davidditt

I had all of these error codes. 1130 and 1135 usually where the first ones to pop up, then 0125 and misc. other codes at one time or another. My problem turned out to be the Bank 1, Sensor 1. The one you have to change from underneath. It was a very easy fix and only took 15 minutes or so. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the sensor, unscrewed it then took a coat hanger and pulled the sensor up through the left side of the engine so I could grab it with my left hand, reached around with my right hand and pushed the plug release, pulled with my left hand. Back under the car screwed the new one in and plugged it in. All my error codes have been gone for 1000 miles or so and the car runs infinitely better.

After all the help I've recieved maybe I can help a little. I have 189,000 miles on my RX300 and have been getting the p1130,p1135 error for about 60,000. The car seemed to run okay so I didn't worry about it. About 5,000 ago it started running a little rough and I started looking through this forum hoping for answers. From what I saw it was the rear Bank 1 Sensor 1 A/F. Seemed like it was a real problem to change so I didn't attempt it until it started runnning really badly. Push down on the gas, it seemed to slow down instead of speed up etc. Anyway it took me less time to change out the sensor than it did to jack up the car. Everyone seemed to have a real issue disconnecting the plug attached to the sensor without help or a wedged screw driver. I unscrewed the sensor from underneath, got a coat hanger with a hook on the end, reached in on the left side of the intake manifold, hooked the sensor and pulled it up to where my left hand could reach it. You can easily reach the plug on the right side of the intake, push down the plug realease, grap the sensor on the right side a pull. Anyway, hopefully this helps someone.

I had the same 0171 and cleaned then changed the MAF. Still had the exact problem. Also had 1130,1135, 1150, and 1155. It was running horribly and I decided to take it to the dealer. I was afraid I wouldn't make it because it was running so poorly so I thought maybe something was causing the plugs to foul, so I took one out to clean it. The gap seem way to big so I purchase the three front ones and replaced them because it was easy. The 0171 error is gone and it runs great. 1130,1150, 1135 and 1155 are still there but runs okay. I was just on the forum to see if I was man enought to change the back three plugs because I'm assuming they need to be changed. On that note will it damage anything to run different plugs in different degrees of wear?:

Well I guess it's time I actually fix this thing. Still getting the 0171, 1130,1150. I'm starting to think that it's the oxygen sensors. I hate to randomly replace them on a guess, or a least start with the ones most likly to fail. Also, by the way, I took off the hoses going to the Air intakes and the one closest to the front of the car has got a lot of black gunk in it. The side closest to the windshield wasn't nearly so bad. Don't know if that helps or offers any clues. I guess my question now is; should I start changing oxygen sensors and if so which one first? Also am I doing any damage by driving it running rough like this. Thanks again for any help.

Another piece of the puzzle. Seems like PO125 is now the first error code to come up. Don't think that one is supposed to make the engine run rough however. The coolant level was low but only by a quart or so. Anyhow, don't know if that helps.

thanks for the advice code 58. It seemed to check out okay but Autozone had the sensor for $69.00 so I thought I'd give it a try. Same code same running rough. PO171, sometimes 072, and still the 1130,1135,1150,1155. Any ideas? Thanks

Hey guys. A lot of discussion on the P0171 error and the MAF sensor, but before I go out and buy one I wanted to make sure as much as possible that I wasn't chasing another problem. My 1999 Lexus RX300 is running rough and missing out some and I'm getting P0171 error first, then 1130,1135,1150,1155 and sometimes if I let it go long enough the coil codes start, 301,302 etc. I cleaned the MAF sensor and it ran pretty well with no error code for an hour or so then started with the error codes and running rough again. Sure seems like the MAF sensor, but didn't want to invest in an MAF, then an O2 etc. if I should be doing something else. Thanks in advance.

Well I got my second blower control unit from the Junkyard today. Put it on and it works. I happy, even though it took two to get a good one. Still only $100.00 vs the several hundred for a new one. Problem with used parts, can end up chasing your tail.

From everything I've read it sure sounds like Toyota part #87165-2240. I'll probably order another one from the junk yard. Maybe the last one I bought was bad also, same year etc. maybe it's just time for them to go. At least I can spend $50 instead of 250 then at least if I have to buy a new part I'll know it's the right fix.

