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steviej

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Everything posted by steviej

  1. you will not be disapponted with the Exaltos. I will keep you posted on their performance in snow. Supposedly we are in for a snowy winter, but I will believe it when I am shoveling it. steviej
  2. sounds very indicative of a dirty IACV (idle air control valve) which is a very common problem to the earlier ES's. Another common problem that will manifest itself with similar symptoms to yours is a damaged air intake tubing. This is the black accordian like tubing that goes from the air filter box to the throttle body. This plastic get brittle from the heat in the engine compartment and over time will develop cracks, breaks and holes. These openings let in more air after the MAF sensor so the signals to the ECU do not reflect the actual air content being mixed with the fuel. The result is an extremely poor running engine, if it is running at all. steviej
  3. There are hundreds of codes that anyone or number of sensors may have sent to the ECU that triggered the combination of the two indicator lights. In general the two lights on together mean the car is in safety mode or as we like to call it: "limp" mode. You won't know what the cause(s) is until you get the codes currently in the ECU read. Autozone does this for free. Have them pull the trouble codes then post them up here. steviej
  4. no attachments either time. steviej
  5. unfortunately WD-40 is not a lubricant. It is actually a solvent. It is understandable that the noise did not go away. Try, beleive it or not, Amor-All. works much better than WD-40 on squeky hinges and pivot points and doesn't evaporate as fast. Personally, I would try either Tri-Flo (a lubricant with Teflon in it) or good ole white lithium grease (comes in a tub and looks like clam dip) White lithium grease comes in a squirt can too. steviej
  6. I have seen some handsfree hookups that utilize an FM Modulator to transmit the audio through the car stereo. I cannot vouch for the quality. steviej
  7. Unfortunately, many people use the web site www.troublecodes.net/Lexus and post the code explanations from there here. For a long time, this site has indicated that P1155 was Bank 1 Sensor 1. So it is a common mistake. A while back, I notified that website of the misprint. They acknowledged that it is wrong and said misprints do happen as they post thousands of codes. The Lexus Factory Service Manual is the gold standard. P1155 is Bank 2 Sensor 1. I say move the intake inlet because on my 02 ES, my arm would not fit under it to get at the connector for the wire. You may have better results without moving the inlet. Both codes P1153 AND P1155 refer to Bank 2 Sensor 1, which is the sensor up front near the radiator. Maybe when you change out this A/F sensor, the P0125 will go away. It can happen. steviej
  8. this should be covered in the onwers manual. If you don't have one, you can go to www.Lexus.com and register as an owner. You will then be able to request a free owners manual and supplemantal serive manual for free. Also, at the top of this forum are some pinned threads. One of them is a link to the 2002 Owners manual which may be very close to yours. They are downloadable PDF files. steviej
  9. If you got codes P1153 & P1155 and you changed the Bank 1 Sensor 1 = you changed out the wrong A/F sensor. Codes P1155 and P1153 indicate a faulty A/F sensor at Bank 2 Sensor 1. This is the sensor that can be seen when standing in front of the car with the hood up. It is between the manifold and the cat on the bank of cylinder up front. Move the air intake inlet from the grill and it will be in plain sight. I can't explain code P0125 unless you hit a wire connected to the coolant sensor while you were changing out the sensor at B1S1. steviej
  10. You also cannot rotate side to side if you have directional tires. Many tire manufacturers are adopting more directional treads then unidirectional which makes the old school practice a required practice. steviej
  11. In general I usually run 4-5 lbs below the max listed on the sidewall of the tire. On my 16" Michies I go 4 lbs below max so I am riding at 32 psi. On my 18" GY Eagles I am 5 lbs below max so I am riding at 45 psi. both these levels give a smooth and quiet ride. steviej
  12. tim, does your beeping accompany the yellow light of a car with squiggley lines under it. If so that is the VSC indicator light....it has an audio warning to it too. I think the beeping we are discussing is different. steviej
  13. sounds like something is shorting out, most likely in the swicth. steviej
  14. If your OEM spoiler was from SpoilerDepot in Miami, which most of Lexus spoilers are, then read this. steviej
  15. may not be your mount, it may be the way you park. do you apply the e-brake before you put it in park? if not try this. When you come to a stop, apply the e-brake, THEN put the car in park. When you go to leave, step on the brake, put the car in drive and THEN release the e-brake and see if the clunk goes away. steviej
  16. stick with OEM in winter. The valeo type, contrary to manufacturer's claims, freeze worse than the traditional type and do not allow contact of the blade to the glass. steviej
  17. actaully the belts should be replaced at about 45k miles or every 5 years according to the "masters". They are only rubber and it tends to dry and crack over time especially with heat. Time is actually a bigger factor on rubber than usage in this case. Just inspect the back sides of the belts, if they are brittle or cracked then replace them. They ain't that bad in price. Don't use any belt dressings, as these are only a temporary fix and only mask the symptoms yet do nothing for the cause. The other possibiltiy is that a belt is loose. Start the car, and with out moving the car turn the steering wheel. If it yelps louder, then it is most likely the PS belt. If not, then the ALT/AC belt. However, my rule of thumb is if you replace one, then do the other. steviej
  18. SW, are you sure they balance, as in spin them on a machine, or do you just get a rotation? Balancing every 5000k miles is overkill in my mind, but if it is part of their bundle, then so be it. I do all my own oil changes, tranny drain and fills and tire rotations. I only have them rebalanced if they seem to shake or shimmy (and the balances are free under my tire care plan separate from Lexus). My car has only been to the dealer for the 30, 60 and soon to be 90k services minus the oil/filter, tranny fluid, air filter, cabin filter and PCV valve. Any other have the dealer do mostly cause I don't want to have to be responsible to dispose of it. I save a ton of money, I like doing it, I have the tools and the garage. For those who do not have the ability or tools or cannot, the dealership is a convenience, a service, and they dolt over you, plus you get a loaner. Jiffy Lube doesn't treat you that way. Toyota dealers may be able to do the same work, but it is not the same. It is all a trade off. steviej
  19. I had a set of Toyo Proxes FZ-4 (235/40-18) and if you Toyo tire is anything similar, then stay away. It will sound like and 18 wheeler by 15,000 miles. Can't speak to the Faulkens. Have you looked at the Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3? steviej
  20. yep, next to firewall, between cat and manifold.
  21. what kind of beeping? horn beeping, door open beeping, unlocking door beeping. help us out here. steviej
  22. I am currently riding around in a white 06 RX400h. Very very smooth and powerful ride. I like it very much except for a constant leather rubbing against plastic sound from the rear seat. Simple moving the seat forward a notch solved that. I am glad I didn't get the ES cause it is a possiblility to trade up. Now way I could go for the 400h unless I he the lottery. The vehicle is awesome in everyway, except price. It is the first hybrid I have ever driven and I am getting used to it. I miss reving the engine, very odd to not be able to do that and at times it sounds like I am driving a very big golf cart. oh well, I can dream. steviej
  23. use an easy-out. You will have to replace the bolt after that. Easy-outs can be found at sears and/or home depot. Or try banging the next largest size allen wrench into the hole, again, the bolt will have to be replaced. steviej
  24. When the Dodge Durango first came out it was plagued with sludge issues for the same reason.....infrequent oil changes. steviej
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