run with it off. I might have to go back next wednesday! :D

Okay new times... 15.230 15.237 several 15.3s and a couple higher than that Both the good runs were at 92-93 MPH, last time I was only doing 90.xx on my best run (the 15.420).... so again all I did was removed 200 pounds, bumped my front tire pressure up to 35 psi, and removed the snorkel from the intake box. I'm so close to a 14.99 that I want to see if I can do it without spending any money on the car. There's a litte more weight I can save, plus port matching, so I'm gonna try. anyone know what the entire exhaust from behind the cats, to the tips, weighs??? I'm going to get a lightweight battery too... Also gonna change my oil, it's getting old.

I'm gonna ad my $.02 here.... I started work on my BFI the other night. Went to home depot and bought a sheet of "acrylic crystal clear".... thought it would look neat being able to see the egg cups under it. Big mistake, the acrylic felt ver flexible and I thought it would be a good medium to work with, it just spider cracks all over the place. Useless stuff. I want to find that black textured stuff that buddy on planetsoarer.com used but I haven't been able to find it in Canada yet (haven't looked hard mind you). I'm still torn between using the front grill or one of the side grills myself. Seems to me thr fron offers a larger volume of air supply, and better water/debris catching pre-filter. Rather than lower the mounting points I may just cut a scoop out of the lower black plastic piece. I'm trying to figure out how to fully seal the intake from the engine side. There are several spots where it looks like I will need some high density foam cut to size, or some spots might be fillable with something else??? I took the snorkel off and my ECU had to relearn some of the lower maps because it was kinda bogging at low RPMs, it seems to have tuned itself better now and yesterday I actually got a solid squak out of the tires when it hit second. :) Methinks this engine is in good tune...

A/C solar sensor. Didn't know it had one until I checked the A/C error codes and came back with a low pressure and solar sensor code.... Aaron

When I said 12.5 front and 12 rear I was talking rim diameter, not width. Also your 13" front and rear is wrong wrong wrong. ;) http://www.toyota-f1.com/public/car/index.html I was mistaken, it's not 12.5 and 12. It's 13 and 12.5.... anyway, if larger profile tires were better handling why wouldn't the pinnacle of motorsports use them??? Now as you said, I went to http://www.hoosiertire.com/rrtire.htm..... Intersting that the road racing slicks are primarily sold in the 10" and 13" range, with a couple 15" and 16" thrown in there. I don't see any 18" tires in there but maybe I missed something. Up until only a couple years ago you basically couldn't buy race rubber larger than 15". Anyway, go to your local track and see what the event winners are running on. I highly doubt you'll see anyone running 17-18" rims and tires. It's just too large, you don't need them that big to clear your brakes, and all they add is weight. For competition I would want 16" rims (cause they'll clear the brakes on the SC) But anyway we're getting off topic here,

Hey, yeah that's what my numbers came up with also. Last time I ran I didn't get to the track until about 7:30 and it was a warm night, I pretty much ran the car right away. This time I want to get there earlier and let the car cool for a good hour or two beofre I run, my car is always so much faster in the morning. Not running slicks, just kumho ecsta supras, very slightly shorter than stock (235/45R17). Last time out I ran a 15.420 and a 15.428, and a couple 15.6s and one fluke 16.3! LOL Those times were with a brand new factory air filter. Not that it matters much but I run synthetic 5W-50 oil... Thanks for the input! Aaron

Not sure if any of you knew, but just for the hell of it I took my SC to the drags a couple weeks back and ran a couple 15.4s.... well this was good for me since my MR2SC only ran 15.6, but still I think this car can do better. So I've taken several things out of the car and weighed them. I also weighed the car before I went to the track last time and it weighed 3650 lb, I'll weight it again tomorrow before I go to verify the calcs I'm doing tonight..... that said here are the weights of what I took out... (weighed on the trusty bathroom scale! LOL) Spare tire - 50 pounds (taken out already last time I went) Rear seat back - 15 pounds rear seat bottom - 14 pounds all floor mats - 13 pounds (I had double mats in the front for some reason) passenger seat - 58 pounds my sub box w/ amps - 90 pounds!!! 2 laptops - 15 pounds So since the last time I was at the strip I've taken out ~205 pounds. My calculations say I *should* be able to run a 15.1 or so, but I'm going to let the car cool as much as possible and see if I can't get lucky and break into the 14 range. I won't be disapointed if I only run 15.1 but still.... lol There's still more weight reduction I'd like to do, remove the A/C system, get a lightweight battery, etc. Will post results tomorrow! Aaron