I had the old blower runs on high constantly problem, and thanks to the forum I found the Blower Control unit. I'm pretty good with electronics and I really hate to spend money when I don't have to, so I tried to fix the $267.00 unit. I had it pulled out of it's mount (where it gets the majority of its cooling) and left it out for a couple of days. Forgot that hot is always bad for electronics. It totally died, No blowing at all, I think because it overheated. So I called a junk yard and found one for $50.00. Installed it and it blew like crazy. Always on high, again. So now I wonder, did my junk yard unit have the same problem as my original unit or am I missing the problem completely. Now by the way, I notice that the blower runs on high but turns itself off after a few minutes. Hate to keep throwing good money after bad. Should I buy a new BCU or do we not think that's the problem. Thanks for any ideas. RX300 1999

I couldn't wait for my ebay parts so I went to the AutoZone this morning and bought their $79. coil. Put in on in the parking lot in about two minutes and it runs like a charm. The 1130 error still pops up: I'll start reading through threads and see what that's all about. Thanks so much once again. Fixing your car is better than....

I ordered from your ebay guy this morning. I think it was Ben Franklin that said "a penny saved is a penny earned".

I switched the #6 with the#4 and the error code went along with it. 306 to 304. By the way I could have looked forever and never found the spark plugs. Where's the distributer cap, and those things didn't look like any coil I'd ever seen before. I'm getting on ebay now and order a few.

Great, this helps a lot.

Mr Blk - Blk just wanted to let you know that since you've pointed me to the Coils I am looking thru other threads and I think I can figure it out. If not I'll beg for you're help again. Thanks

306 was the first code Blk on Blk then the 1130. I really appriciate the help. I've just recently moved from the midwest were I had my trusted mechanics. I don't mind at all paying for their expertise, but I hate getting ripped off and every time I've been to someone out here in LA I leave with that feeling. Anyway, does the 306 code give me a specific coil or is it a trial and error sort of thing?

Lexus RX300 1999 Well I bought my scanner and I'm getting a PO305PD, 306pd and an 1130pd. It's running really rough but it started all at once. Could it be spark plugs? I've got 160,000 miles and I honestly don't know if they have ever been changed. Bought the car at 95,000. It was running perfect, then reallyrough with no power. I've just looked for spark plugs, can't find any, how embarassing. Must be there somewhere, I'll keep looking.

Thanks. Better than the $100.00 Pep Boys wants to charge to us their unit.

My local AutoZone says they don't do the scans anymore. they did say they had a scanner that I could purchase. Any idea's what a decent scanner for personal use would cost. And any favorite models etc. Thanks

I did clean the iacv, it didn't make a difference. It idles okay but you can tell it's not hitting on all cylinders. Didn't check vacuum lines, any one in particular that I should look for? Also the check engine light is on and starts flashing when it starts running really bad. Not sure but I think flashing is not good. I went to AutoZone to see if they could check the codes for me but said that here in Cali. they don't do that sort of thing. Should I purchase a unit to check myself, and if so is there one you would recommend? Thanks a lot for the help. You need to go to a different AZ. They quit doing the check here in Cal. (probably because some lawyer got hungry and spoiled it for everyone),but unless they have changed, they will let you use the tool (in the parking lot) and then bring it in and they will do the print out for you. If you can't find one that will do that, there are others here that can advise you on a scanner to buy. I have one but it's probably more expensive than you would want to buy. Good Luck! Thanks a lot.

I did clean the iacv, it didn't make a difference. It idles okay but you can tell it's not hitting on all cylinders. Didn't check vacuum lines, any one in particular that I should look for? Also the check engine light is on and starts flashing when it starts running really bad. Not sure but I think flashing is not good. I went to AutoZone to see if they could check the codes for me but said that here in Cali. they don't do that sort of thing. Should I purchase a unit to check myself, and if so is there one you would recommend? Thanks a lot for the help.

Thanks so much for all the help. I've been afraid to work on any car since my first; a 1966 Mustang convertable with a sweet little 289. Things made sense back then none of this computer stuff, but with the help of this forum I've replaced my power antenna for $29, the starter for about $100, and the brakes for under $100. Anyhow new problem. Two years ago I had the old won't idle issue, cleaned the sensor with the help of the forum and things have been perfect until this morning. It seems to idle okay but it is running rough and missing out some. I tried cleaning the O2 sensor just in case and didn't seem to make a difference. It ran great yesterday and just happened all of the sudden.

I'll try the battery cable thing Mikey00. I can set the clock, it will change to say 10:12 as I've just done sitting here in the RX. It changes okay, the 2 dots flash like it's counting the seconds, but it stays on 10:12. As soon as I turn the engine off it goes back to 1:00. The battery cables seem to be clean and in good shape, so I'll try the jumper cable thing just to see what happens. Thanks a lot

Lenore, it was actually Sam's, the cheapest one they have. I never really thought about a battery doing anything but start the car. Interesting, but with all the computer stuff going on these days I can see voltage related things maybe being an issue . So the clock staying at 1:00 could be just its way of saying it doesn't like what it sees in the battery?